Early 5th Gen (2010, 2011, 2012, and 2013) to 2014+ 5th Gen Toyota 4Runner Front-End Conversion
This installation is going to be the same for all early generations:
- Trail Bumper # 52119-35914
- Trail Valance, Silver # 53901-35240
- Trail Valance, Black # 53901-35250
- Valance Retainers x13 # 75392-35220, NAPA # 665-5135 (Same as Fog Light)
- SR5 Bumper # 52119-35912
- Bumper Reinforcement # 52021-35140
- Reinforcement Extension, Left # 52026-60050
- Reinforcement Extension, Right # 52025-60050
- Energy Absorber # 52611-35040
- Headlight Right # 81130-35541, TYC # 20-9511-00-1
- Headlight Left # 81170-35571, TYC # 20-9512-00-1
- OE projectors and light pattern are better than TYC
- Headlight Grommet x2 # 90189-05142
- Can use NAPA # 665-1050 (nylon nut) and # 665-2196 (screws)
- Right # 52102-35100
- Left # 52103-35110
- Center # 52521-35060
- Right # 52115-35151
- Left # 52116-35151
Fog Light Assembly
- Right # 81210-12230
- Left # 81220-12230
Fog Light Bezel
- Right # 52127-35100
- Left # 52128-35080
- Fog Light Retainers x2 # 75392-35220, NAPA # 665-5135 (Current chrome strip has a few)
- Upper Grill # 53101-35080?? (Can come painted in factory colors)
- Lower Grill # 53112-35060
Parts you can modify instead of buy (See below for instructions how):
- Right # 53875-35150
- Left # 53876-35150
- 2 Wire Turn Socket # 90075-60028
- Or Dorman # 86424 (small spade terminals)
- Dorman # 02254 (3/4” bypass cap)
- Right # 53293-35020
- Left # 53294-35020
The 2014+ Front Bumper Reality
When looking for a 4Runner the 2014+ SR5/Trail front end always appealed to me. Unfortunately, the features I was looking for were only available on the Limited model which still did not have the front end I desired. Because money was a factor I ended up in a 2010 Limited that had everything I was looking for. Well, almost.
I still really liked the look of the 2014+. I came across a post of someone that had done a 2014+ swap and the thought that I could do this to mine took over. I started a parts list to figure out cost and as I started adding up everything I realized my dream would probably never come true.
Then one day while out wheeling with my family I came across a group of 5th gens. One of which had a full steel bumper so I asked: “what did you do with your old stuff?” When he replied “it’s just sitting in my garage, you want it?” my eyes lit up. My estimated budget was just cut in half and my dream could become a reality.
Whether you bought your 4Runner before 2014, or the SR5/Trail models didn’t have the features you wanted or your budget at the time just didn’t allow it, there is no denying the 2014+ front end (non-Limited) is the best looking and has the best potential to look even better.
Well, lust no more! In this article we will walk you through, step by step, how to swap your 2010-2013 to a 2014+. This write-up is not to achieve a factory OE finished product, simply the necessary parts and procedures needed to get the 2014+ to fit and look good. Along with a few budget saving options.
Buying Used Parts
Best advise to save money is “buy used”. A lot of people getting steel bumpers don’t care what happens to there old parts and you can pick them up cheap, or free! A full steel bumper requires you to remove pretty much everything from the headlights down.
If you bought all these parts new you would be over a grand so if you pay someone a couple hundred for them, and you are lucky enough to find the correct color bumper, you will save tons. Contact a few of your local off-road specialty shops that sell/install bumpers and tell them what you want to do and see if they have anyone getting a bumper soon.
Also, check Craigslist. You can find many parts on Craigslist in either new or near-new condition.
Bumper Swap Installation
For reference, it took me, by myself (taking notes and pictures) about 6 hours. Granted I had all the trim pieces (fogs and bezels, lower grill, trail valance) already on the bumper.
Once you have everything ready, just pick a day and make it happen.
Note: When referring to “bolts” (10 mm, 14mm), this is the size socket needed and not the actual size of the bolt. Please read all of the instructions before starting.
Make sure to keep track of the bolts as you’re pulling them out so you know where they go later.
Remove the radiator cover piece held in by 13 push pins. To remove push down the center of the pin. Pull up one at a time being careful not to drop any.
With a 10 mm socket remove the center bolt for the upper grill along with the 2 push Clips. These come up easy with a small screwdriver underneath.
With the same small screwdriver remove the four lower push Clips holding the bumper to the center bumper support.
Move over to the fenders and remove the three 10 mm bolts (per side) to the fender liner. Go underneath the 4Runner and remove the five 10 mm bolts on each side holding on the bumper.
From underneath pull the fender liner back enough that you can reach in and disconnect the fog lights and running lights.
If you’re running any aftermarket lights that were secured to the bumper you need to disconnect those as well.
With a larger screwdriver/ trim tool go back to each Fender and push the black plastic Clips off the fender. There are two on each side.
Before you pry the sides of the bumper off put something padded underneath in front of the bumper to catch it in case it falls off.
To remove the front bumper place a hand in between the fender liner and the bumper. Then pull the top towards the tire until it releases and then pull down slightly for the rest of it to come undone.
Set the bumper assembly aside, gently. You may be able to sell it.
Center bumper support
Next, remove the three 10 mm bolts holding on the center bumper support and set it aside.
Remove Side Plastics
Remove the two 10mm bolts on each side bumper retainer. Tilt forward slightly and with a small screwdriver push up on the bottom tab to release the clip.
Moving on to the headlights. Move aside the plastic cover on the side of both fenders to uncover the 10 mm bolt behind them. The other bolts are easy to spot.
Remove 2 Metal Bracket Bolts
On the bottom side of the headlight, there are two plastic Clips attached to metal brackets. These metal brackets have to be removed anyway so just unbolt the two 10 mm Bolts from the subframe and remove the whole assemblies as one.
If you are transferring any bulbs I suggest putting them aside to keep them safe. Or in the new housings.
Remove Plastic Cover
If you move the plastic cover that was hiding the 10 mm bolt holding in the headlight assembly you will see the headlight tab sits over a raised plastic ring, where the bolt went. You will need to lift that tab over that piece to be able to move the headlight assembly forward.
Gently move the headlight assembly forward so that you can disconnect the parking light on the side that you were unable to reach before.
Set the headlight assemblies aside.
Bumper support and splash pan
Removing the bumper support you will have to go back underneath and remove the three bolts with the 10mm holding on the splash pan to the brackets attached to the bumper support.
On the bumper support there are four 14 mm bolts on each mounting post holding it in place. You will need a breaker bar for these. There are catch tabs on this piece to prevent it from falling.
Bumper plastic trim pieces
Remove the two plastic trim pieces that are between the radiator and where the headlight assemblies were. Simply wiggle it forward. These can be modified to work if you want to save $150. Cut the top piece off and notch the top and bottom of the other mark. With a heat gun warm along the blue line area and bend towards the outside to about a 45-degree angle.
Now that you’ve removed everything it would be a good idea to clean it all off before you put on any of the new parts. I took this time to paint any parts that will be noticeable black.
2014+ Bumper Installation
Reconnecting Metal Bracket
Putting on the bracket that was attached to the bottom of the headlight assembly I had to ream out the bottom mounting hole, it was a little small for some reason.
Using the two bolts that came out, attach the brackets. Do not over tighten the bolts as they will break off. If this happens the center bolt that came off the center bumper support bracket is not reused and is the same size.
Mount the center bumper support bracket with the two outer 10 mm bolts.
Bumper beam and mounting brackets
If your bumper beam and the mounting brackets for it came separate, then mount the brackets first using the four old 14mm bolts (per side), then bolt on the bumper support beam with the three 14mm nuts (per side). Next put the Styrofoam piece into the bumper beam support. This goes in with the flat side up.
The wiring going down to the fog lights and the turn in the bumper will be Too Short if you leave them as is. you have to cut the harness, separate the turn signal wires and pull them up to the top.
Be careful not to cut any of the other wires. Rewrap the wires with electrical tape when you’re done.
Put your desired bulbs into new headlight assembly if you haven’t already. The low beam comes pre wired to a plug that you do not have. Simply unclip the connector, take off the housing cover, unclip it from the bulb, and pull out the grommet. Cut the wires at the grommet and pull the other side thru. Keep this wire harness for the next step. Put the grommet back in place.
The new headlights come with a three wire connector for the turn signals/running light. The current wiring only accommodates two so you have to buy the adapter to convert it over or make up a connector that utilizes all three terminals.
To do this take the removed wires from each headlight and using the connector that was on the outside of the housing, trim the lock tab back and remove the 2 tabs on either side. This allows it to plug into your existing plug and gives you 2 wires.
I attached two small female spade terminals to these, ran them thru a 3/4 rubber cap and attached them to the terminals inside the connector. Looking at the connector (2 on top 1 on bottom) I placed the black wire to the top left and the red to the top right.
The bottom connection will be wired for the running lights (daytime, if you do the switchback, led mod). To get power for this tap into the green wire going to the parking light (outer light) on each side. I put an inline spade connector in case I ever need to disconnect it later and wrapped it with the other wires going to the connector using electrical tape.
Mounting the Headlights
To mount the headlights, you will first need to mount the side bumper retainers. Line up the center piece and push it in place. Install the 10mm bolt on the tire side to secure it in place. The second bolt that came out of the original one can’t go in until you have the headlight in place.
To mount the headlight to the center support bracket you’ll need to put the headlight grommets in first. I used nylon nuts.
To install the headlights simply set them in place, keeping an eye on the fender side, and secure the mounting tab over the plastic ring on the fender.
Keep a hand on the headlight assembly and put the two 10mm top bolts back in but do not tighten just yet. The headlight assembly has a little plastic nipple that needs to line up and go into the side bumper retainer.
Once that is done you can put in the last bumper retainer bolt and then tighten the upper bolts. Last mounting point for the headlight is the screw that secures it to the bumper center bracket.
I suggest putting painters tape on the side closest to the fender liner so that you avoid any scratches or sharpie marks later. Also, put something underneath where the bumper is going to be sitting in case it slips before you have it secured.
Lift the center of the bumper up and over the center bracket. Line up the holes and using the four retainer Clips that came out, secure the bumper to the center bumper support.
Go To Each corner of the bumper and snap it into place. Remember to pull back on the top of the bumper corner like you did to remove to get it in place on the bumper retainer. Simply push the bumper in to lock in the other tabs.
Align the two tabs on either side with the bumper and slide the upper grill into place. On the back side there are four black plastic clips that also go through the top of the bumper, make sure those are in place as well. Install the two retainer Clips and one 10mm bolt on the top of the upper grill.
At this point you want to test fit everything and close the hood make sure clearances are proper.
Make sure you plug in your fog lights if you haven’t already.
Trimming the fender liners
Go underneath the vehicle and put in the three 10mm bolts that secure the splash guard to the bumper support. You can also put in the two 10mm bolts for the bumper to the bumper support along with the one for the bumper to support bracket on the driver’s side.
There are splash covers underneath that are bolted in on either side with three 10mm bolts. These pieces will not be used and need to be removed. Keep one of the bolts for later.
Fender liner cuts
Next, pull the fender liner up to the bumper and mark with a pen to show where you need to trim. Keep in mind that the fender liner goes inside the bumper so you’ll want to cut it about a 1/4” in from your line.
Do NOT cut all the way down
When you come to the first little lump in the plastic, cut straight down and out so that you can test fit the outside. You will come back to this after.
Two plastic fender liner clips
Before you put the fender liner back behind the lip of the bumper make sure to put on the two plastic clips (per side) that secure the fender liner to the bumper. New holes will have to be made into the fender liner to accommodate this new location.
Put in the top screw that holds the bumper to the bumper retainer. Next put in the other two screws that will hold the liner in place to the bumper. On the driver’s side the liner is two pieces that over lap.
You will need to secure those two pieces together with either a screw or rivet. You can use one of the bolts that came off the splash pan piece you removed earlier. It’s not a pointed screw so make a pilot hole.
Plastic Strip on driver side
On the driver side leave a strip of the flat plastic to secure to the hole on the bracket coming off the bumper beam. Trim the remainder of the fender liner to look clean. To prevent tire rub, on the strip of plastic you left make a new hole behind the current one about 1/2 past the step in the plastic.
Leave the same strip on the passenger side
This side does not have the same mounting point as the other side does so you’ll have to secure the plastic strip that you leave behind to the bolt for the bumper. Put the strip between the bracket and bumper then push it forward. Mark it with a pen then pull it down and drill a hole big enough for the strip to fit over the raised plastic on the bracket. Secure down the 10mm bolt.
When you have the fender liners in place push them back and forth to see if there is any rubbing on the bumper. Trim as needed.
Reinstall any lights or wiring you had from before. Before you install the radiator cover, make sure to readjust your headlights.
Reinstall the top radiator cover and shut the hood. You are done!