KC HiLites Under Hood Lights 5th Gen 4Runner

KC HiLites Cyclone LED Lights Overview & Install

KC HiLites Cyclone Under Hood LEDs – Step by Step Install

KC HiLiTES is a widely-trusted and highly depended upon brand when it comes to off-road lighting. KC HiLiTES offers a wide variety of lighting options but today we are talking about their Cyclone LED lights. This is an incredibly universal light that can be mounted almost anywhere. Use your imagination and get creative with the Cyclone LEDs on your 4Runner.

Plug-n-Play kits or single options

You can use these LEDs as rock lights, under hood lights (engine bay lights), interior lights, reverse lights and so much more. The Cyclone LEDs under hood lights can be purchased as a stand-alone light, or as a complete kit with single or dual light options.

KC HiLiTES make complete rock light kits for JKs but not for the 4Runner. If you want to use these lights as rock lights on your 4Runner, you can either order the JK kit and buy new mounting hardware, or piece it together on your own.

You also have plenty of options for colors. KC HiLiTES offers the Cyclones in clear, clear-diffused, green, blue, red, or amber.

The details

KC HiLites Cyclone LED Lights Overview on Parts

Package Contents

  • Two Cyclone LEDs
  • Complete Wiring
  • Waterproof Switch
  • Inline Fuse
  • Mounting Hardware
  • Zip ties
  • Wiring Loom

The 5W LED accessory light kit includes wiring, waterproof switch and one or two Cyclone LED lights, depending on the application. KC HiLiTES makes it easy to add extra utility lighting on your vehicle wherever you want.

The Cyclone offers a versatile flood light pattern and each 2.2” diameter light features 12 LEDs at 5W boasting 1100 lumens, and 516 Raw lumens. In a compact package, these LEDs offer an extremely low amperage draw and high output. KC HiLiTES also offer a 23-year warranty.

The Cyclone LEDs are made from diecast aluminum IP68 (Ingress Protection – a high of 6 is rated for solid material like dust and the 8 is rated for liquids) rated dust and waterproof housing. An IP68 rating is the highest water and dust resistant Ingress Protection rating you will find. To give you an idea, the iPhone 7 has an IP67 rating.

These LEDs can be easily attached anywhere with a Dzus clip or other readily available fasteners that can be purchased directly fromKC HiLiTES. You can also create your own or use the provided hardware in your kit.

The Cyclone LED kit ships ready to wire into any 6 to 16V power source.

Installation – Tool Check

KC highlights Cyclone Install 4Runner - Tools Needed

You don’t need much for this install. Basic shop tools will get the job done. Before the install, you may want to grab some extra zip ties and double-sided tape.

Installation Time: 30-45 Min.

  1. Cyclone Double Kit (pictured here): Check Today’s Price
  2. Drill with 1/8″ drill bit
  3. Socket wrench
  4. 10mm socket
  5. 12mm socket
  6. Tape Measure
  7. Sharpie
  8. Diagonal Cutting Pliers
  9. Rubber Pliers (optional)
  10. Double Sided Tape
  11. Electrical Tape
  12. Plastic Pry Tools

Step 1: Disconnect Ground Terminal

Step 1: Disconnect Ground Terminal

Step 2: Run Red/Black Wiring

Step 2: Run Wiring Harness

Start by running your wires through the engine bay weather stripping. There is a small gap that is perfect to run these wires through. You will eventually zip tie the wires to the hood on the driver side.

Step 3: Mounting the Cyclones

Step 3: Where to Mount Cyclones?

Figure out the best location for your 4Runner. Every set up is going to be different. On the 5th Gen 4Runner, I wanted to mount the cyclone LEDs on the lower section of the hood support ribs about 3.5″ down from the center hole.

Step 4: Mark Drill Location

Step 4: Mark Location

Step 5: 1/8″ Bit – Drill with protective back

Step 5: 1/8" Drill Bit with protective back

Take a 1/8″ drill bit and drill a hole through the hood support rib. Attach the cyclone LEDs using the supplied hardware. To prevent drilling straight through your hood use a strong piece of plastic or wood behind the hood support ribs when drilling. I used a plastic pry tool, this worked pretty well. The plastic pry tools are thin enough to fit between the hood support ribs and strong enough to stop the drill bit and prevent it from going through the hood.

Step 6: Drop washer and screw into Cyclone

Step 6: Drop spacer and screw into Cyclone

Step 7: Screw down Cyclone

Step 7: Screw down Cyclones

Step 8a: Run the wire into the Hood

Step 8: Run wire through Hood

Route the two red and black wires along the firewall towards the driver side windshield. On the 5th Gen 4Runner, there is an opening in between the black weather stripping and the firewall where you can fit the two pairs of wires.

Route your wires through this opening and start feeding the wires into the hood. Run the short wire up through the hood and let it hang on the driver side and then run the long cable over to the passenger side through the openings in the hood support ribs. 

Step 8b: Run the long wire through hood support ribs

Step 8b: Run the long wire through hood support ribs

Step 9: Mounting the Switch – 1/8″ Drill Bit

Step 9: Mounting the Switch 1/8" Drill Bit

Depending on your current wiring set up you will need to locate an area near the battery along the firewall. You will need to drill a 1/8″ hole in the firewall, then screw down the bracket. 

Step 10: Mount the Bracket

Step 9: Mounting the Bracket

Install the switch bracket using the supplied screw.

Step 11: Installing the Switch

Step 11: Installing the Switch 

Start by sliding the toggle switch up through the bracket. Then slide on the ON/OFF cover, then screw down the locking nut.

The directions recommend installing the switch with the wires pointing towards the battery. For my set up with the Xenon Depot HID wiring harness, the wires facing the cabin worked better for me.

Step 12: Rubber Pliers & Rubber Toggle Cover

Step 12: Rubber Pliers & Rubber Toggle Cover

I didn’t want to take any chance bending or stripping the tiny lock nut that comes with this kit. I used a pair of rubber pliers (soft touch pliers) to tighten the lock nut down. Then, screw down the rubber toggle switch cover. Your switch is ready to go.

Step 13: Double Sided Tape & Mounting the Fuse

Step 13: Double Sided Tape & Mounting the Fuse

You can mount the inline fuse wherever you see fit. I mounted the fuse on the actual fuse box next to the battery. This gave me a perfect amount of positive and negative wiring to connect to the battery.

Step 14: Loose Zip Ties & Plug in Wires

Step 14: Loose Zip Ties & Plug in Wires

Loosley zip-tie your wires together and connect the Cyclones to the black/red wiring.

Step 15a: Check Wire Fitment & Loom Wires

Step 15: Check Wire Fitment & Loom Wires

Once everything is wired up and finished you can use the supplied wiring loom to cover any exposed wires. 

Step 15b: Check Wire Fitment on Hood

Step 15b: Check Wire Fitment on Hood

Open and close your hood a few times to make sure all wires stay in place. I had to adjust the wires a few times to make sure the wires stayed in the exact same place. You dont want the wires too tight but you also dont want the wires hanging down to far to catch on something.

Step 16: Connect Negative & Positive Terminals

Step 16: Connect Negative & Positive Terminals

Once your Cyclone LED lights are mounted and wired you can then return to the battery where you will attach the black ground wire to the factory ground or on the battery. Then install the red power wire to the power positive side the battery.

Step 17: Flip the Switch!

Step 17: Flip the Switch!

KC HiLites Cyclone Under Hood LEDs – Final

These lights are seriously impressive. The perfect amount of light. The Cyclones are not too bright and obnoxious. They throw a very smooth floodlight pattern that covers the entire engine bay and some. These shots were taken about an hour after the sun went down.

From pitch black to a completely lit up engine bay in about 30 minutes.

Could not be happier with the results.

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Lauren
Lauren
3 years ago

What size fuse is used in these?

kikacrane
kikacrane
4 years ago

Shaf is right, very doable. Love the cyclones, easy install. I simply cut holes in my insulation and installed. Very clean.

John
John
5 years ago

I just installed these yesterday. Took about 30 minutes and awesome end results. I have a box of replacement plastic trim holders and was able to simply attach the light using a trim piece that holds the hood liner in place. Perfect fit with no drilling. The wire harness is sandwiched behind the liner.

Tim
Tim
4 years ago
Reply to  John

Im curious which plastic clips you used to secure the lights. I tried using one of the original liner clips (slightly modified) to secure the lights, but of course they were too short to clear the light and the liner and would not snap into place.

John
John
4 years ago
Reply to  Tim

I ordered a box of clips from amazon that had a variety of sizes and used a few of those where the factory clips were not adequate. The box I ordered was:
Manfiter 415 Pcs Car Retainer Clips and Push Rivet Pins Clips with Fastener Remover-18 Most Popular Sizes Auto Retainer Plastics Clips – Trim Panel Body Assortment Set for Ford GM Toyota Honda

James
James
5 years ago

Seems like it would be nice to have a lighted toggle switch. Whatya think? Trivia: We just bought a red ’17 4R SR5 4×4. Love it.

Ryan
Ryan
5 years ago

I think It’d be really cool to create a 3d printed housing that angles the light down when the hood is fully open

Maybe even print a shroud with a pivoting mount, so you can point it wherever you want.

Shaf
Shaf
5 years ago
Reply to  Ryan

Good thinking! I like that idea too.

Mike
Mike
5 years ago

Thanks for the quick response Brenan. My 2017 cam with an insulation panel clipped to the hood. I agree with you.. best to remove, install the light pods and cut holes and replace.

Mike O
Mike O
5 years ago

Really thorough explanation, thank you! Did you permanently remove the insulation under the hood or replace it after your install?

Kyle
Kyle
6 years ago

I bought a pair of these same diffused pattern lights at the Overland Expo last month for the same reason (plus I love buying from local AZ companies). I made my own circuitry instead of the kit given my on hand inventory of electrical supplies – but very similar set up… main difference is I reinstalled the hood insulation before screwing in the lights – I’m not trying to fry my paint on the hood anytime soon.

Joe Snegs
Joe Snegs
6 years ago

Nice work. Clean!

Pete
Pete
6 years ago

It looks like the light may shine in your eyes a bit when the hood is fully open. Do you find this to be a problem?

Shaf
Shaf
6 years ago

Very doable. Looks nice and thank you for all the details. BTW, why did you upgrade your stock battery?

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