Morimoto XB LED Headlights DIY Step-By-Step Install & Review For the 5th Gen 4Runner
So, you saved all of your pennies and finally decided to pick up a pair of the Morimoto XB headlights for your 4Runner. When they arrive, you tear open the giant Morimoto box with the headlight image printed directly on them (badass), remove the surprisingly large housings and take them to the garage to install. Rather than checking out the instructions, you grunt a few times and decide you’re going to wing it cause, hey, you’re handy.
Skip the manual, follow this guide.
15 minutes go by – you’ve got the hood open, you’re looking at all the factory connections and you’re like “hey, just maybe, I should at least use the install manual for ‘reference’.” You go back in the house, grab the box, find the pamphlet, open it, only to read: “For our most up-to-date install instructions, please visit Morimotohid.com.”
Well, that sucks.
You pull out your phone, type in the URL, and pull up the PDF instructions only to find that the document contains little information and a bunch of pictures…. Helpfully.
For me, this was probably one of the most annoying starts to an install. Have no fear though, I experienced it so you don’t have to. Below is a step-by-step to installing your Morimoto XB’s, so pay attention.
What’s in The Box:
- The Headlight Kit: Check Price
- Morimoto Pamphlet (1x)
- Morimoto XB Headlight Left (1x)
- Morimoto XB Headlight Right (1x)
- Daytime Running Lamp Splitter and Fuse Tap (1x)
- Socket Wrench with 10mm Socket (or 10mm Wrench) (1x)
- Flat Head Screw Driver (1x)
- Phillips Screw Driver (1x)
- Cable Ties
Removing Front Bumper
You’re going to need to gain access to the factory headlight housings.
To do this, you’ll need to remove the front bumper. This is not incredibly difficult but can, be slightly daunting to those doing it for the first time.
Step 1. Remove Plastic Radiator Sight Shield
The first thing you’ll need to do is pop the hood and remove the radiator sight shield which is the large plastic tray that extends the entire width of the engine bay. The shield is secured by circular plastic clips. Push down to on the clips to remove them.
Step 2. Disconnect Upper Grille
Once you have the radiator cover removed, you can now access the bolt and plastic clips that secure your upper grille.
Just behind the center of the upper grille assembly is a 10mm bolt that secures the upper grille to its bracket. Remove using the 10mm socket wrench. Also securing the upper grille is a series of plastic clips that you’ll need to remove. The ones we had required the use of a flat head screwdriver to pry the inner circle up before removing.
You may notice that at the base of the upper grille there are a few plastic clips that hold it to the lower grille and bumper.
You have two options here:
- Remove the upper grille from the lower
- Proceed with the upper still attached to the lower
We chose the latter because the grille clips can be annoying to loosen. Just keep in mind to get a hand on the upper grille when you’re removing the entire bumper so it doesn’t accidentally fall and hit the pavement (no… this didn’t happen… this time).
Step 3. Remove 10mm Bolts Securing Bumper & Fender Liners
Those with stock front bumper will need to remove three 10mm bolts from the wheel well and unclip the front bumper from two plastic push clips on each side. The underside of the bumper is held on with an additional six 10mm bolts that will need to be removed.
Note: Because we have our front bumper configured for the C4 Fabrication High Clearance additions for the LoPro Bumper, we didn’t have front fender liners and only had 2 bolts to remove on each wheel well.
Step 4. Disconnect Foglights
Reach in front of the fender liner to access the fog light. Disconnect the Fog lamp assembly to allow it to come off with the front bumper. The passenger side fog lamp is covered with a plastic cover that needs to be removed to access the fog light. The cover is held on with 2 plastic tabs that you can pop off with the help of a flat head screwdriver.
Note: Refer to Brenan’s LED Fog Light Install article for more reference photos.
Step 5. Remove Front Bumper
At this point, starting from the wheel well, start pulling the bumper toward you.
As you do this, you’ll release interior clips holding the bumper up. Repeat this motion and until the entire bumper comes loose (having a buddy helps here). Make sure to keep the upper grille from detaching from the lower grille as you’re removing the bumper. Place on a non-scratch surface or tarp and place it to the side.
Step 6. Disconnect Headlight Harnesses
Disconnect all factory harnesses from the headlight (with the exception of the side indicators as the wires are easier to access after you have removed the housing).
Step 7. Remove Headlight Housing
The headlight housing is secured with (x4) 10mm bolts/screws. There are three on top and one on the bottom. You can use the 10mm socket or Phillips head screwdriver to assist in removing the housing.
Step 8. Disconnect Turn Signal & Marking Light
While still holding the headlight housing, disconnect the harness to the turn signal and the marking light on the very outside of the headlight.
Step 9. Transfer Bumper Bracket from OEM Housing To Morimoto
The headlight has a black plastic bracket attached to the bottom. This is where the front bumper clips in and are secured. Using a Philips screwdriver, remove the bracket from both headlights and transfer over to the Morimoto’s.
Step 10. Route DRL Harness/Fuse Tap Across Front of Vehicle & Connect Fuse Tap
Take the supplied harness/fuse tap and route them from left to right. Across the front of the vehicle.
Connect to the fuse tap to the 10A Mirror Heater Circuit by removing the 10A fuse and replacing it with the tap. The Mirror Heater Fuse is Denoted by “10A MIR HTR” which is located near the top right of the fuse box if you’re standing by the Driver Side Fender.
Note: You will likely need to notch the Fuse box cover and run the tap through the new notch to properly close the fuse box.
Step 11. Configure Turn Signal
This part was slightly ambiguous on the Morimoto install instructions, so I’ll try to be more explicit.
You have the ability to select the turn signal mode on the XBs. The default configuration is the standard blink. If you’re wanting the extra Gucci sequential mode, you’ll have to disconnect the skinny green and skinny pink wires.
Yes, disconnect and leave… unconnected.
Step 12. Connect All Harnesses to New Headlights
The reassembly at this point is pretty much the reverse of the install. Connect all your harnesses back together and run some function tests.
Step 13. Install New Headlight & Secure with 10mm Bolts
Step 14. Put It All Back Together
Once you’ve got everything installed and tested, reverse the above steps to put everything back together.
Step 15. Adjusting Your Headlights
You will likely need to adjust your headlights to maximize your visibility. The Morimoto XB’s have both Horizontal and Vertical Adjustment wheels (which, for some reason, I forgot to photograph).
Are you wondering how to adjust your headlights, check this out. If you don’t want to check that out, I will give you the rundown.
Park 25ft from a wall or garage door and turn on your lights.
Morimoto suggests that the hotspots/center of the beams be the same distance apart horizontally as the lights are on the vehicle. Regarding height, the hotspots of the beam should be the same distance from the ground as the headlights are on the vehicle. You will need a screwdriver and measuring tape to adjust.
2015 limited 4 runner. how do I connect the front turn signals? the connectors do not match. i have hyper flash on the rear turn signals as a result. is there an adapter Im missing? thanks in advance
approximately how long did this take ? Also does everyone need the wire tap ? I’ve been reading some years/models don’t need the wire tap ?
Has anyone installed these and lost high beam function? 2021 4-Runner TRD Pro.
I have a 2021 trd-offroad and installed the 2021 trd harness to the lights and drivers side drl stays on even when car is off and locked. the high beams do not work on either side also.
Just finished installing them half an hour ago and i have the exact same problem on a 2021 trd pro with the adapter harness. Hope somebody can help us 🙂
@Jack — I’m experiencing this exact issue also. You find a fix?
I am also experiencing the exact same thing; any thoughts?
Yes, on passenger side. Low and high beams stopped functioning. DRL and turn signal functioned as intended.
I reached out to Morimoto, and we were able to warranty the headlight, with a refundable deposit. That way I was able to use the turn signals still.
It’s unfortunate, but Morimoto had wonderful customer service and made it happen quickly.
Hey! so we tried to install the morimoto xb headlights on my 2021 toyota 4runner TRD. seemed pretty straight forward with the plug and play. We started plugging up the harnesses and notice that one of them wouldn’t plug in. checked several times if they’re in the right connections and they are. any suggestions on how to fix this issue? am i missing a harness ? been trynna figure it out but i just can’t seem to find an answer considering that there isn’t supposed to be any additional mods . PLEASE HELPP!
i know for 2021 they changed the harness because 2021 comes with standard LED headlights.
Maybe the morimoto you got is for pre-2021 one.
do you have the TRD Pro or TRD offroad?
What brand are the ditch lights and the roof rack lights? I love the old school look but with LED.
I’m pretty sure if its amber its BajaDesigns lighting
It’s a shame they’re actually dimmer than a $7 H9 halogen bulb. Ah well, worth the instagram points.
Great write up! Watch for the flickering DRL however… on the top right corner after a month or so an led will flicker non stop. Mine started after 2 months. 3rd replacement set is now on.. they all do it unfortunately and I haven’t met a single person who hasn’t ended up with the issue. Unfortunately Morimoto has no fix for it and ever pair is affected so far.
I installed these on a 2017 SR5, love the way they look and the cool turn signals. But for the life of me I can’t get the DRL to work. I plugged the harness/fuse tap into the heated mirror slot and the DRL would flash when I first plugged them in put they would not come on with anything I tried. I called a few shops and even Morimoto themselves to ask for solutions, Morimoto wasn’t any help and the shops just advised that any 10A fuse location should work as long as it is something that doesn’t constantly pull from the battery when the runner is off. So I tried a different fuse location “A/C Comp” and it seemed to work…for awhile…then the battery died (not sure if because of this). Got a new battery and tried again with the heated mirror fuse location still with no luck for it to work. The headlights and turn signals work fine, it is just the DRL that I can’t seem to get to function.
Has anyone else experienced this or do you have recommendations on how to fix the DRL problem? I have to admit they said plug and play and I was confident in my skill level to do that but this one has had me stumped for about a year since I put them in.
Efi no.2 is a good spot to use however if you have the gen 2 lights I’ve read that the supplied 3A fuse(correct me if I’m wrong) is not enough to power the drl and you need to use two 10A in that fuse tap spot. Let me know if that works for you.
Just want to make sure I understand what you mean by “Efi no. 2” is that the same as “INJ”? I would rather have it hooked more to an ‘accessory’ type of port than the fuel injector, but I am still learning and I am open to knowledge 🙂
I will have to pick up a 10A fuse and give it a try, will update on how it goes.
Thanks for the info!
Jess B here (couldnt get my login to work)
Just wanted to see how the XB lights were doing?
I have the Gen 1 pair and I was able to get the DRLs running via the INJ port with two 10A fuses in the tap, but it made the 4runner fuel pump stop working while going up a hill in some bad weather…so that was not fun at all. I have also tried the heated mirror slot which cause the battery to die twice so I have not had good luck at all!
I have contacted Morimoto and they are going to send a replacement. Finally a pair of Gen 2s! I wanted to see if anyone has had any issues with them. Do they work in the heated mirror slot? Has anyone had their battery die due to this? What about the INJ slot, has anyone else had the fuel pump cut out due to the tap being in this slot? What fuses did you use in the fuse tap/harness? Curious before I get the Gen 2s installed if one slot over the other causes issues down the road.
Very nice looking ride, I own a Silver 2018 off road that I hope will be as nice looking as yours is. I am amazed it is a daily commuter, looks like it will work very well off road. I did not see an after install comment from you on whether you think the cost was worth the lights. Perhaps you would share some specifics on your ride, lift tires and rims and other mods. I am just starting out on my ride and love the look of yours.
Also as an aside ( a fellow photographer) I thought you could use a flash to brighten up some of your photos., they are a little dark, unless you have them a bit under exposed on purpose. No offense intended, just an observation.
Thanks for the article I found it well written and very informative. I am concerned about the cost and the simple fact that I am not very proficient at turning a wrench.
Thanks for the info. Very helpful!
Now that you have your primary lights sorted… may I suggest that you look into some auxiliary lighting.
It’s too darn bad we don’t have any emoticons to indicate how funny that was to me. Well played Space King.
Side note, Felix, your rig looks sic man!
Thanks Felix for taking the time out to demonstrate the install. Looks good. By the way I’ve read that the Morimotos have limited vision from the side, especially if in an area not well lit. If I’m not mistaken a reviewer (on another site) mentioned driving in the country and feared going over side curbs because he couldn’t see them in time. Another question – did you consider AlphaRex Pro or Nova series? Thanks!