Factory, TRD and Aftermarket 5th Gen 4Runner Wheels
5th Gen 4Runner Wheel Buyers Guide and Overview on Wheel Specs
We are going to break down a few things in this one. We are going to look at the specs of the TRD wheels, SR5 wheels, and Limited wheels. We are also going to break down a basic overview of bore size, offset, backspace, wheel weight, tires, and most of the basics when shopping for wheels.
We will also look at different options for aftermarket 5th Gen 4runner wheels.
2010-2013 SR5 4Runner Wheel Specs
- Bolt Pattern: 6×139.7mm(5.5″) or 6×5.5
- Wheel Size: 17×7″
- Wheel offset: +12
- Wheel backspace: 4.5″
2014-2019 SR5 4Runner Wheel Specs
- Bolt Pattern: 6×5.5
- Wheel Size: 17×7.5″
- Wheel offset: +15
- Wheel backspace: 4.5″
2014-2019 Limited 4Runner Wheel Specs
- Bolt Pattern: 6×5.5
- Wheel Size: 20×7″
- Wheel offset: +15
- Wheel backspace: 4.5″
TRD Pro SEMA Wheel Specs:
- Black: Check Price
- Metal Gray: Check Price
- Wheel Size: 17×7″
- Wheel Offset: +4
- Wheel Backspace: 4.5″
TRD Beadlock Wheels
- The 16″ Beadlocks: Check Today’s Price
- Wheel Size: 16×7.5″
- Wheel Offset: +10
- Wheel Backspace: 4.5″
Shopping for Wheels
- Bolt Pattern (5th Gen = 6×139.7mm(5.5″) or 6×5.5)
- Wheel Bore (5th Gen = 106mm – the size of the center hole on your wheel)
- Offset (-offset pushes the wheel out. +offset pushes wheel into the wheel well)
- Backspace (Similar to offset – the space between the center tire and inside wheel)
- Rating (Weight rating wheels were designed for)
- Weight (lb)
- Lug Type (tapered “conical” and radiused)
- LipSize (in)
5th Gen Hub Bore: 106.6mm
The hub bore is the large center hole machined into the wheel and mounts onto the hub of the wheel. Just because our bore is 106mm does not mean that aftermarket wheels with other sizes won’t fit. Aftermarket wheels with a bore of 108mm, for example, will fit a 106mm bore. Even wheels with a larger bore (110mm) will fit your hubs 106mm bore. Then comes hub centric and lug centric.
- Hub centric spacers: Do you need hub centric spacers to make up the difference? Yes and no. Some say yes and some say no and it usually depends on the size of the bore on your intended wheel.
- Lug centric: There are also lug centric wheels, which are most common on aftermarket wheels. Lug centric wheels are centered by the lug. If you have wheels that are lug centric, you often do not need hub centric spacers. It is important to note that you should always install lug centric wheels off the ground (on jack stands) where the wheel can center on its own.
The best thing to do is bring this up to your tire/wheel shop and hopefully, they will give you a good understanding. Also, it is not usually recommended to have hub centric and lug centric wheels as this will create unnecessary static loads on your wheel studs, however, some will argue the point.
Offset and Backspace
Low offset (measured by negative) pulls the wheel spokes into the wheel well creating more dish on the actual wheel. A negative offset will push your wheel out of the well. High offset (measured by positive) pushes the wheel spokes out towards the edge of the wheel creating no dish. A positive offset will pull your wheel into the well.
Backspace is the space between the inside edge of the wheel to the mounting surface. Less backspace pushes the wheel out of the wheel well. More backspace pulls your wheel into the well. In the 4Runner world, we usually look for a backspace of 5″ or less.
I bought a 17″ wheel with a negative offset (-6), but you can go as far as you want -10, -12. With -offset, this pushes the wheel out of the wheel well more, similar to wheel spacers.
Negative offset combined with less backspace provides a better look (in my opinion – a common goal is to push the wheel out). The lower the offset and the smaller the backspace, the further your wheels will stick out of your wheel well. Have you ever seen an F250 with wheels that stick out a foot past the body? Yeah, that is a lot of -offset and likely a small backspace.
Good visual article for understanding offset and backspace
TRD Wheels – Features and Benefits?
TRD SEMA and Beadlock wheels are designed for perfect braking, maximum stability on corners, excellent heat dissipation, all with being lightweight which allows for better performance. When you choose TRD Pro wheels, you are getting a master design and a commitment to quality that goes far beyond appearance.
Shot Cred: @Dumbo_T4R
TRD looks at all the design criteria for each vehicle that they design wheels for, and then they use state-of-the-art CAD design in order to design and manufacture the optimal wheel for that car/truck. In designing TRD wheels, they take into account the weight, offset, backspace, and even brakes to make sure that the wheel fits, performs reliably, and has the perfect finish. You really can’t go wrong with TRD wheels, these wheels fit, function and perform absolutely perfect for your body on frame SUV.
Weight Factors
Weight is always a big factor when looking into wheels. The TRD 17″ SEMA only weighs 25lbs, that’s pretty light. Even lighter is the 16″ Beadlock TRD wheels weighing in at 23.5lbs.
There are other aftermarket wheels that come in at 35+ pounds and some as high as 40 pounds. You want to stay away from anything over 30 pounds in my opinion. Weight is always a factor you should consider when it comes to wheels.
Tires and Wheels Together (Big Decision)
You want to consider which tire you are going to run alongside your chosen wheel. With the TRD 17″ SEMA wheel and the 16″ Beadlock style TRD wheels, you have different options for tires. Let’s take the TRD 17″ SEMA wheel for example and see what tire options we have. The larger in diameter the wheel gets, the more adjustments and lift you will need to make.
A common tire size for many aftermarket 17″ wheels is a large 32″ tire (285/70/17 – 32.71″). See the list below on whether or not this wheel will rub.
TRD 17″ SEMA Wheel/Tire Options
- 265/70/17 (Stock) (7-9″ Space Needed) – Won’t Rub
- 255/75/17 (6.5-8.5″ Space Needed) – Won’t Rub
- 270/70/17 (7-8.5″ Space Needed) – Won’t Rub
- 285/70/17 (7.5-9″ Space Needed) – Questionable (Body Mount Chop May be Needed)
- 305/65/17 (8.5-11″ Space Needed) – Will Rub – Adjustments/Mods Needed
- 255/80/17 (6.5-8.5″ Space Needed) – Will Rub – Adjustments/Mods Needed
- 305/70/17 (8-9.5″ Space Needed) – Will Rub – Adjustments/Mods Needed
- 285/75/17 (7.5-9.5″ Space Needed) – Will Rub – Adjustments/Mods Needed
- The complete overview of tire size and rubbing
Best Aftermarket Wheel Options
Take a look at the graphic of our favorite options for 5th Gen 4Runner wheels.
This is only my choice for what I would choose, and not the “best” options out there. Do your research and find what wheel fits your style best.
We had a set of ATX wheels on my Trail Edition. We replaced the ATX wheels due to an oxidation issue, so keep that in mind if you are looking into ATX wheels.
My Top pick for Aftermarket 4Runner Wheels
- Check out this updated list for 2019
- Stealth Custom Series Wheels
- Method Racing Wheels
- Relations Race Wheels (pretty impressive lineup)
- Fuel Wheels (Subtle, Flashy, Tribal Tattoos, they have it all)
- FN Wheels
- Icon Alloys
Deciding on the right set of wheels is important
The wheels you have on your 4Runner can make or break the appearance.
This is the hub (no pun intended) of your vehicles character. If you go to “BRO”, you might have some serious regrets. When we say BRO, we mean straight chrome and a 7″ deep dish wheel. At the same time, if you get the most basic wheels out there, that everyone has, what will be different about your 4Runner?
Wheel Options for 5th Gen 4Runner (6×139.7mm(5.5″) or 6×5.5 Bolt Pattern)
It is important to note our bolt pattern; 6×139.7mm (5.5″) or 6×5.5. You can’t just throw whatever wheel you think looks good on your 4Runner and call it a day. Different wheels are designed to fit different off-road vehicles per multiple specs.
When looking for a 5th Generation 4Runner wheel, you aren’t just looking at the actual wheel. You are looking at a handful of criteria. You need to start off by finding a wheel with our bolt pattern (that’s where I start).
Again, when shopping for wheels start here
- Bolt Pattern (5th Gen = 6×139.7mm(5.5″) or 6×5.5)
- Wheel Bore (5th Gen = 106mm – the size of the center hole on your wheel)
- Offset (-offset pushes the wheel out. +offset pushes wheel into the wheel well)
- Backspace (Similar to offset – the space between the center tire and inside wheel)
- Rating (Weight rating wheels were designed for)
- Weight (lb)
- Lug Type (tapered “conical” and radiused)
- LipSize (in)
Where to start?
- Bolt Pattern?
- Hub Centric or Lug Centric?
- What offset options does the wheel have?
- What backspace options does the wheel have?
- How much does it weigh?
I would start with bolt pattern, then move to wheel bore (are they hub centric or lug centric?) and then move to offset, and then backspace. For the 5th Gen 4Runner, there are a few aftermarket manufacturers of lug centric wheels (Stealth Custom Series, FN Wheels, TRD wheels, and other manufacturers). With that being said, it doesn’t much matter if you buy a set of wheels that are lug centric because that is how the lugs nuts center the wheel.
There are many different ways to make wheels. There are pros and cons to each type of wheel. Whether you are looking at steel wheels or alloy wheels, you want to note the difference and do your research.
Steel Wheels
Steel wheels are the wheels that come on most cars, however, the stock wheels on the 5th gen are aluminum. Steel is inexpensive to produce and they are very sturdy, which makes them the obvious choice for stock accessories on most cars. They aren’t really optimized for performance, but they perform well enough that most car owners wouldn’t really care.
Many people run steelies (steel wheels) and have no problems at all. They actually prefer steelies to allow wheels because it gives them more weight on sleet, snow, and ice. Which may very well be true, but I would personally have a lighter TRD wheel or many of the aftermarket brands mentioned above in the graphic.
Aluminum Alloy Wheels
Pictured above is a set of 20″ Fuel Vapor wheels on my girls 2016 5th Gen SR5 4Runner. You can read more about this wheel and tire set up here: Fuel Vapor Wheels & KO2 Tires. She wanted 20″ wheels so she got 20″ wheels. I recommended 17″ wheels, but she didn’t listen.
Aluminum alloy wheels are lightweight, they dissipate heat better, and they perform better during high-load cornering maneuvers. When you’re looking at performance, aluminum alloy wheels are often a better choice than steel wheels.
You can also get three kinds of alloy wheels: forged, cast, and billet.
Forged and cast wheels are both aluminum. The actual method for producing/ manufacturing these wheels is a little different.
Forged aluminum alloy wheels are stronger and in most cases offer a lower weight than cast alloy wheels. At the end of the day, there is not a huge difference between the two but some will argue the point.
Both forged and cast manufactured wheels are very similar and get the same job done.
Pacer 342B Black Daytona
Wheel Size: 17X8
Manufacturer Part #: 342B-8880
Bolt Pattern 8X6.50
Offset +00
Black finish with red and blue interior stripe
Steel wheel
Center cap not included
TPMS compatible
Just wanted to say thank you for compiling this info. Super helpful! I’m having a heck of a time finding wheel options. I’m going white so it’s not easy lol.
This is very helpful. But what about the tpms? Can we keep the oem and transfer them to the new wheels, or do we need a new set for the new wheels? And what about programming them? I will be changing wheels soon and wanna cover all the bases before going to the shop.
Ryan, as long as your wheel is TPMS compatible, you should have no issues transferring your factory sensors to your new wheels. However, considering the labor you’ll possibly pay at a tire shop to break own factory wheels, remove sensors, replace into new wheels and likely charge you labor and parts for a rebuild kit will be cost-prohibitive. You’d likely be better to get a quality aftermarket sensor and install to the wheels. I personally run MAX Sensor TPMS sensors, which are a perfect replacement for factory and program exactly the same as an OEM sensor.
2018 ORP. I opted for the Method MR305 wheels in bronze with black after-market lug nuts. The wheels are 17X8.5 6X5.5 with a 0mm offset/4.5 backspace. Although the hub bore is 106.5, they are considered lug-centric wheels as far as I know. The factory lug nuts had a flat seat and a narrow diameter shaft that engaged quite a bit of the stud. The new lug nuts are a simple tapered seat and do not engage anywhere near as much thread. This concerns me. Am I being paranoid?
Darrell, rule of thumb is to to have as much engagement as the diameter of the stud. In this case, you need 12mm of engagement. You should run an E.T. Acorn lug nut (E.T. – Extended Thread). This will give you the added thread engagement you need to be safe. I run RHI Automotive black chrome lugs on mine (2 year warranty on lugs too!)
Mayhem Wheels 8302 Scout
17×8.5 0mm offset / 4.75″ backspace 106mm centerbore
Matte Gold w/ Black Lip
RHI Automotive Black Chrome E.T. Acorn Lugs
MAX Sensor TPMS Sensors
285/70r17 Amp Terrain Pro A/T tires
With this wheel size/offset, little to no cutting is required with 3″ of lift.
What wheel size will fit a 2018 Toyota 4runner TRD-OR without rubbing???
So many sizes!! For us common off-road folk, you should check out this recent post on RRW wheels. These are a great option man.
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Your site is great. Thanks for all of this information. I’m looking to begin upgrading my 2018 SR5 4WD. A lift and wheels/tires are first. Can you tell me what kind of wheels those are on the charcoal 4Runner in your two photos on this post? I like those – understated and solid.
Thanks!
I believe they are Mayhem Wheels style names Scout or possibly RRws