KTJO 4×4 Power Folding Mirrors For The 5th Gen 4Runner: Convenience & Luxury Both On & Off-Road – Install & Review
Have you ever been up against a dirt or rock wall and had to pull your mirrors in? Maybe the trail became narrow, full of branches, and you wish your arms were long enough to fold both mirrors in instantly? What about those tight parking spots, or city parking in general? If you’ve ever walked out and found one of your side mirrors busted, it’s not a fun way to start the day.
Power folding mirrors are the perfect solution for these situations. Getting outside of your 4Runner just to push your mirrors in is always inconvenient. Adding power folding mirrors solves this problem with the press of a button.
KTJO 4×4’s switch and wiring have an OEM fit and finish inside the 4Runner. The only visible difference is a new button on your mirror control switch, which still maintains an OEM look and feel. In addition, you have the option to wire in an optional harness to fold and unfold the mirrors whenever the vehicle is locked and unlocked.
The power folding mirrors add a classy touch that can be used both on and off-road.
Find It Online:
- KTJO 4×4 Power Folding Mirrors Kit: Check Price
ABS & Metal Options
When I reference the construction, I am referring to what the actuator is made of. The actuator arm is pretty much the heart of the mirror. KTJO 4×4 power folding mirrors are offered in two kit options; one of ABS plastic construction and the other of metal. That is the only difference between the two.
Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) is commonly used in the automotive industry where tough, durable, and lightweight plastic is needed. It is known for its strength and ease of fabrication. This type of plastic can be found all over your 4Runner. You can find “ABS” stamped into many of the plastics used and shouldn’t worry about this material having issues or breaking down as power folding mirror actuators.
ABS is a strong plastic and your original mirror arms are ABS as well. This kit option also minimizes added weight. The only difference between the two kits is the actuator arm construction, and the weights between the two are negligible. I didn’t have a scale to go low enough for the weight, but if I was guessing, the difference is about a 1/2 pound.
In general, metals are usually going to be heavier, but stronger than plastic. For mirrors, it could be overkill. This kit is slightly heavier, but also pretty beefy.
The metal kit runs about $50 more than the plastic version. If the slightly heavier weight is no big deal and you want an actuator arm that is going to withstand anything, then metal might be for you. Otherwise, the ABS kit should be just fine.
Allow yourself a decent amount of time, at least an hour per mirror (including wiring). The process involves disassembling the door and completely taking the mirror apart. Once you get one mirror done, you will be able to install the kit on the other mirror much faster.
- Philips screwdriver
- Various flat-head screwdrivers
- Trim removal tool
Step 1. Roll Windows Down
This will greatly help with pulling the mirror off the door and reinstalling the door panel later.
Step 2. Disconnect The Battery
For the safety of you and your rig, disconnect the battery since you will be working with a lot of wiring.
Step 3. Disassemble Door
There are three plastic covers over your door panel screws. Remove the caps and screws accordingly with your Philips head screwdriver.
Remove Side Mirror Cover
There is also a plastic cap over the mirror mounting location that can be easily removed by pulling up from the forward end of the plastic.
Remove Door Panel
With all of this removed, you can now lift up the door panel from the speaker area. Here you will find a lip that makes it easy to pull up on, allowing the clips to separate from the door.
Disconnect Door Wire Harness
The bottom outer end of the door will have your door light. Go ahead and disconnect the wire harness now to avoid trouble when pulling the door panel later.
Now you can lift up on the door panel by grabbing the inner door grab handle. Doing so should allow you to hold the panel separately from the door. While holding the panel, disconnect the window and door lock control harness.
Unhook Door Handle Cables
Next, unhook the door handle cables. The cables can be separated by pushing the white and green clips out of their place and then manipulating the cable ball end out of its slot. The door panel should now be free.
Step 4. Remove The Mirror
This will be the harness that makes its connection closest to the mirror. It needs to be disassembled in order to feed the wiring through for breaking down the mirror.
Disconnect Connector Within Wire Harness
In order to do this, disconnect and separate the wire connections within the connector. This can either be done before removing the mirror or after. I did this step after, thinking it would be easier, but it wasn’t.
The connector has small clips on the inside and small tabs on the exterior. Using a small flat head screwdriver, you can carefully push in and pull the internal wire connections out.
Remove Side Mirror
Remove the red electrical tape from the mirror harness on the door side. Once complete, remove the three 10mm nuts from the mirror studs.
From here, the mirror can easily be removed by pulling gently from the exterior side of the door and pressing down on the one clip on the inside. Then, guide the wiring through the door frame. I had AVS vents that stick to the base of the mirror that required a bit more finesse trying my best not to rip them off completely.
In this is the case, just take your time during removal to separate the bottom portion of the vent from the mirror base.
Step 5. Mirror Disassembly
Remove the painted plastic portion of the mirror by pulling up the lip with a decent amount of force to release the clips.
Remove Rubber Gasket
Now, remove the rubber mounting gasket from the base of where the mirror mounts to the door. There is one small grommet that holds the gasket in place. The rest of the gasket just presses into place, so it should be free after removing the grommet.
Remove Plastic Trim
On the backside where the remainder of the forward-facing plastic trim is located, there are two screws and a couple of clips. Once free, you will need to disconnect your puddle light (if equipped).
Remove Turn Signal (If Applicable)
If equipped, the mirror turn signal is held in by two plastic tabs which can be easily removed using a flathead screwdriver, or just waiting until the mirror glass is removed and just pinching the tabs together.
Remove Lower Plastic Cover
The last plastic cover is located near the base of the mirror at the bottom where the hinge point is. To remove, I found it easiest to remove by grabbing from the base of the mirror and then pulling away.
Disconnect Wire Harnesses
Depending on your 4Runner’s trim level, the wiring inside the mirror will vary. Essentially, just disconnect all the wire harnesses so you can re-run the main wire harness through the new actuator arm. I had the following:
- Mirror heater
- Puddle Light
- Mirror Signal
- Mirror Signal in Glass
The mirror motor wiring will be the end of the wire run, and cannot be disconnected.
Remove Mirror Glass
I found this to be the easiest way to remove the mirror. From the backside of the glass, there are four clips that hold the glass to the mirror motor. Use your flat head to gently pry back one of the exposed clips, then gently pull out the glass from the front.
The remainder of the clips should release easily once one of them is undone.
Remove Mirror Adjustment Motor
The remaining screws hold on the mirror adjustment motor and the arm to the mirror frame.
Once removed, pull the wiring through and out of the mirror frame.
Use A Clamp To Remove Actuator Arm Plate
This part was a little tricky. Using a 19mm socket and a clamp, I could press the cammed plate against the spring. Then, using a ratchet, rotate the plate until the cam is able to be free from the base of the mirror arm.
Next, release the clamp. This can take a couple of tries to make everything line up correctly. Once the plate and spring come out, the arm should be free from the mirror base.
Remove Last Two Screws
Last, there are two screws that were blocked by the mirror base. Remove those two screws, then slide the mirror arm out of the plastic guides.
The mirror arm should be free from the remainder of the mirror components.
Step 6. Reassemble Mirror With KTJO 4×4 Actuator
Whether you opted for metal or plastic, the installation will be exactly the same. The new actuator arm had all the new hardware pre-installed in the locations so you’ll need to first uninstall all of it.
Reinstall Top Mounting Screws
Slide the new actuator arm into the plastic grooves so that the new screw holes line up. Run the mirror motor and associated wiring through the center hole of the frame. Once all are lined up, install all four screws.
Reinstall Lower Mount Screws
At the base of the actuator arm, there will be two more screws that need to be installed. The three screw locations that are recessed in the arm will go into the base of the mirror where you had used the clamp earlier.
The design of the screw locations and the arm will fall into place in the mirror base for an exact fit. You will know when it’s in place correctly once it feels locked in. Go ahead and install the three screws now. These screws will be the ones included in a small baggie within the kit.
Install New Wire Harness
The included harness in the kit breaks down into sections, which makes installation easy. The section that connects to the actuator in the arm will have a rubber seal at the end. Make sure to use the shorter of the two harnesses for your driver’s side, and the longer one for your passenger side.
Connect these now and run the main mirror harness through the center hole in the actuator arm. Follow the main harness and push the new actuator harness through with it.
Route New Wire Harness
Pull enough wiring through the hole to give you a better working space with the rest of the installation.
The mirror signal, if equipped, should just clip in relatively gently. The mirror glass will need to line up with the clips on the mirror motor. Give the mirror a firm press in the center to allow all four clips to engage. Do not use excessive force for obvious reasons!
With both items installed, re-connect the associated wiring for the signal and the mirror.
Reconnect All Wire Harnesses
Before installing the large forward-facing plastic section on the back of the mirror, reconnect the harness for your puddle light (if equipped). Afterwards, press the clips into place then install the two screws at the top of the plastic cover.
Next, make sure your wire harnesses are run through and are relatively taut. This will ensure you have enough wire to reconnect the main mirror harness.
Reinstall Lower Mirror Plastic
Install the bottom mirror base plastic cap, it will only clip in correctly if the wires are in the groove provided properly.
Next, install the painted top portion of the mirror, this should just clip in quickly with a little bit of pressure.
Route Wires Through Door Mount
Lastly, run the harnesses through the grooves in the base of the mirror where it mounts to the door. Insert the wires through the rubber and plastic mounting gasket, and press the gasket in place up against the mirror.
Reinstall Rubber Gasket
With the wires in their groove and gasket sitting flush, install the small plastic grommet in the corner. You are now ready to install the mirror on the door.
Step 7. Mirror Installation
Now that you have your mirror re-built, place it up to the door mounting location and run the wires through the center hole. Once everything has made it through, guide the mirror mounting studs through the door.
There is also one plastic clip that helps hold the mirror to the door. Don’t forget to reinstall the nuts for the mirror mounting studs.
Press the previously removed internal connectors back into their grooves in the larger connector for the mirror harness. If you don’t have enough slack in the wire, you might have to adjust by pulling the mirror off again and pulling plastic covers to access the harness to make your adjustment.
Step 8. Route Actuator Wiring To Interior
This is done by running the small actuator harness through the door’s rubber wire channel.
There are two 10mm bolts that hold the wire bundle flush to the door. Remove these bolts to gain easy access to the door channel/passage.
Feed the actuator harness into the door channel and grab it from the other side by pulling off the rubber end where it connects to the vehicle frame.
Doing this will make it easier to push the wiring through into the cabin near the lower fuse box. Removing the lower left kick panel plastic will also help in retrieving the harness.
Once the harness has been pushed through, pull the remainder of the wiring and try to organize it.
Step 9. Install Door Lock Control Harness (Optional)
This harness will fold and unfold the mirrors when you unlock and lock the vehicle.
I say this is optional because it’s not required in order to have normal function over your mirrors. If you want the mirrors to move only when you press the button on the switch, then leave the harness disconnected and tuck it away somewhere.
You can also install this harness and manually turn off this feature by pressing the “Fold” button on the switch prior to leaving the vehicle. If you don’t want to have to worry about manually disabling this feature then leave it disconnected.
If you opt out of running this harness, tighten down the harness bundle that was loosened with the two 10mm bolts, and reinstall the rubber channel to the vehicle frame.
Installing The Harness
While the rubber channel is still disconnected and the harness is unbolted, run the wiring through the same area that the actuator wiring was run through. You might have to get creative. I was able to fish the wiring through with two skinny zip ties.
Once pulled through the channel, run the wiring all the way over to where the door actually locks to the frame of the vehicle. Here you will find a recessed connector in the door that is an exact fit for the door lock control harness. Pull out the original connector and insert it into the female end of the new harness. Then, insert the male end of the new harness into the original connection point for the door lock control.
When finished, tighten down the harness bundle that was loosened with the two 10mm bolts, and reinstall the rubber channel to the vehicle frame.
Step 10. Install New Switch & Wire Harness
There is quite a bit going on with all the connections and wires. The above photo should clear up any confusion.
Start by removing the small section of the dash panel that is to the left of the steering wheel. It can be easily removed by prying with light to moderate force grabbing from the steering wheel side and pulling outward.
The panel is held in by a couple of softer-style clips. Remove the wire connection and then the old switch from two clips on either side of the base.
Install the new switch by sliding it into place. Next, connect the factory wire harness to the female side of the kit harness and the kit’s male connection to the new switch. After installing the switches harness, organize the excess wire as best you can.
Step 11. Connect The Control Box & Organize The Wiring
Plug in the control box to the harness that ends in one connection. Then, try and organize the wiring the best you can. The control box can be mounted with the double-sided 3M tape included with the kit.
Step 12: Connect Add A Fuse
This add-a-fuse can go to any ACC-powered circuit on your fuse panel. If you are unsure, you can check by using a multi-meter and turning the key over to ACC. I ended up going with the “OBD 7.5A” circuit.
With an add-a-fuse, the top fuse is for the original circuit protection. The bottom fuse where the wire runs to the new circuit. This means whatever fuse you replace in your fuse panel needs to go to the “Original Circuit” location on the tap. My fuse tap came with two 10amp fuses already installed.
If the fuse is rated too low, then you might pre-maturely blow a fuse. And if it was too high, you might damage the circuit.
Step 13: Run Passenger Side Harness
Run the longer bundled wire harness for the passenger side mirror actuator to the other side of the cabin by using the small passage to the right of the gas pedal. Pull out the plastic cover to remove it. This can be done on both sides of the lower console in order to route the wiring through.
From here, you would do the same thing you completed on the driver’s side utilizing the door channel, all the way up to the mirror.
The only difference for the passenger side would be you don’t have to run a door lock control harness.
Overall, I am very pleased with the kit; fom the construction of the product, to how integrated and plug-and-play everything is, it fit the bill. I really have an appreciation for kits that give you new features with an OEM look, especially one that doesn’t require wire splicing. This kit in particular is fantastic.
I’ve had people clip my mirrors in parking lots, tree branches press them in, and even almost smashed one on a dirt wall. All of these scenarios are now easily avoidable.
Personally, I would rather have control over the mirrors only by the press of the button on the dash. I ran them without the door lock control harness for a bit and to me, it’s about everything I wanted. I now have the harness connected and I have been testing the unlock/lock functionality.
The function is pretty fancy and is one step further on the path to total convenience. If your 4Runner is your daily driver, and you frequent tight parking spaces, then take the extra time to connect this harness.
If you are in the market for adding some modern tech to your ride and want added convenience, the KTJO 4×4 power folding mirror kit is a great buy.