Introducing The MEGA-LiFe Battery: An Ultra Light-Weight Lithium-Ion Battery – Product Overview, Impressions & Trail Review
As a self-proclaimed “overlander”, I am always looking for ways to improve my rig to better suit my needs and solve problems that I’ve encountered on the trail. In other words, I create problems for myself by adding more gear and then have to look for ways to fix them.
One perfect example to illustrate this “bad habit” is the overnight consumption of electricity. I keep my IceCo JP42 refrigerator in the back of my rig permanently and have been spoiled by it. When I drive the 4Runner to work, the fridge is always running and stocked. To power the fridge while the vehicle is not on, I use a Baldr 500W Portable Power Station. At home, I run an extra-long extension cord to both charge the Baldr and power the fridge.
I could just ditch the fridge and buy cold drinks, but did I mention that I am a self-proclaimed overlander? So, taking out the fridge was not going to work.
The process of plugging everything in at night worked fine for a while until I started tripping myself (and my landlord) several times. That’s when I began searching for a more permanent solution and came across MEGA-LiFe batteries.
Find It Online:
- MEGA-LiFe Direct: Check Price
MEGA-LiFe Battery Review
The Possible Solutions
When I started my search for an upgraded battery option, I had a few factors to consider:
- Battery life – I prefer a system that I can just set and forget for a while.
- Weight – I didn’t want to upgrade my suspension as a result.
- Cost – I didn’t want to break the bank.
- Easy to install – I work at a shop and my specialty is electrical wiring. The last thing I want to do is to spend hours on this with my personal vehicle.
- Easy to use – I need to be able to start my vehicle without using a jumper.
There are a few tried and true solutions that are readily available for someone looking to upgrade their electrical system. However, they did not fit the bill for me due to the following reasons:
- Bigger Battery
- I will still need to use a jumper if the battery is dead
- Battery box modifications are required.
- Limited battery lifespan
- Dual Battery
- Extra weight
- Long installation time
- Limited battery lifespan
Then, I stumbled upon MEGA-LiFe batteries, which tick most of the boxes I stated earlier:
- A longer lifespan compared to traditional batteries
- Lightweight
- Higher charge capacity
- Built-in reserve bank to start the vehicle
What is MEGA-LiFe?
The ‘LiFe’ in MEGA·LiFe batteries refers to the Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) chemistry used. LiFePO4 or LFP batteries retain all the benefits of a conventional lithium battery but are significantly safer and are not prone to the overheating and explosive issues found in other chemistries (LIPO or lithium polymer chemistry found in mobile phones for example). MegaLifeBattery.com
MEGA-LiFe is the result of a collaboration between BuddyClub (a Japanese racecar parts manufacturer) and Australian engineering firm Nine-W. In the beginning, MEGA-LiFe was developed for racecars for its lightweight and durability. Now, it can be found in all kinds of vehicle applications including motorcycles, streetcars, off-road rigs, and even boats.
I chose MEGA-LiFe for several reasons:
- If it is good enough to be on trophy-winning racecars, then it will be more than enough for my overland rig
- Growing up under Japanese cultural influence, I know Japanese products are reliable. I mean, look at the 4Runner!
- One-touch emergency reserve bank means that I do not need to use a jumper to start my rig should the battery die on me
- Note: Some other brands offer similar functionality with a remote switch. However, a remote switch can fail due to, ironically, a failed remote battery, and render the entire system useless.
- Lightweight – Only 16lbs!
- 15-minute charge time from completely drained to full compared to 4-6 hours with regular batteries
- 5-10 years of battery life compared to 1-3 years with regular batteries
- Built-in Battery Management System with short circuit protection
- Waterproof and shockproof
Of course, not all products are perfect, and there is one glaring issue with this one; cost. A regular battery can cost anywhere between $80 to $300, whereas the MEGA-LiFe is $799. However, the long-term benefit outweighs the cost for me.
Take Optima Red Top for example, which costs about $260 at the time of writing. It will cost me about $780 if I replace it every three years in a 10-year span. For $20 more, I can have an over-engineered battery that can handle everything I throw at it. Plus, it can self-revive if I accidentally drain it. That is $20 well spent!
Initial Impressions
Each battery comes wrapped in protective foam sheets in the box and is held in place by more foam blocks. Overpackaged? Yes, but that’s a good thing because this shows that each battery is thoroughly protected during storage and transit.
In addition, I couldn’t believe how lightweight the battery actually was. I read that it was light, but I underestimated the real-world weight savings. The group 24-sized MEGA-LiFe weighs in at around 16 lbs, while a regular group 24-sized battery can weigh anywhere between 43-57 lbs. That is about 1/3 of the original weight!
Installation
Installation of the battery is the easiest thing to do on the 4Runner. Below is a list of things needed to install this battery.
- 10mm socket or wrench
- Towel and rubber band/ zip-tie
- A friend (if you want to do it my way)
I chose to leave my vehicle running while swapping out the battery since I track my maintenance through mileage recorded in Trip B and my per tank mileage through Trip A. If I turn off the vehicle and unplug the battery, I lose all of that plus my stored radio stations (and my navigation settings as well).
Important: Be incredibly careful if you choose to do it this way. If you accidentally touch the live (red) cable with the body of the vehicle or the ground (black) cable, you may do irreversible damage to your vehicle. I will not be held responsible if you choose to do it this way.
Step 1. Uninstall Original Battery
I had a friend help me during the battery swap, and it made the complete process a lot easier. Start by loosening the 10mm nuts holding the J-hooks that secure your battery tie-down and put them aside. Next, remove the J-hook and the tie-down. Loosen the 10mm nut securing the live cable terminal to the battery and detach the cable from the battery. Wrap a towel around the terminal and secure it with a rubber band or zip tie. Repeat the same steps for the ground cable.
Step 2. Remove The Original Battery
Before you remove the battery, I strongly recommend having a friend hold the live (red) cable out of the way for you. This will minimize any chance of the cable moving around and touching anything during the installation process. I recommend wrapping a towel around the cable terminal as an insurance policy. Be extremely careful when you remove the battery from the battery tray. It is very heavy, and you do risk injuring your back if lifted the wrong way.
Step 3. Install MEGA-LiFe Battery
Once the old battery is out, put the MEGA-LiFe battery into the battery tray in the correct orientation. When facing the windshield, the live (red) terminal cap should be on the left (passenger side) and the ground (blue) terminal cap on the driver side. Remove the ground cap and install the ground (black) cable with the 10mm nut that was removed earlier. Repeat the same steps for the live (red) side.
Now, reinstall the battery tiedown system by reversing the removal steps from earlier. Make sure the J-hooks are hooked to the holes on the bottom of the battery tray before tightening both 10mm nuts. Once everything is installed, double-check your work and work area to make sure there are no leftover parts. Finally, make sure everything is properly tightened.
Step 4. Test The New Battery
With the hood still open, start your vehicle to ensure you have done the installation correctly.
MEGA-LiFe Battery Review
A few things were immediately noticeable to me after the installation. First, crank-starting the 4Runner is a completely new experience. I like to compare the crank starting experience with how we wake up in the morning. With regular batteries, cranking the engine feels like you are waking up unexcited on a weekday. With the MEGA-LiFe, cranking the engine feels like you are waking up to go on an overland trip; overly excited and cannot wait to start.
The second improvement is the holding voltage. I installed a Blue Sea System OLED Voltage meter in the trunk where I mount all of my accessories. The voltage meter read an impressive 13v for the battery. With my previous battery, the battery would read mid to low 12v after a few hours.
Without getting too technical, both my old battery and MEGA-LiFe will run my fridge overnight with a low 60F ambient temperature. However, the MEGA-LiFe ensures that I can also run my camp lights late into the night while the old battery could not.
The least impressive feature is the self-jump function. I have not personally experienced the need for this function on my rig yet. Before picking mine up, I tested this function on a friend’s rig with the same battery. We drained the battery by leaving all the LED lights (total of 12 various sized LED bars and pods) on through the night.
It is mind-blowing to see this function at work; you hear the empty click as you try to crank the engine and realize the battery is out of juice. Then, you pop the hood, press the button on the battery, and go back to the driver’s seat to start the engine. Like magic, it cranks right up! Drive for 15 minutes and you will have a full battery again. I no longer have to worry about overusing my battery during overnight trips.
Final Thoughts
Having owned my 4Runner for 5 years, I am slowly transitioning my build away from the minimalist approach. During a weeklong trip in the Summer, my Baldr 500 died on me every night which spoiled my food. That was followed by my main battery not wanting to start after being stationary for one full day while the fridge was running off of it. I have also had that same 2-year-old battery die on me in Death Valley after camping overnight with a high of 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
I grew tired of the various problems that I encountered every year on solo overlanding trips and was getting discouraged going on them. To me, the biggest benefit of MEGA-LiFe is the self-revive button and larger charge capacity. I will not have to worry about my fridge and camp lighting draining my battery and leaving me stranded.
Other benefits such as weight savings and fast charging time are nice, but I didn’t notice much real-world difference. Sure, lighter weight means an easier installation process, but the next time I touch it will be 10 years from now. The MPG savings that I was hoping for did not deliver and there was no noticeable difference in driving dynamics either.
So, if you are going down the “overlander” route and run lots of accessories while the vehicle is off, I strongly recommend that you take a look at MEGA-LiFe. If you want something that is truly maintenance-free and will last for a decade, you won’t find a better option.
However, if you do not mind replacing your starting battery every other year or just going on day trips here and there, then the MEGA-LiFe may not be the right fit for you.
Hi, so I’m building a dual battery system. I have the SDHQ dual battery box for the passenger side and was going to put a House Battery of 100ah there and a 100Ah Starter battery. My car is a 2021 4Runner TRD Offroad. As I’m going through the comments, I see there is a chance of fire for having the lithium battery in the engine bay due to the extreme temps? Where is the recommended place to put the house battery? Why would SDHQ sell the battery box there, when i thought lithium batteries were stable enough to manage the heat in the engine? Trying to learn this. If it matters, I’m adding solar capability too.
Hi Sherry and Rod TuffEnuf4Cruisin
we have been using Megalife Batteries for two years Wie have a 110 amp starter battery and a 200apm deep cycle battery as well we work all over Australia these batteries continue to work in all conditions heat mud dust and have never let us down
we trust these batteries and depend on them in the remote locations we travel to .
Buy it once do it right!!!!!!!
The link for battery website displays the MV-26R battery. Upon reviewing the vehicle selection list for 4Runners, this is not the model to select, right. For my 2021 Off-Road it appears the MV-31L is the proper selection, correct? Hate to order an expensive battery that takes 60-90 days and get the wrong one. MEGA-Life, please confirm proper model.
Very impressive unit! I have one as well and it’s been great for us.
FWIW, I have a 100Ah Renogy in a battery box anchored behind my 4Runner driver seat. I’m in NorCal – it regularly gets to 135F inside, but my battery temp rarely goes over 75F (it has bluetooth monitoring). That’s because there’s a large thermal mass and it’s in the 40s and 50s at night. It’s not great using internal space for a battery, but the setup works great for me!
Hey for those reading – operating a Lithium battery above operating temperatures – which will happen if it’s in a 4Runner bay – increases the chance of fire over time. Not sure the risk is worth it.
Eryck,
did you have to do anything to the battery leads to have them make it to the terminals? Or the stock length/positioning will work for these battery terminals?
nothing needed to be done for the stock cables. They go right on the terminals.
the issue with these are they shut down around freezing temperature – anyone in MN or northern states wanting to test this out :)?
Hey Tim!
Great question. So a) IF YOU LIVE IN A NORTHERN OR COLD STATE, HIT US UP. Would love someone to give this a test in the real world.
b) While Lithium does not like to CHARGE below freezing, it will still provide power just fine. Once you’ve started your engine, the warmth of the motor will quickly bring the temperature up enough for the battery to charge.
Hope this helps!!
Hey Nick – I am curious about using this battery in the north east. I live in New York and regularly travel the rough out the north east during winter. Not ice road trucking, but it does get cold for days on end. Any issues for the battery in this climate?
We’ve gone through numerous nights where water freezes overnight, and had no problem with it. But I don’t live in northern states so not sure if prolonged exposure to freezing temp will make a difference.
no a good idea to install these batteries in the engine bay , because Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries need a normal temp to hold the charge , hot and cold effect performance .
its good if you place it inside .
Interesting. We’ve done Death Valley with this in freezing temp. and had no problem. We’ve also done some low speed crawling in hot weather and also had no problem.
May want to check out this study, results and feedback.
Thanks to @WanderlostOverland Is It Safe To Put A Lithium Battery Under The Hood
Interesting. We’ve done Death Valley with this in freezing temp. and had no problem. We’ve also done some low speed crawling in hot weather and also had no problem.
That is a comment is a perfect example of Normalization of Deviance, which came out of the findings of the Space Shuttle Challenger disaster. The highest quality LiFePo4 batteries have a MAX operating temperature of 150ºF. That temperature is easily exceeded in an engine bay on a trip to Moab, for example, or any hot summer day. It not only significantly shortens the life of a $1,000 LiFePo4 battery, but risks shorts, or the battery and/or other electrical components catching fire.
Which model of MEGALife battery did you buy Eric?
sorry my mistake it’s 26L
I got the MV-26R
$900+ for a battery? Seriously?
Hey! I understand the sticker shock – let me lay it out like this. Lithium is more expensive than lead. For instance, the two 20V Lithiums that came with my DeWalt mower are the most expensive part of the machine and account for 2/3 of the purchase price. Amongst my EV dirtbike builder group, batteries are by far the most expensive component, more than even a 15kw motor/controller. It’s spendy, but worth it.
Rare earth metals like lithium cost more than a common metal like lead. this is why catalytic converter thefts are a thing, to give you an idea of the $value of these materials.
Which brings us to performance and longevity.
Pound for pound, Lithium has greater energy density. It can deliver a greater pulse discharge and has a higher nominal voltage. Every electrical system in the vehicle will perform its best.
This means you have more energy for ignition at high RPM, more power for accessories, fans blow harder, lights are brighter… and then it’s 20+lbs lighter, too.
No battery acid to spill, no blue crusty terminals, no acid-eaten chassis
there’s no more super-corrosive battery acid to spill and eat your truck up, and no blue crap on your terminals ever again – you can also mount it in any direction, upside down included.
Then there’s the longevity.
this will last you a decade. That’s 10 years with no need to go to Autozone and buy another $200-300 lead acid battery.
10yr free replacement warranty as well, not prorated. At Autozone you’ll get 2yrs, and maybe 7yr prorated.
MASSIVE difference in warranty.
And finally, peace of mind when you’re out of cell range, far from help, that you’ll never need a jump – these have an actual emergency reserve cell built in – effectively a built-in jumpstarter pack – in addition to the main charge.
My Dad likes them so much after using it in my old Ranger (I’ve been lending it to him), he’s bought two for his cars.
I hope this explains some of it – lithium is going to be spendy regardless but it is well worth the upgrade.
yeah starting price is high, but dual battery systems are about there too. then you’ll need to do all the wirings.
During my most recent trip, I ran camp lights for 8 hours while running the fridge and charging my phone, drones, and some flood lights through the night. Lowest voltage was at around 12.8 or so. By the time I got up and pack up the next morning, the battery was at 13.1v again with about 2 hours of sunlight charged through a panel that was pushing out 30-40w.
Of course, if you’re running minimalist build, then you probably don’t need this. But, if you’re running fridge (I keep mine at 28F 24/7/365), are afraid of darkness at camp, or has a lot of electronics that you need to charge, I’d go with this over a dual battery setup.
My plan is to replace the batteries in my dual system with these for a savings of 70lbs total
Every lb counts when we’re putting more stuff in our rigs!
Nice review, Eryck. Your wiring is like a mad scientist’s project :). I understand this LiFePO4 battery is less fire prone compared to LiIon technology. You said designed by Japan but where was this unit manufactured?
Correct, LiFePO4 is safer than Li-Ion, and the addition of a BMS – battery management system – built into our LiFe batteries prevents overcharge, overdischarge, hot/cold protection and thermal runaway protections.
It is still possible to damage them through EXTREME heat (think: oven) or extreme subzero cold, but for the conditions that people who are not arctic explorers or Ice Road Truckers are likely to face, they are more than up to the task.
Hello Maxim,
Thank you. I did most of my wiring about 5 years ago and I’ve been meaning to clean up and redo most of my wiring, but being a tech that wires up lights and panels for customers I am lacking motivation to work on my own rig afterhours.
According to the info I can find online, it’s the product of Japan and Australia collab. I don’t have my box anymore, so I can’t refer back to it for country of origin.