Introducing the 2nd Gen Auxbeam 8-Gang Switch Panel: General Overview for the 5th Gen 4Runner
If you are like me (and probably many others out there), spending $600-$1,000 on a modular power supply like the Switch Pro and/or sPOD for lights and accessories simply isn’t feasible. With so many options out there, finding the right budget-friendly power supply was no small task.
The Auxbeam 8 Gang Modular power distribution and switch panel was my first choice; it was easy on the wallet, coming in under the $200 mark, and boasted quality construction and materials. Like most, I didn’t want a ton of switches in place of my OEM switches in the dash. After all, there are only so many blanks to fill and mine were already full! With lights, a fridge, the 110v outlet, and lights galore, my options were pretty slim (I needed close to seven switches to power all of these accessories individually).
Find It Online:
- Auxbeam 8 Gang Switch Panel, Distribution, and Relay Box: Check Price
Auxbeam Switch Overview
Installing the Switch Panel
Pictured throughout, you’ll notice that I only have two of the stickers that come with the kit; I am in the process of re-wiring some of the switches and needed to change around the indicators. However, the kit comes with a very nice set of options for icons. What’s even better is, the stickers are reusable.
The install was pretty straightforward and after 2 years, I have had no issues with the kit. In fact, the relay box has been soaked 3 times and the relay box and switch panel are working like the day they were installed.
The 2nd generation Auxbeam switch comes with hardware for more options to mount your switch panel as well as auto-dimming led backlighting. The older models, like mine, have a white “signal” wire that you apply power to in order to dim the backlighting to your preference.
Now, let’s get into the fun part!
Tools and Materials:
- 10mm-14mm sockets
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Phillips head screwdriver
- ⅜-inch or ¼-inch ratchet
- Four (4) self-tapping 10mm screws
- Trim tools (depending on how clean you want the install to look)
- 3M double-sided tape
- Wire strippers
- Wire crimpers
- Butt connectors
- Electrical tape (if you make a mistake while installing)
Step 1. Install the Distribution Box
Out of the box, the installation is pretty straightforward. The mounting hardware that Auxbeam included is for mounting the relay box to the bracket as well as assembling the switch panel itself. I used some simple self-tapping 10mm head bolts to mount my bracket in the engine bay.
With plenty of room behind my fuse box, I decided this would be the best option as my onboard air was already mounted in the rear of my 4Runner. There are two (2) holes that these bolts will almost perfectly thread into, providing a very tight and almost perfectly level mount.
Step 2. Install the Relay Switch
Once your mounting bracket is installed in the engine bay, you will want to check the instructions provided to mount your relay box to the support bracket. The support bracket that you just installed in the engine bay has various different holes pre-drilled for different orientations.
Once the relay box is mounted securely to the bracket, it is time to wire in your controller/switch panel and power inputs. Now, it will show Amp ratings for each of the possible circuits/switches you can use, so there shouldn’t be much confusion there.
When wiring up to power and ground, run your ground to either the battery ground or a standard body ground (either works just fine). When wiring up the power wire, you will need to connect one section of the wiring to the inline fuse to the battery and the other section from the inline fuse to the distribution box. You can secure the inline fuse assembly however you would like. Personally, I used double-sided 3M tape.
Step 3. Install/Mount Your Switch Panel
I have had my 4Runner for quite a while and am no stranger to pulling panels, routing harnesses, and drilling. I will explain how to mount it with drilling and without.
First, you need to get the harness routed from your distribution box through the grommet in your firewall and then route it to wherever you want to mount your switch panel.
I routed the harness through the firewall, zip-tied the excess wiring to the existing harnesses in the vehicle, and then cut a small notch into my plastic panel where the vent housing the corner cap of the dash met (hence why I included trim tools in the “Tools Needed” section).
The harness has a braided shroud all the way to the connector for the switch and is very sturdy. The connector is an odd one, as you connect the two parts by lining up the arrows, pressing them together, and then once they are seated you spin the collar on to fully secure them to one another.
As for mounting the small metal plate that holds my switch panel, I decided to use some small screws to fasten the plate down. I will be changing this soon to double-sided tape as well.
Step 4. Running Wiring Harness
Here you can see the notch that I cut and the location I chose to mount the switch panel in.
From here you are finished with the installation. All that is left is for you to wire up your accessories and put the corresponding icons over which switch that accessory is on.
Final Thoughts
If you are looking for a budget-friendly option to control all your accessories on a safe and isolated set of circuits and relays, look no further. The Auxbeam 2nd Gen comes in under $200 and the construction and quality feel as if it was priced like the competition.
I can’t get over this switch and relay system. It has made life and modifying so much easier. I would give this product 4.8-5 stars, any day of the week.
As of now, my opinion of the Auxbeam 8 Gang Switch is very high.
The construction is great, the installation was easy, and powering lights, fridge, etc. has never been easier. There is no hassle with installs, and I have plenty of options. I have yet to find anything I don’t like other than the older generation’s dimming process. I would buy this again in a heartbeat and never look back. So far, I love the company and have used a number of their products from their lights to this switch panel and have had no complaints.
I just installed the V2 of the Auxbeam 8 gang switch panel and it works properly. The problem I am having is in connecting the light wires to the Output Connections. When I tighten down the screws the power goes out. Can you please explain how to properly secure wires into the Output Connections.
Thanks 1
I’m getting ready to install this unit. So finding this post is extremely helpful. I see someone else asked about the fuses and their lane, can I swap to higher amperage? I’m not going to use all the accessories at once or turn them all on at the same time. Thanks again
I completely agree with Eric. This switch panel is 100% garage. I had purchased it directly from Auxbeam and after installing it, it did not work as well. So, I contacted Auxbeam, requesting a refund. I told them that the unit was defective and didn’t work. They wanted me to submit pictures and videos of the problem. I told them that I had already uninstalled the entire unit and all I wanted was a refund. They kept insisting on me taking pictures and a video of the alleged problem. I told customer service that pictures and a video won’t show them what was wrong with the unit. They still insisted on pictures and a video. Long story short, after going back and forth with about 4 emails, I finally had to threaten Auxbeam. I told them that if they were not willing to refund me, I was going to have the charges reversed and report them to the Better Business Bureau. After, that they issued a refund immediately. I ended up going with another brand called Voswitch. I’m glad I did and probably should have initially. I’ve had no problems. The unit was around $270, on Amazon. You’ll pay a little bit more but I think it’s worth the extra money you pay.
That is interesting, honestly. As I said in a lower comment, with it being a cheaper option, I can definitely see some bad batches being a possibility. As for the customer service, its rough that you had a terrible time with them. I haven’t run into that yet and have been going strong for quite some time now. Although I will keep my eye out for any hiccups. I am curious as to what problems you were having though!
I do installations and wiring part time and recently I had a GX came in for electrical issues. Mainly, the air pump doesn’t turn on. After troubleshooting and testing, I came to the conclusion that the panel is bad, so I swapped it. And it still wouldn’t work. I then found out the panel utilizes a different connector, so I swapped the whole unit out. Upon testing before wrapping up the job, nothing turned on. So I opened another unit, which was dead. 2 out of 2 dead units dead on arrival. Reported and showed the issue to customer and convinced the customer to go switch-pro. No issue after.
This is the most recent experience I had with this style of panel. Prior experiences are about 33% dead on arrival rate. There are other companies that sell this exact same panel and my guess is they all came from the same manufacture and different “brand” slap on their packaging after.
By no means I’m steering people away from this panel, but this has been my experience dealing with this style of panels. I understand people have different budgets for different things, and I’m just sharing my experience with installing this.
That is perfectly understandable. Me and about 8 or 9 of the members of a group I am in have switched over to these with no issues whatsoever. It is always possible to get a bad lot.
Love mine – here is a question – are the Amp Loads just based on the fuse they put in place or is there electronics built into it that determine that. I am going to be hooking up a 12V Pump and only have 5AMP slots left. I would prefer not having to move things around to install.
Glad you asked, from my understanding, the lanes/circuits are all the same, so my conclusion is that the amp loads are based solely on the fuses.