ADS Coil Over Shock Suspension Overview on 5th Gen 4Runner
ADS Coil Over 2.5″ Racing Shocks with Remote Reservoir Suspension Setup Install Overview For 5th Gen 4Runner
I’m just going to come out and say it…
If you can change a tire, you can do your own suspension install on a 4Runner. If you don’t know how to change a tire, you shouldn’t be driving.
If you’re modding your vehicle, you should be doing your own installations. There’s no better way to learn your vehicle than doing the work yourself.
It’s almost daily that someone on the forums or Facebook is asking for advice on where to take their rig to get suspension installed.
A little research, google-fu, and utilization of the search function on YouTube can get you the baseline knowledge to do your own suspension install.
What equipment do you need?
It’s a pretty basic install for Toyotas, especially for the 5th Gen 4Runner that I had this suspension kit installed on.
Part For Install:
- ADS 2.5″ Coil-Over Racing Shocks + Remote Reservoir Suspension: Check Price
Tools You’ll Need For Install:
- Metric Socket Set
- Metric Wrench Set
- Torque Wrench
- Floor Jack
- Jack Stands
Front Suspension Install Overview
Step 1. Lift 4Runner On Jack & Remove Front Wheels
Jack the truck up and put jack stands under it on the frame just aft of the cross member behind the front wheels.
Note: Be sure to account for the lift that you are installing so you give yourself enough room to put the tires back on.
Once safely on the stands, remove the front wheels. You’ll need the 21mm deep socket for removal of the stock lug nuts.
Step 2. Loosen Alignment Cam Tabs & Remove Skid Plate
Now that you have the wheels off, take a 22mm socket and loosen the alignment cam tabs. I always do 4 complete turns.
No need to mark where your alignment tabs were since you’ll be getting an alignment when you’re done with the install.
Now that the cam bolts are loose on both sides, remove the skid plate.
The 4Runner has a mix of 10mm and 12mm bolts. Move the skid plate out of the way for the time being.
Step 3. Remove Sway Bar & Disconnect From Spindle (Both Sides)
Next, take a 17mm socket and remove the nut that secures the sway bar link into the spindle. Do this on both sides.
Once those are off and the links are disconnected from the spindle, take a 14mm socket and remove the bolts securing the sway bar brackets to the frame.
Then, remove the sway bar and set it out of the way.
Note: Now you can pick which side you want to start on. Each side is essentially identical. Removing the strut assembly is pretty simple and self-explanatory when you are looking at it. A lot of people disconnect the upper control arm (UCA) from the spindle but it isn’t necessary if you aren’t replacing the UCA.
Step 4. Loosen the (x3) Nuts To Release Strut Assembly
There are three (x3) 14mm nuts on top of the strut tower.
Use a wrench here (ratcheting wrenches are really handy) and remove the 3 nuts. The whole assembly will release and drop down a bit releasing any tension.
Next, you’ll need a 19mm wrench and 19mm socket to remove the lower shock bolt. With the bolt out, you can pull the strut assembly out.
Installing the new strut or coil over is done in the exact reverse order of the removal process with the exception of the tower bolts and lower shock bolt.
Step 5. Install New Strut Or Coil Over (Both Sides)
To install the new strut or coil over, place the new unit in the tower and align to top bolts so they stick up through the holes in the tower.
Once positioned, reinstall the nuts hand tight.
Once installed, reinstall lower shock bolt, sway bar, skid plate & wheels
Next, position the strut so the lower shock bolt can be reinstalled. Now that the bolt is in place, tighten and torque to OEM spec. Do the same with the 3 nuts up top.
Follow these steps on the other side.
Once both struts are installed, you can reinstall the sway bar, skid plate, and wheels. Raise the vehicle off of the jack stands and remove the stands and lower the vehicle so it is sitting on the ground.
Tighten the alignment cams to 100 lb-ft and move on the rear install.
Rear Suspension Install Overview
Step 6. Remove Rear Wheels & Shocks
With the vehicle on jack stands, remove the wheels and pull the shocks off.
Start with the upper shock nut, remove it and the washer and bushing and set aside. Do on the other side as well.
Step 7. Loosen Sway Bar & Remove Link From Mount
Now that both shocks are removed, loosen the sway bar nuts on each side of the vehicle and drop the link from the mount. The axle is now free and only connected by the links and Panhard bar. Leave these alone.
To remove the coil springs, push down on the wheel hub until you can pull the spring. (Much easier to do with a second person). Do this on both sides.
Now you can install the new shocks.
To install the new components, you will do everything in reverse order from the removal.
Step 8. Install New Rear Coil Springs
Installing the new rear coil springs can be a task, but is not impossible.
First thing you must do is swap your factory spring bumps (cone-shaped) into the new springs.
Note: I’ve found it is really easy to use a bottle jack sitting on the axle directly under the bump stop. Jack the axle down until you can get the spring in and seated. Do this on both sides.
Step 9. Reinstall Sway Bar Links & New Shocks
Once the springs are in, you can reinstall the sway bar links into their mounts and tighten them down.
To install the new shocks, I like to install the lower mount first then muscle the shock into its upper mount. Same technique for both sides.
Using a floor jack, I place it under the rear diff and jack the axle up until the upper shock post has enough thread through the top bushing and washer to get the upper nuts threaded.
Lastly, reinstall the rear wheels & don’t forget to get an alignment!
Once this is done on both sides, reinstall the wheels and let the vehicle sit on its own weight and tighten the upper shock nuts until the upper bushing has a better than slight bulge.
And you’re done! Now, go get an alignment and enjoy your new suspension.
Questions or Comments? Leave them below!