Step bars, sometimes referred to as “nerf bars” (or running boards), come in several different styles but are essentially a fashionable way to assist you in getting into and out of your 5th Gen 4Runner.
Step bars differ from rock sliders in several ways, including construction materials, installation, and especially price. Although step bars and rock sliders seem to exist on opposite ends of the spectrum, the RKR step system from N-FAB does a great job of closing the gap.
This system bolts onto your factory side step mounting locations and acts more like a rock slider and rocker panel protection while on the trails. However, it has removable “steps” for more daily driving applications.
Table Of Contents
Nerf/Step Bars Vs. Rock Sliders
Before we discuss the RKR Step System in detail, let me first give a broad overview of the difference between step bars and rock sliders and the reasons for them both.
Step bars and rock sliders mount in the same general location on your rig but serve two very different purposes. Where step bars will mount to the body of the vehicle, just underneath the rocker panels (into threaded body mounts), rock sliders are affixed to the frame of your 4Runner, either by bolts or welded permanently in place.
The primary purpose of step bars is to give you a foothold while entering or exiting the vehicle, while the main focus of rock sliders is to protect your rocker panel areas from damage from below. These differences are further reflected in the design, construction, and materials used by their manufacturers.
If you’re interested in sliders, David Todd did an outstanding write-up.
How To Choose
So why would anyone choose one option over the other? The same reasons we choose anything else for our favored four-wheel drives: Cost, purpose, and aesthetics.
While the thought of having rock sliders sounds great, they tend to cost twice as much as step bars and if you’re not planning on running trails that are too technical, you may want to save those extra clams for another toy for your Yota.
Most step bars can easily be installed by a DIY-minded enthusiast, while rock sliders require welding to be mounted (most are bolt-on today). They tend to be made of heavier materials for their armor abilities, but again, if you don’t need the defense, you can save a great deal of weight with a set of step bars.
Where aesthetics are subjective, I can tell you that I prefer the look of rock sliders that tuck tightly up under the rocker panels, but I also like the ability to step up into the rig with ease. With the RKR Step System from N-FAB, I can have both.
Product Overview
The N-FAB RKR step system is exactly that—a system.
While most other step bars will have their rails and steps as a single piece, the RKR system allows them to be easily bolted and unbolted to the main rails. With the steps installed, the RKR provides a solid surface to set your foot on while entering or exiting your 4Runner. When you remove the steps, the main rails hug the rocker panels underneath the doors to protect against the unwelcome rocks or tree stumps.
Build Quality
Most step bars are made of lightweight and thin materials such as composite or aluminum. For example, my 4Runner came equipped with factory running boards that seemed to be comprised of an aluminum frame and plastic coverings. The RKR step system, however, is made from 1.75″ tubular steel with a 0.120″ thick wall that is treated both inside and out, making it resistant to rust and corrosion.
The full set of bars and separate steps are welded at the joints for strength and finished in a textured black powder coating. These traits will ensure you get the best protection and rigidity available, as N-FAB has designed these step bars to be right on par with top-rated rock sliders. Combine this with a lifetime structural warranty and a 5-year warranty on the finish (a typical failure point), and you have an affordable and trail-worthy bar system for both form and function.
Installation
Tool & Materials:
- Ratchet
- Sockets: 12mm
- Wrenches: 18mm and 17mm
- Universal Joint
- Floor Jack (optional)
Mounting the RKR system is pretty simple. If you’re unsure about doing this yourself, I recommend starting with the passenger side to get the feel of it. There are far fewer things in the way compared to the driver’s side, which houses the KDSS system and all its plumbing.
It doesn’t matter if you first mount the steps to the main bars or wait until after installation. They’re designed to be removed and reinstalled at will. I wanted to put the entire assembly under the truck, so I installed the steps beforehand.
It’s worth noting that there was no indication as to which side was the driver and which was the passenger. There are three brackets on the main bars where the bolts screw into the 4Runner, the front bracket will have a slightly different layout than the other two.
Step 1. Remove Old Running Boards
If you have factory running boards, like I did, you’ll need to remove them first. There are (6) 12mm bolts that hold the running boards to the underbody. Using a ratchet and socket, loosen the bolts enough to finish the job using your fingers, but don’t fully remove them yet. Although the running boards are light, they’re long and cumbersome to work out from under the 4Runner with one end still bolted.
Once you get all (6) bolts loosened, you can begin to fully remove them, starting at one end and working your way to the other. As the bolts come out, the board will easily begin to drop and can be removed altogether. You won’t need those bolts. Repeat the process on the other side, and you’re ready to install the RKR system.
Step 2. Install New RKR Setup
The RKR step system comes with all new hardware, so if your ride didn’t come equipped with running boards or you don’t have existing bolts in place, no worries, N-FAB has taken care of you. The new bolts provided by N-FAB are longer and have a separate, more stout washer than the simple OEM bolts. Be sure to use them!
Even though the RKRs are still considered step bars, they are made with the same armor traits as rock sliders, so they will be considerably heavier than your factory boards. At first, I tried to lift and support the bars at the far end with my foot while I tried to get the closer bolts started. After 15 seconds of struggling and my wife laughing non-judgmentally, I used a floor jack to support the bars under the truck, while I easily worked the bolts.
After you have all the bolts threaded, tighten them snug using a ratchet and 12mm socket. There are (2) bolts per bracket, and I had to use the U-joint to access the lower bolts while the upper bolts were easily accessible.
Step 3. Mount Step Portion
If you haven’t installed the steps already, now’s the time. With the main bars secured to your 4Runner, line up the steps with the mounting locations. Slide the 18mm bolt through the holes and secure it with the 17mm nut. If you need to remove them, simply reverse the process, and you’re set.
Tip #1
You may have noticed the weld for the step supports is only welded on one side. Well, there’s a good reason for that. The “flat” side is the mounting location for the step. This allows the step to sit flat and snug against the support bar while the curved part of the step fits securely against the main rail, allowing it to be properly supported.
If you install the steps on the weld side, you will notice that the step does not sit parallel with the ground and does not form a secure bond against the main rail, but rather the weld itself. This could cause unnecessary wear on your nice new step system.
Tip #2
There are (2) bolts per bracket that mount to your 4Runner. While the upper bolts had plenty of clearance, the lower bolts were a little trickier to access. I needed to use a U-joint or “wobble” everything to get to these. I got all the bolts started, wiggled them into position, and tightened them down. Also, if you decide to use a drill to screw in these bolts, I recommend turning down your torque before finishing the task by hand. You don’t want to overtighten these.
I didn’t have the recommended torque specs in my package, so I made a quick call to N-FAB via RealTruck.com. The staff was very polite and helpful, and after a few minutes chatting with the N-FAB rep, I learned that the torque specs for the main rails to the truck were 15-20 ft. lbs., and the steps were 65 ft. lbs.
Tip #3
This one was a little more frustrating than anything else. After installing the RKR system, I drove around for half a day. As I gradually stopped at a red light, I noticed a slight rubbing noise similar to creaky springs. I could only hear it at very slow speeds and only when I began to drive off or came to a dead stop.
Since the RKR system was the only thing I changed, I did a quick check and noticed that the KDSS bash cover was touching the main rail ever so slightly. I tried to adjust the rails by loosening all the bolts, but I didn’t gain any wiggle room whatsoever. My temporary fix was to hit that location with a quick blast of my favorite spray lubricant and carry on. No creak. I will probably try to adjust once more when I can free up a little more wrench time, or even grind down that KDSS cover plate by millimeters at the rubbing location for a more permanent solution.
RKR – With Steps
RKR – Without Steps
Final Thoughts
The N-FAB RKR step system is a solidly built and easily installed upgrade. It fills the gap nicely between nerf bars and rock sliders as it’s strong enough to take a hit and protect your ride.
The powder coating finish is nice and relatively durable, but when it scratches off, it won’t take much to start flaking, so make sure to take care of the coating. Aside from the KDSS rub, the fit is great, and the entire system installs easily. The upgrade from the factory running boards to this system is huge. Not only does the RKR system look amazing with the steps both on and off, but the feeling of being more protected eases the mind.
I know it seems as if rock sliders and step bars are on opposite ends of the spectrum, but in reality, they’re more like siblings. Same family of parts, with very different personalities. If sliders are the rough and rugged type and step bars are the fashionably sophisticated ones, then the RKR step system is the middle ground. The RKR’s ability to hold its form while putting function on blast is phenomenal.
With the steps on, this system elegantly enhances off-road style while providing a strong and secure way to get into and out of your righteous rig. Take the steps off, and your 4Runner’s trail-worthy side becomes trail-ready. The low-profile bars snug up to the rocker panels, providing maximum ground clearance while denying flex, exuding confidence on the trail.
In short, the RKR step system from N-FAB offers a strong and beautiful bar set while providing the option of removable steps that won’t break the bank.
I bought a used set of these off Craigslist by a seller that told me they were “OEM rock sliders”. Caveat Emptor…..should have done more research. I installed them anyway as my 4Runner is new, and I wont be doing any hard core wheeling just yet. They do look nice, and will probably be fine for light duty wheeling. I plan on swapping them out in 5 yrs or so when I need new tires and perhaps a suspension upgrade.
Light duty is for sure a good way to explain it. They can bridge the gap for most people.
I can confirm the drivers side bar contacting the KDSS shield. I only hear it creak every now and again, as long as I know what it is, no biggy. The only problem I can foresee is needing to do any maintenance to the KDSS, the bar would need to be removed to get the shield off. Minimal hassle but a hassle none the less.
I am enjoying them though, they do look nice. Style over substance, for sure… oh well.
You need to revise this article, these aren’t rock sliders and will absolutely destroy your rockers if you try to use them as sliders.
James, I adjusted the second header. This is more of an “alternative” or middle ground. No one suggested smashing/using this in exactly the same manner as a dedicated rock slider. That said, it’s also true that these could handle some small/medium hits without causing secondary damage. Wranglers have used a “slider” much like this for years. Is it as good as a bolt/weld-on version? Of course not. Does it apply to a vast majority of people who won’t be wheeling super hard? Definitely.
If these aren’t bolted to the frame they don’t really function as sliders then right? It seems like they’d stop a car door from hitting you but not much else.
Frank, I answered this above for James in some manner. This is a good middle ground between a running board and a dedicated rock slider. Could it take some hits? For sure. Within reason.
I’ve had these N fabs on for 6 years great bars. The steps rusted right away but bars are still fine, I powdered coated steps last winter. Midwest salt destroyed the paint from factory. Don’t know why they didn’t coat with same stuff. Easy install.