4Runner Rago Fab MSP (MOLLE Panel) Installation and Overview on Toyota 4Runner – Everything You Need to know
As we have already covered this in a few other sections, most of you are well aware of the MOLLE panels. The installation is a pretty straightforward process, but it never hurts to have a fresh perspective.
- 10mm Socket
- 10mm Wrench
- 5mm Allen Wrench
- Phillips Screw Driver
- Flat-head Screw Driver
Find it online:
- Rago Fab MOLLE Panel: Check Price
- Rago Fab Center Console MOLLE Panels: Check Price
- R4T MOLLE Mounts: Check Price
- Size: 1″x1.5″ or 1″x0.75″
- Fits: Rago Fabrication Panels
- Fits: Cali Raised Panels
- Cali Raised LED Molle: Check Price
- Cali Raised LED Molle Panels and Shelf: Check Price
Update (hardware broke)
Update: Finn Fab Hardware on the left Vs. Rago Fabrication Hardware (stripped out) Issues on the right.
Rago Fabrication has spacers with threaded rods on both sides. If you are threading and unthreading the spacer constantly to access the backside of the panel to mount accessories (which you need to do with this design), then this will cause the threads to strip or come loose over time. Because there are individual rods threaded into both sides of the spacer, this causes the spacer to become loose from the rods thus leaving a threaded rod stuck in your 4Runner… ask me how I know.
Basically, when you loosen a spacer to access the backside of the panel, you risk unthreading the whole spacer from the threaded rod that’s threading into the 4Runner—which is not the design intention. This results in a threaded rod stuck in your 4Runner which has to be removed somehow. We used a pair of vice grips to grip the end of the rod which destroyed our threads making the entire MOLLE panel unusable. Basically, it’s a faulty design.
This section of content came from a recent post on new molle panels: Rear Window MOLLE Panels by Finn Fab
Step #1: Pre-check all items
Step #2: Remove caps & coat hook
Remove the Front Cover Screw. Make sure you use the flat head screwdriver towards the indentation near the bottom of the cap. Otherwise, you may damage or scrape the plastic. Remove the rear latch by turning to the right, it should pop off fairly easy. Then use the Phillips screwdriver and remove the screw. Notes: You won’t be needing the screw, so you can put it away for future re-installs if needed. Remove the top latch. With one hand push up on the tab slowly, just enough to place the flat head screwdriver and push down so it will pop open. Remove the bolt using a 10mm socket wrench.
Notes: You won’t be needing the bolt, so you can put it away for future re-installs if needed.
Step #3: Mount Brackets Together
Time to install the brackets together. You will be needing the 10mm socket wrench and the allen wrench. See picture for example for the correct direction of the bracket with the “R” clearly facing up on both. It’s best to hold onto the allen wrench, and then tighten using the socket wrench.
Step #4: Assemble the Panel
Here, we are going to start mounting the “DRIVERS” side first using one of the two brackets. The way to tell if you have it correctly is reference using the “R”. The “R” should be facing up as shown in the picture. Secure it at the 2 points in the picture. DO NOT tighten the bolts yet! Simply secure it so it won’t fall off, but allow it move freely. You will tighten it later on.
The “PASSENGER” side shares the same method.
Step #5: Install Bottom Screw Spacers
Remove the pre-installed screws from the factory that is on the installed mounts you did earlier on both sides.
Step #6a: Attaching the Panel
Attach the panel on the driver’s side with one hand, while securing the bolt back onto the mounts as shown below. Reference again using the “R.” You can easily hand tighten them for now so the panel won’t easily fall off. Factory did so on the top first, but I find it a lot easier to install from the bottom up. Do not tighten the bolts yet, wait till you secure the top mount first. The panel itself isn’t super heavy so it shouldn’t stress the bolts too much.
Step #6b: Attaching the Panel
Install the top mount using the bolt w/ spacer provided. You may need to wiggle or move around the bracket to get the bolt in properly. If done correctly, the bolt will easily fit in place. Do not force tighten it if it does not thread properly. Back it off and shift the bracket till you get a better threading of the bolt. This is the reason we did not tighten those rear nuts on the mount earlier. Now in order to secure the bolt and nuts that were not tightened earlier. Use a 10mm wrench and stick it through the panel to hold onto the 10mm nut on the opposite side, while turning the allen wrench from the front as shown.
Notes: Carefully remove the wrench after tightening to prevent it from damaging the glass window. Make sure all bolts are tightened evenly by giving it a few turns here and then move on to the next bolt, and then back like a triangle.