5th Gen 4Runner Front 4″ – 4.5″ Lift with Adjustable Coilovers, Strut Shims & 3″ Rear Springs
There are many ways to achieve different heights on your suspension lift. This is not the only way to achieve a 4″ – 4.5″ on your 5th Gen 4R, this is just how we did it. If you are looking for a suspension kit that is higher than the average 3″ – 3.5″ suspension kits out there, you have a few options. You can always look at a full lift kit, not a suspension kit or go the route we are going.
Fab-Tech makes a full 6″ kit and ProComp makes a 6″ kit for the 5th Gen, which are always an option if you want to go that route. You can also go with the example in this post (4″ – 4.5″) and then do a 1″ body lift. This would put you at 5.5″ of lift.
Although a body lift is not technically part of your suspension, it will still give you a “lifted” appearance. A body lift is lifting your 4Runner body off and away from the frame. This is a pretty touchy subject among many truck and SUV owners in any automotive circle.
For now, we are staying away from the body lift and from overkill kits, like the Fab-Tech 6″ kit along with the ProComp 6″ kit. If we ever decide to go another direction with the 5th Gen, we will likely go with a rear metal tech long travel set-up and a front Total Chaos long travel set-up. As for going up any higher with the Stage 2 Icon Suspension that we have installed, I think we are done. Long travel is a topic for another post but it is likely that we will get there eventually.
In short, here is what we are doing:
- Starting with a Stage 2 Icon Suspension (adjustable coilovers)
- Adding Ekstrom Design Strut Shims on top of the Coilovers
- Keeping the same upper control arms
- Replacing our Icon 2″ rear spring with an Icon 3″ overland rear spring
- Keeping the same rear shocks
In short
- Icon Stage 2 Coilovers
- Icon Tubular UCAs
- Ekstrom Designs ¼” shims (4) – 2 on each coil.
- 3” rear overland springs
- Icon 1-3″ rear shocks
Optional:
- Upper/Lower Links
- Adjustable track bar/pan hard bar (Icon)
- Extended brake lines
Icon Stages:
- Icon Stage 1: Check Price
- Icon Stage 2: Check Price
- Icon Stage 3: Check Price
- Icon Stage 4: Check Price
- Icon Stage 5: Check Price
This set-up will take us from 3″ – 3.5″ in the front to 4″ – 4.5″ and from 2″ in the back to 3″ in the back. The goal here is to increase our ground clearance more than what we already have. By adding the rear 3″ Icon overland spring, we can also start adding additional weight without pulling the rear down too much.
Icon Rear Overland 3″ Springs Vs. 2″ Springs
The 3″ Icon overland spring is designed for expedition-style builds that load down their ride with excessive weight. The overland spring is designed to accommodate rear bumpers, fridge, drawer systems, winches, rooftop tents, and more. An overland spring will set you at 3″ of lift with an unloaded vehicle and 2″ of lift with a typical overland style build; bumpers, drawer systems, load roof racks, etc.
It can add a better look to the 4Runner as it does sit a little higher when unloaded. It is important to keep in mind though, once you start adding additional weight, the spring will settle down to a 2″ spring. The 2″ spring is not designed to “settle” once you start adding weight. If you are running a 2″ spring, you can expect a similar ride height when loaded and unloaded.
If you are looking to add an excessive amount of accessories; rear bumpers, fridge and drawer systems, winches, rooftop tents, then go with a 3″ spring. If you are are looking for the occasional loaded 4Runner, then go with the 2″ spring.
What are strut shims (Ekstrom Design Strut Shims)?
Strut shims are designed to fine tune the stance and height without adding preload to your coilovers. The Ekstrom Design strut shims measure .250″ thick and are installed in the middle of the pivot, between the frame and where the tire makes contact to the ground.
You can stack 1 strut shim on top of your coilover or 2 (stacking up to 2 is recommended). This gives you the ability to adjust your front suspension without maxing out the preload on your coil, which is not typically recommended.
As most of you already know, a 1.5″ spacer would give you 3″ of lift. So, a .250″ thick shim will produce .500″ of additional lift. In our application, we stacked 2 shims on top of our coilovers and produced 1″ of additional lift. If needed from here, we can adjust the preload on the coilover and achieve a slightly higher or lower ride height. Strut shims are great. You can add 1-2 shims per side and safely add .50″-1″ of additional lift without changing ride quality.
Installing the Ekstrom Design Strut Shims
NOTE: Your bolts will need to mount through the top of the coil bucket, through the shims, and thread into your coilovers. This is just an image to give you an idea of the concept.
If you are not familiar with a 4Runner suspension install, you should check out that post first. This should get you up to speed with the basics of your suspension. The process is relatively the same. Depending on if you have KDSS or not, it might be a little different. For a quick rundown on this process:
- Unbolt coilovers
- Unbolt lower spindle to lower control arm
- Drop your coilovers down to make room for the shims
- Slide in the strut shims and line the holes up
- Realign your coilovers and bolt everything down
You don’t need to remove your upper control arms for this. You need to unbolt your strut and allow yourself enough room to slide in the strut shims. This will also require unbolting your lower spindle bolts. These are the bolts that connect to your lower control arm. Once your spindle is free and your strut is free, you can pull your strut down a few inches and then slide in your strut shims.
If you have KDSS, the passenger side might be a little tighter than the driver. We were aware of the KDSS open valve trick to release pressure of the anti-roll bars but it didn’t work on the passenger side. The driver side seemed to have dropped quite a bit, but the passenger side was tight. We loosened the KDSS valves exactly 2.5 turns and it didn’t seem like much of anything happened for the passenger side. We had to remove the KDSS once again on the passenger side to get the strut back up into place.
Find the KDSS accumulator assembly and shutter valve information at the bottom of this page for reference.
Installing the Ekstrom Design Strut Shims
Depending on how many shims you have will determine the ease of installing these. I would image one single strut shim would be easier as aligning 2 shims with the Icon threads and the coil bucket holes took a bit of patience. You do not need to remove your strut completely. By dropping your lower control arms, you can drop your strut down, and feed the shims into place.
Once you place your shims into the correct alignment, start working your magic with the bolts down the coil bucket holes, through both shims, and into the threads on your coilover.
We found it helpful the second time around to thread a set of matching thread bolts from the bottom up through the shims, just reaching “flush” in order for us to align the coilover into place. We threaded two bolts on the outside and left the hole inside the coil bucket open. You really only need two bolts to align the shims and we wouldn’t be able to reach the rear bolt in the bucket after the coilover was in place.
Once we had the bolts through the bottom, we aligned the strut/ coilover and threw it up into place. It was much easier getting the bolts in from the top down, with a set of bolts already threaded from the bottom up.
You don’t”need” a second set of same thread bolts, though. You can just use your patience young padawan and then drive off into the sunset.
Installing Rear Overland 3″ Springs on your 4Runner
If you have installed a rear 2″ spring, you know it was tighter than the stock 4Runner spring. The 3″ spring is a pretty big difference, again. The best method we found for getting these springs in was by using coil spring compressors. Once you get the springs in, you should be all set.
Best Location for Spring Compressors
Before you pick a spot on your springs, take a look at where they are going to sit once they are mounted. To get an idea of where the spring will sit, align the pigtail of the spring in its correct location and then choose spots on the spring where you can access with an impact drill and large socket. Once you find your desired location, you can pull the spring out and then start compressing your springs.
Compressing Springs
Compress your springs until you feel comfortable. You can compress your springs anywhere from 1-2″ comfortably to allow a much easier install. You want your spring compressors to be directly across from one another in order for the long screws to stay straight. After your springs are compressed and installed, pull your compressors off.
Releasing Compressor Springs
Once your spring is properly aligned, you can remove your spring compressors from the spring and bolt everything back up.
KDSS NOTES: If you have KDSS, you might need to remove the anti-roll bar in the back. We removed ours. We also removed a few brake line nuts to free up some droop, but we did not remove the track bar.
The KDSS Valve Trick (Does it work?)
We followed the directions from Iron Man 4×4 exactly and still had to remove the anti-roll bar in the back.
- Those instructions: Download them here
We did have luck with the front driver. We did not remove the KDSS on the driver’s side, but we had to on the passenger side and in the rear.
The 5th Gen 4Runner KDSS accumulator assembly and shutter valves
These instructions are coming straight from Iron Man 4×4.
This special instruction must be followed exactly when the removal of any suspension component is performed.
The KDSS system is a Hydro-Mechanical Semi-Active anti-roll bar. Failure to adhere to the below steps will result in malfunction or damage to the KDSS System.
- 1) Hoist the vehicle, and allow wheels to hang freely.
- 2) Locate the KDSS accumulator assembly positioned under the vehicle, just beside the left chassis rail.
- 3) Remove the steel protective shield.
- 4) Locate shutter valve bolts on side of the accumulator.
Unscrew shutter valve bolts 1.5 – 2.5 turns MAXIMUM.
DO NOT REMOVE SHUTTER VALVE BOLTS OR UNSCREW ANY FURTHER THAN THAN ADVISED.
- 5) The KDSS shutter valves are now open, allowing full movement of front and rear anti-roll bars. It is now safe to remove and install suspension components.
DO NOT START OR OPERATE THE VEHICLE WITH SHUTTER VALVES OPEN.
- 6) When suspension works are complete, lower vehicle onto level ground, then close BOTH shutter valve bolts fully by turning clockwise and tightening. Reinstall protective shield.
Okay…so I’m thinking of chopping the brackets and going body lift and replacing my 2yo 3″ coils rear…and my 2″ coilovers ranchos kit front…with stiffer stuff…but not too stiff …obviously…way up by top of the article….it says “keep stock upper control arms” then the IN SHORT thing says UCA’s replacement…
So either this entire article is junk bogus bunk…worth zero skrilla intellectually and spiritually…not worth a dudes time
..or I’m a retard, that is so high on glyphosate syndrome and covid “vaccines” ….oh and boron gas exposure…
That I have no idea…
I just know this is not educational information for anyone lifting a 5th gen …but rather …well… I’m no ones judge…
I’m not even close to equipped for that…
I am built for praise though….hockey games, baseball, concerts, etc…
I get those good goose bumps all over when I do what I was created to do…Haha
So can you clear this up for me?
Or fix the error and delete this comment…
I’m not wasting another minute taking advice here…as I am serious about doing my lift and if UCAs are needed…okay!!!
But hey I’m only approximately one year in….on my BFG AT’s….
Well two years, but only one year worth, of driving on them….only drove her two times in 6-7 months…until recently…
So, thanks for the “article”
It doesn’t come across like a sales gimmick….until you read it lol
Wow, I should have not spent time reading this. But since I did, the UCA must be replaced with any lift starting from 2.5-3″. The article says “keeping the same arms” means that they have already been upgraded – there is a link to the 1st part.
So if I read this correctly, with the shims and the Icon Stage 2 lift a 4″-4.5″ lift was achieved successfully with KDSS? I recently obtained a 2010 4R Trail and will be ordering the Icon Stage 2 soon. However, in my research I have found that it seems to be common that nothing more than a 3″ lift is possible with KDSS. I am aware of the KDSS spacers from Treaty Oak Offroad as well as the panhard correction bracket to keep suspensio geometry correct and aid KDSS with anything larger than a 2.5″ lift. But, if adding the shims to the IVD coilovers nets a 4″-4.5″ lift with KDSS still in operation and no ill results, I see it being more beneficial not to mention contradicting to all the “kdss can only go a maximum of 3″ lift” info floating around. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated as I would like to add some .5″ shims to my list of parts to order.
Good point…”if I read this correctly”
Pretty sure it isnt correct so that’s why its monotony money monday dead end road…
Actually “Bob” it is correct and I have been successfully running a 4” front and 3” rear lift with KDSS for over a year now without issue. Based on your terrible posts and ability to use English in any coherent manner, I’m assuming you’re just trolling.
What thickness spacer do I need to install on front shockd to level a 2021 4runner
2″
I tried the shutter valve trick and it works. I don’t get the KDSS lean like some ppl are having and I also did the shim in the front suspension works awesome!! I have a video on this.
https://youtu.be/Etgpt5KiF-o
check it out. I just did one shim and I got almost a 5” lift up front and almost a 4” in the rear
Hey Brenan,
First and foremost, I just wanted to say thank you for all you do. This site has been a great place to gain new information for my build. I have a 19′ T4R Pro recently switched to Fox 2.5 DSC and Icon 2″ Rear springs. I definitely like how the COs ride at their stock adjusted preload. However, when I measure hub to fender I’m about 1 inch lower in the front. Is this shim the best option to use when wanting to level without having to crank up the preload and sacrifice CO performance? Also if the shims are the best route in this case would it be wise to also add a diff drop? Thanks you in advance!
Man, I hate to be the doubter but thats too much for the front- post a pic of your cv angles and alignment sheet specs so all these people reading this write up know what doing this entails- those cv’s are hating life and your LCA bushings will not be far behind if it is jacked down like that. 4inch lift in the front is awsome but not safe or nice to the vital components
Hey Brenan:
I currently have a Pro Comp Nitro 3” front, 2” rear installed with Icon 1-3” rear shocks on my 5th gen 4Runner. She’s 2wd. I want to install Bilistein 6112 with 2 Ekstrom Shims each side, and add Icon 3” rear spring. Is this install possible or should I install these parts after I remove the Pro Comp Nitro Kit. I’m trying to achieve an extra inch of clearance from where it currently stands without causing any unnecessary stress to the vehicle.
I’m trying not to turn my 4Runner into the next Frankenstein.
Thanks.
Gabriel
Can you run 35’s with this setup?
I am currently running Cooper 35″ EVO MT Tires on this suspension, yes. You can see that post here.
Hey Brenan,
wanted to ask about ur Bumpstops with this much lift, I see the OEM rears in the pics are quit a distance form the axel, not sure on the front. Did you change them out or it’s just a minor detail. I’m leaning towards Energy suspensions rears (es8.9104R) for the front based on some forum positive posts, any comments? Looking for an economical solution vs the hi end ones out there. Possible write up soon?
Brian, I am running the Duro Bumps since this write-up. We have a few posts on their bump stops. You can find them at ToyotaBumpStops.com.
Front: https://trail4runner.com/2018/11/03/front-bump-stops-by-toyota-bump-stops/
Rear: https://trail4runner.com/2019/08/05/durobumps-rear-bump-stops-4runner/
No experience with the Energy Suspensions bump stops.
Brenan. Did ur UCAs hit your coilovers at full droop? I did the mod and that is what is happening to me. Still have about 1.5 to 2 inches of down travel after the mod which is not much. Thinking of going long travel once a kit I have been eying Is made available.
Off the ground, yeah. Once you put the 4Runner back on the ground it will not hit at full droop. Unless you are jumping your 4Runer or something, but then you have bigger problems to worry about.
Think if I spin the springs a half a turn it may just clear. Right now I am hitting dead center in the middle of one of the coils. Will let you know if it works. Not going to be easy. If you know any easy ways to do it shoot me an email. Thanks for the confirmation on your end.
This is literally my GOTO place for all 4runner related info and it’s helped me a ton with building my T4R! I just installed the ICON stage 2 on mine and I wish I could do these shims and 700lb springs but it won’t fit in my garage. My question is, DRIVERS. SIDE. LEAN! Obviously I can fix the front lean by adding a shim or two but how would you go about adjusting the rear coil? It’s a whole inch lower! Coilovers are maxed out with 2” of thread and I’d hate to lower it on the passenger side
SO I HAVE A 2011 LIMITED WITH TOYTEC BOSS EXTENDED COILOVERS IN THE FRONT AND SEEMS THE REAR SITS HIGHER AND I WANTED TO ADJUST THE FRONT I READ THIS THREAD BEFORE AND CALLED TOYTEC AND THEY SAID NOT TO ADD SHIMS? THEY SAIDS FROM CENTER OF HUB TO THE FENDER I BELIEVE ITS NOT TO GO BEYOND 23IN? IF I REMEMBER. AND IHAVE THE DIFF DROP IN THE FRONT. IM JUST TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHAT I CAN AND CANT DO. THANK YOU
Hey Brenan, i had a quick question for you. im good with everything on my 4runner except the kdss. It says 1.5 to 2.5 turns maximum. how many turns did you actually do, if you could remember. the marks on the shutter valves are opposite in the picture if that is yours. so i didnt know if you turned it 1.5 or the 2.5 turns. if you could let me know that would be great.
We did go the full 2.5 turns and had no problems.
@Brenan @trail4r With this added inch lift to Icons, are you capable of running stock front/rear bumpers with 315/70/17s? I’m sure you’ll need BMC done no matter what, but was wondering if I would be able to run the 4.5″ suspension adjustment with little to none cutting the bumpers. In a matter of time, I’ll eventually get front/rear bumpers but I won’t have the funds to replace everything all at once.
So after reading this I contacted David and order 4 shims (2 for each side). Took to my shop last Friday and because My preload was pretty maxed out on my Icon stage 3 setup when they added the shims the cv axle popped out on front passenger side. Luckily I was still at the shop. But as you stated it was at max droop. They ultimately removed a shin for short term. Order a 4” lift kit to work with my Icon stage 3 set up. Lowering the preload on my coilovers and added knuckles, crossmembers diff drop etc. supposedly will give me the height I am looking for but more importantly the wheel travel I want when Offroad. Create less stress on my axle and provide a better ride. Here’s 🤞🏻
keep us updated, would love to see a blog post overview on your setup and you can make a quick $100 for sharing.
Hey Brenan,
Thanks for the response about the bolts. Did you adjust your preload at all while adding the shims? Or did you leave the height adjustment (pre load – height) on the coilovers with adding shims or only add shims and left the height alone from whatever icon had it set at?
Any idea where you went to on preload measurement? (I think icon states not to go beyond 2.13″).
Appreciate the feedback
We had already adjusted our shims to a 3″ lift in the front, I don’t recall exactly how many threads or height that is on the body. Then we installed the shims, and then I finally adjusted them up one more time for a total of 4.5″ of lift in the front.
I have a leveled 2016 4Runner and I bought the 3/8″ Strut spacers so I can add a lift over my Fox 2.0 coilovers to gain at least an inch more or close. I don’t know if adding these spacers are a good idea over my Fox 2.0 coilovers.
I was wondering how is your ride quality with the overland spring? I got the same setup on my 4Runner but every time I go over a bump on the street the front seem to absorb pretty good but I can feel the back jump everytime , will the icon v2.5 rear shock with cdcv fix it since you can adjust the damping
Bolo, I also went with the 3″ rear springs with a Stage 7 Kit and feel the bounce but only when I’m not fully loaded in the rear. Turning the CDCV response all the way soft seems to help a bit but the heavier coils are designed specifically for that added overland weight. Without it they’re just a high compression spring with nothing to weight them.
Bolo – Did you put the shims and springs on yourself, or did you have a shop do it? If a shop, did they have any issues getting it aligned? As mentioned above, the shop I was planning on using is telling me they won’t be able to get it aligned with two shims per side.
I install it myself haven’t took it to do an alignment yet
Brennan – Did you do an alignment after installing all of the components? I am being told there is no way they can get a good alignment with adding two shims to each side. Thoughts?
Being told by who? I did alignment and it was not all green checks but it doesn’t pull left or right. You may need to have them realign a couple times but they will get it right eventually.
The big name shop I was planning on using to do this mod told me they wouldn’t install two shims per side, and ensure it is level (or near level) with the 3 inch springs in the back because there is no way it can be aligned correctly. They said something about the lower arms.
Thanks for this Post. I’ll be doing this Mod pretty soon as my Icons need to be serviced and just found a crack on each coilover spring. I do pack a ton of weight and regret not running the overland spring right from the get go. I have KDSS and a Stage 5 Icon set up , with the adjustable track bar, tubular uca’s, and billet rear torsion bars.
My question is if you have any experience or feedback with the Stock Icon 13’x650lb coilover spring changing to a 14’x700lb spring.
I do carry weight in the front ( winch , bumper, sliders). enough to merit the upgrade IMO, but was curious your thoughts on the longer spring and overcoming the spring with preload with this upgrade you’ve posted.
I currently have my coilovers set @ 3″ (obviously not recommended) , but have lost easily an 1inch in lift with the weight.
thanks again for your post.
What is he max tire size you can clear after doing this mod and the body chop and fender trim? Still only 285/75/r17 ?
I currently have the Icon Stage 2 with the Icon 2 inch springs in the back with Icon billet UCAs. Just so I am clear, adding two shims to each side up front and the 3 inch spring in the back will give me 1 inch of additional height across the board? What happens if I only add the shims up front and keep the 2 inch springs in the back? Reverse rake? From a load perspective, I may add a roof rack at some point, but generally my load will be in the cargo area and consist of either nothing, luggage, sports equipment bags, the occasional ice chest, groceries, a couple of saddles and tack, so overall not a lot of weight or mainly no weight at any given time. Overall the goal is to add more height, but I don’t want to experience sag in the back.
Yeah, two .25″ (.5″) shims add an inch of height in the front. I wouldn’t go shims only upfront without 3″ spring in the back unless I am missing something. We added ours for height as well but we were approaching a max on the preload. The 3″ springs were actually impressive when came to daily driver perspective, not too much bounce at all, a little over whips and dips around town but pretty smooth overall. Our load is similar to your projected load and have not experienced sag at all in the back. Once we install front and rear bumpers, well see what happens but it sounds like you would really like this setup, I do.
Okay so how did you order? How many shims did you install? 2 on one side 2 on the other with preload to compensate KDSS? Also I’m about to order shims. So how many shims come in a package? Just 1 shim? If I order 4 shims seems like 4 sets of bolts will come. Wondering if I can just buy 4 shims with 2 sets of bolts if they can special order and be less money since I do not need 4 sets of bolts. Correct me if I’m wrong.
Ryan, all good. So Ekstrom just launched a new website. Check it out here.
Trying to figure out if I need new bolts for my coil overs? Did you reuse old ones?
No, Ekstrom includes those in the kit.
Okay so how did you order? How many shims did you install? 2 on one side 2 on the other with preload to compensate KDSS? Also I’m about to order shims. So how many shims come in a package? Just 1 shim? If I order 4 shims seems like 4 sets of bolts will come. Wondering if I can just buy 4 shims with 2 sets of bolts if they can special order and be less money since I do not need 4 sets of bolts. Correct me if I’m wrong.
Hey Brenan,
Thanks for the response about the bolts. Did you adjust your preload at all while adding the shims? Or did you leave the height adjustment (pre load – height) on the coilovers with adding shims or only add shims and left the height alone from whatever icon had it set at?
Any idea where you went to on preload measurement? (I think icon states not to go beyond 2.13″).
Appreciate the feedback
3”
Yeah, you should be fine. It’s really hard to say without seeing the exact setup in person though.
Brenan,
Yes….
I meant to say two of the .25” spacers totaling .500 on each front side. Do you think that will level it out or will it be too much? I was told that one .25” will give me half of inch of lift and two of the .25” will give me 1” or did I get it wrong? My plan was to lift up the front 1 more inch….
It might be too much. You would be at 3.65″? What height old man emu coil spring do you have in the rear?
Hay Brenan,
Sounds like I’m about to do the same thing to my 2011 4runner….
I went with 3”(2.65) bilstein 5100 for the front with stock springs, diff drop, and 3” bilstein 5100 back with old man emu coil spring. Drove it for two weeks about 500 miles and didn’t really like how it looks. My back end in my opinion was too high. So I took it back to the shop and have them order 2 .500 spacer for the front. (Not yet installed). So I was wondering how did yours level out so far????
Is my setup similar to yours ????
Steve, my truck leveled out fine with a bit of adjustment on the Icons in the front. It would really help if you had a fully adjustable coilover like Icon, KING, etc. If you can afford it, I would go the fully adjustable coilover route (only if you need it). If you add two spacers in the front (.500 would be two inches of total lift) Did you mean .25″ spacers which would have been 1″ of total lift? The .500 might lift too much in the front over the old man emu coil spring, depending on the size… if that’s what you meant.
Hey Brenan,
Thanks for the response about the bolts. Did you adjust your preload at all while adding the shims? Or did you leave the height adjustment (pre load) on the coilovers alone and only add shims?
Any idea where you went to on preload measurement? (I think icon states not to go beyond 2.13″).
Appreciate the feedback
did you have to get extended bolts for the icon coilovers after installing the shims so they could reach?
If so could you tell me where you found them?
Mike, the bolts were longer, and they were included with the shims from Ekstrom.
What’s the effect of having that much lift up front? Everything I had read suggested no more than 3″ over stock, due to stressing the CV axles too much at any additional angle.
Love the website, I have about 30 tabs open right now that I need to read 🙂
The major concern is the CV angle. Here is a blurb from another comment response on the site (after the shims): After I put the wheel spacers and brakes on and had the truck off the ground, I noticed my driver side wheel would not spin freely. I pulled the wheel off, checked the spacers and brakes and everything appeared to be fine. I realized that my tire/wheel was at full droop and probably had something to do with the added shims on top of the coils, plus maxing out the preload on the Icons a week before. After this, I am sitting at roughly 4.5″ of lift in the front. My CV axle, at close to full droop, was having a hard time rotating which is eventually going to put stress on the CV boot. Once the boot has enough stress, it will break open causing debris and all kinds of goodies to enter. Once this happens, the CV joint will be damaged. To avoid all this from happening, I am now buying the diff drop. That post here. Many guys would have said I told you so, yeah they are right. Installing a drop in a couple weeks.
Do you have any comments on the results of adding the 2 front shims to the icon coilovers? I have been searching to see if anyone had done this on a 4Runner but everything I read said that it was not recommended to add spacers to coilovers. What happened to the ride quality? How is the suspension geometry and front alignment? Are there any pictures after the install? Thanks
Jeff, I will update the post with some after shots, thanks. Ride quality was not affected. Alignment was fine after the install as well, seriously. The truck drove straight as an arrow. Directly from Ekstrom Design on the shim geometry. “The sweet spot in the front suspension is in the center of the stroke. If you push the assembly down too far and out of this area you’re changing both geometry and overall feel. We only recommend using up to 2 shims per side in order to fine tune stance without exceeding overall range. Shims measure .250″ thick and are installed in the middle of the pivot, between the frame and where the tire makes contact to the ground.” Sorry for the canned response but I think David said it best. If you have any concerns, reach out to Ekstrom Designs directly.
Glad to see the big lifts on KDSS equipped T4Rs! Have you noticed any negatives with the KDSS functionality after this much lift? Has it impacted max travel, articulation or KDSS functionality? I’d love to see a pic of the rear KDSS piston and sway bar to see what the angles look like now when it’s all connected. Or a video of it in action! 😛 I love the way the KDSS functions on my stock suspension, but looking to lift it soon and want to know the limits.
Devon, KDSS still works. Nothing has changed there. For the rear, you may want to extend your rear brake lines and add an adjustable track bar depending on how high you go. Also, new upper and lower links would be nice but not “needed”. Every truck is a little different so only you will know how your truck drives and what your wheel alignment looks like after the install. We bought a set of extended brake lines from MetalTech 4×4 to increase our range and will be installing soon. We also purchase an ICON track bar to correct our wheel alignment. The wheel alignment in the rear was not off by much but enough to buy one for the piece of mind. For the front, you also may want to drop the diff to correct your cv axle angle (diff drop kit). We ordered a Dobinsons diff drop (DD59-527K) kit, and should be installing that soon as well. You can also get the Total Chaos diff drop (TC-87200) kit. Down travel may be affected depending on how much lift you have on your KDSS system. The more lift you have, the less travel you have on the rear suspension. KDSS is a great option for on-road and off-road to some degree. If you are sticking to light FS roads and mild trails, you should be fine. If you are looking for more advanced trails, you may want to look at removing KDSS. For me, for now, I am keeping the KDSS intact. If at some point I decide straight axel, then KDSS might take a hike as well. That is a story for another day. We might end up with a T40R looking build at that point. Check out the T40R build by RSG, pretty bad ass.
Thanks for the reply! And yea… that build is sick. I’d love to do all sorts to it, but it’s still my daily driver. I think i’m pretty set to do a 2.5 – 3″, but when I saw this thread I couldn’t help but drool a little more lol.
My current setup is Toytec Boss 3″ front / 2″ rear with Total Chaos UCA. as you all mentioned in one of your articles not every 4Runner is the same, in my case after lifting it I noticed it was leaning on the drivers side, Toytec offers a (.25″ thick Front Lift Top Plate Single Spacer) to correct the lean, I had it installed and everything was good to go.
So my question to you all, if I decide to go with ICON-stage2 setup (not including the UCA) does this address the lean or do I have to get 3 spacers on the driver’s side?
If you have the Total Chaos UCAs, just buy the Icon stage 2 with extended travel coils and adjust your ride height to match on both sides. Adjustable coils should make up for lean, not shims or spacers. You will have more accuracy with adjustable coils. GO with the stage 2 coilovers in the front and then go from there.
Dang! I was hoping the KDSS valve trick would work! I guess once you’ve removed the KDSS it gets easier subsequent times. I’m still not looking forward to it though.
Jay,
OK, so here is the skinny. I got off the phone with Metal Tech today and we did do everything correct. The only difference in our install and other first-time installs was our addition of the strut shims and the preload on our coils. We already had a preload on our coils at about 3″ from the Icon shipped 2″ preload. With the addition of an inch preload on the coils and another .5″ addition of the strut shims, this set our struts a little bit higher than usual. It all depends on what you are doing with your suspension. At the end of the day, every 4Runner is a little different (oddly enough) so it really is on a case by case basis. Because we had so much extra height going in, it just made things tighter. By releasing the valve 2.5 turns, it did allow the ability to not remove the driver side KDSS but on the passenger side, it is stiffer for sure. Releasing the KDSS valves did help, but to what degree does this KDSS suspension just “drop” and give us the freedom of day to play around and have fun! Again, every situation is different, so I would still recommend this but if you have a ton of extra height going in, it will be tight.