ShrockWorks Rock Sliders Installation & Overview
ShrockWorks is a Texas-based company that has been in the business of fabricating front and rear bumpers, rock sliders, skid plates, and miscellaneous parts for Toyota 4Runners, FJ Cruisers, Tacomas, and Tundras for ~15 years.
When shopping for rock sliders for my 4Runner, I was pleased to learn that ShrockWorks had some of the most budget-friendly sliders that I’d found, while still incorporating all the features that I was looking for.
ShrockWorks sliders are well designed, strong, nicely finished, and easy to install.
Specifications & Construction
- Weight: 45 lbs each
- Materials: 1.75” x .120” wall round tubing, 2” x .1875” wall square tubing & gusseted 1/4” mounting plates.
ShrockWorks sliders have a unique mounting plate design that allows them to bolt to the sides and bottom of the frame for increased strength. This differs from the rock sliders of some other manufacturers, that bolt only to the side of the frame.
Options & Features
ShrockWorks offers two styles of rock sliders for 5th Gen 4Runners.
- Dimpled Tread Plate: Check Price
- Three Support Angled Up
Dimpled Tread Plate sliders
The “Dimpled Tread Plate” style sliders provide a flat stepping surface that can be used for vehicle entry and exit, while still providing the protection and strength of a true rock slider.
Two tread plates are welded to each slider, in a position that corresponds with the front and rear doors. Each tread plate has punched holes with raised “dimple die” patterns, that present a stepping surface with good traction, while also increasing the rigidity of the sliders.
The Dimpled Tread Plate sliders extend approximately 5 inches out from the square tubing beneath the rocker panels.
Three Support Angled Up Sliders
The “Three Support Angled Up” style sliders extend out and up at a 30-degree angle. This angle makes for a more compact slider, as compared to the dimpled tread plate style.
The angled sliders have three tubes that are welded perpendicular to the square tubing, and evenly divide the “hoop” area of the sliders into quarters.
Although they don’t have a tread plate, the angled sliders can still be used as a step.
The Three Support Angled Up sliders extend approximately 4 inches out, and 2 inches up from the square tubing beneath the rocker panels.
- Bare steel
- Powder Coat
Both slider styles are available in three finishes – bare steel, black powder coat, and textured black powder coat.
Choosing bare steel is a good option if you want to paint and touch up the sliders with a rattle can. It also reduces the default cost of the sliders by $65.
Standard powder coat
The standard powder coat is a nice, satin black. A black textured powder coat only adds $5 more to the price, and this was my choice. It not only looks great, but it also provides some extra grip, which is especially helpful on the angled style sliders. The quality of the ShrockWorks powder coating is impressive.
ShrockWorks also offers powder-coated steel rocker trim panels that can be installed on SR5 and Limited 5th Gen 4Runners, for a clean and finished look when rock sliders are installed.
Cost, Availability & Shipping
ShrockWorks typically has their rock sliders for 5th gen 4Runners in stock, and ready for shipment. If they are out of stock, it’s not usually for more than two weeks.
Sliders can be shipped at a cost of ~$80-$100, anywhere in the continental United States.
They can also be picked up at the ShrockWorks shop in Houston, Texas from 9:00am – 5:00pm CST, Monday through Friday.
ShrockWorks Rock Sliders Install
- Gas Tank Skid Plate and Tank Strap Removal
- Put the Slider in Place
- Remove Plastic Plugs in Frame Rails
- Fasten Main Legs of Sliders to The Frame
- Fasten Angled Bracket to Frame and Slider
- Put the Slider in Place
- Fasten Front Leg of Slider to the Frame
- Drill Frame and Fasten Bottom of Slider Front Leg to The Frame
- Remove and Clearance Plastic Frame Plugs
- Modify, Feed & Fasten Stick Nut Hardware for Rear Leg to Frame
Items Needed for Installation
- The Sliders: Check Prices
- 3/8” ratchet
- 3/8” socket extension
- 12mm 3/8” drive socket
- 13mm 3/8” drive socket
- 14mm 3/8” drive socket
- 14mm combination wrench
- Flathead screwdriver
- Adjustable pliers
- Electric drill
- 3/8 drill bit
- Metal file (optional)
- Floor jack (optional, but recommended)
- Adjustable jack stands (optional, but recommended – 2, 4, or 6-ton capacity stands, for install height that depends on vehicle height)
- Thread locker (optional, but recommended)
Installing the Sliders
If possible, perform the installation of the sliders with a minimal amount of fuel in the gas tank. I suggest this because some of the gas tank retention hardware will be temporarily removed, and in doing so, the gas tank will dropdown.
A floor jack can be used to support the gas tank, but since gasoline weighs approximately 6 pounds per gallon, a mostly empty tank will be a lot lighter than a full one.
The ShrockWorks rock sliders include a bag full of 10.9 grade metric and standard bolts, flat washers, lock washers, and “stick nuts”. This is all the hardware that is required to install the sliders.
The stick nuts are standard nuts which have a thin, sheet metal “stick” welded to them. The stick portion is bent in a manner that allows the nut to be fished through a hole in the frame and then attached to a bolt that fastens the rock slider mounting plate to the frame.
You might have heard that stick nuts are difficult to deal with. I didn’t find that was the case, and I’ve installed two sets of ShrockWorks sliders now. Stick nuts require a little thinking when it comes to the angle of the dangle (i.e., bending of the “stick”) that is required for the nut to line up with a bolt when it is inserted into the frame. The number of stick nuts required is less than half of the total fasteners, with the other bolts going into threaded inserts that are already in the frame from the factory.
Installing the Driver Side Slider
STEP 1. GAS TANK SKID PLATE AND TANK STRAP REMOVAL
Starting on the driver side, use a ratchet and 12mm socket to remove three bolts from the gas tank skid plate, which are highlighted in green:
Place a floor jack under the gas tank, and lift the jack so that it is just snug against the tank.
Use a 14mm combination wrench to loosen the bolt that secures the gas tank strap.
Slowly lower the floor jack a few inches. The gas tank will drop with the jack. Remove the tank strap bolt. It helps to pull down on the gas tank skid plate, to allow enough room to remove the strap bolt.
STEP 2. PUT THE SLIDER IN PLACE
Place the square tubing of the driver side slider on to two evenly spaced jack stands. Slide the jack stands and slider under the 4Runner, and close to the spot on the frame rail, where they’ll be bolted up. Adjust the height of the jack stands so that the sliders are near the installed height.
STEP 3. REMOVE PLASTIC PLUGS IN FRAME RAILS
Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the round plastic plug from the frame, which is located beneath where the front mounting plate will attach to the side of the frame. This plug won’t be reinstalled.
Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the oblong plastic plug from the frame, which is located beneath where the rear mounting plate will attach to the side of the frame. This plug is right above the previously removed gas tank strap bolt. This plug won’t be reinstalled.
STEP 4. FASTEN MAIN LEGS OF SLIDERS TO THE FRAME
Move the rear leg of the slider into place against the frame. Put a few drops of thread locker on the original gas tank strap bolt, and insert the bolt into the hole of the strap.
Use the floor jack to gently raise the gas tank back up, into position, and then hand tighten the gas tank strap bolt. Once you’re sure that the bolt is going in easily, and not cross-threaded, use the 14mm combination wrench to completely tighten the bolt.
Put your thinking cap on, and bend two stick nuts so that they can be fed into the hole that is in front of the rear leg, and lined up with the holes in the rear mounting plate. It may take a little trial and error in order to get the bend just right.
In the lowest hole of the rear mounting plate, use one of the silver-colored bolts, with a flat washer and lock washer on it, along with a few drops thread locker, and a 14mm socket to lightly tighten things together. The top bolt will be installed in a later step.
Move to the front leg, which is secured by three of the gold-colored bolts. Before threading the bolts into the existing threaded inserts in the frame, add a few drops of thread locker, a flat washer, and a lock washer to each. Start with the bottom bolt on the angled portion of the mounting plate, and tighten all the bolts with a 13mm socket.
STEP 5. FASTEN ANGLED BRACKET TO FRAME AND SLIDER
The hardware bag that comes with ShrockWorks sliders includes an angled steel bracket, with two holes in it. This angled bracket is for the rear leg of the driver side slider, and connects the side of the frame to the tab on top of the bracket, as a sort of bolt-on gusset.
Use one of the stick nuts and a silver-colored bolt, washer, and lock washer to lightly fasten the bracket to the frame, with a 14mm socket. Don’t forget the thread locker.
Attach the other end of the bracket to the slider using a silver-colored bolt, washer, lock washer, and standard nut. A 14mm socket, 14mm wrench, and thread locker should be used here.
Firmly tighten the two silver bolts on the flat portion of the rear mounting plate, which were previously just lightly tightened.
Put a few drops of thread locker on the three bolts that hold the gas tank skid, and use a 12mm socket to reinstall them.
If desired, use a pair of pliers to bend and push the free end of the stick nuts used to fasten the rear of the slider, completely into the frame. Re-insert the plastic plug that was previously removed.
That completes the installation of the driver side slider.
Installing the Passenger Side Slider
STEP 6. PUT THE SLIDER IN PLACE
As with the installation of the sliders on the driver side, place the square tubing of the passenger side slider on to two evenly spaced jack stands. Slide the jack stands and slider under the 4Runner, and close to the spot on the frame rail, where they’ll be bolted up. Adjust the height of the jack stands so that the sliders are near the installed height.
STEP 7. FASTEN FRONT LEG OF SLIDER TO THE FRAME
The front leg of the slider is fastened to the frame on the flat portion of the mounting plate using two gold-colored bolts, flat washers, lock washers, and a few drops of thread locker. These bolts are lightly tightened using a 13mm socket.
STEP 8. DRILL FRAME & FASTEN BOTTOM OF SLIDER FRONT LEG TO FRAME
The bottom, angled portion of the mounting plate is fastened to the frame using a silver colored bolt, flat washer, and lock washer, along with a stick nut. There isn’t a hole in the frame that lines up with this fastener, so one must be created.
Use a drill and 3/8” drill bit to drill a hole in the frame, using the center of the elongated slot in the angle portion of the mounting plate as sort of a guide/template.
Insert a stick nut onto the square hole of the frame that is closest to the newly drilled hole, then thread a silver-colored bolt with flat washer and lock nut into the stick nut. Lightly tighten the bolt with a 14mm socket.
STEP 9. REMOVE AND CLEARANCE PLASTIC FRAME PLUGS
The rear leg of the passenger side requires three silver bolts and stick nuts to fasten it to the frame.
The stick nuts can be bent and fished through the frame in two different spots – both of which are normally covered by plastic plugs.
Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the plastic plug immediately to the right of the where the mounting flange will be connected to the frame.
I decided that I wanted to reinstall this plug, but because the mounting flange partially covers the hole, the plug cannot be reinstalled without sanding/filing off one edge of the plug head. If desired, the plug can be left out – the frame has plenty of other, open factory holes in it already.
STEP 10. MODIFY, FEED & FASTEN STICK NUT HARDWARE FOR REAR LEG TO FRAME
I determined that it was going to be tricky to bend/fish the stick into position for the lowest bolt hole, so rather than doing that, I popped the plug out of the underside of the frame, which was located right next to the bolt hole. Because this is a smaller hole, the square head of the stick nut wouldn’t pass through it. My belt sander made quick work of rounding the head of the stick nut and reducing to a size that would fit through the hole in question.
Bend three stick nuts in a manner that they can be fished through the holes in the frame, apply a few drops of thread locker to each bolt, and thread them into the stick nuts, with each bolt having a flat washer and lock washer.
Use a 14mm socket to firmly tighten all three bolts.
Use a pair of pliers to bend and push the free end of the stick nuts completely into the frame. Re-insert the plastic plugs that were previously removed.
Use 13mm and 14mm sockets to firmly tighten the bolts in the front leg of the slider.
That completes the installation of the passenger side slider.