ShrockWorks Rock Sliders Installation & Overview
ShrockWorks is a Texas-based company that has been in the business of fabricating front and rear bumpers, rock sliders, skid plates, and miscellaneous parts for Toyota 4Runners, FJ Cruisers, Tacomas, and Tundras for ~15 years.
When shopping for rock sliders for my 4Runner, I was pleased to learn that ShrockWorks had some of the most budget-friendly sliders that I’d found, while still incorporating all the features that I was looking for.
ShrockWorks sliders are well-designed, strong, nicely finished, and easy to install.
Find it online (other options):
- UPDATE: Shrockworks is no longer in business (Jan 2023).
- Browse other Rock Sliders here: Top rock slider companies or check out the what to consider when buying rock sliders overview post.
- Dimpled Tread Plate
- Three Support Angled Up
Specifications & Construction
- Weight: 45 lbs each
- Materials: 1.75” x .120” wall round tubing, 2” x .1875” wall square tubing & gusseted 1/4” mounting plates.
ShrockWorks sliders have a unique mounting plate design that allows them to bolt to the sides and bottom of the frame for increased strength. This differs from the rock sliders of some other manufacturers, that bolt only to the side of the frame.
Options & Features
ShrockWorks offers two styles of rock sliders for 5th Gen 4Runners.
- Dimpled Tread Plate
- Three Support Angled Up
Dimpled Tread Plate sliders
The “Dimpled Tread Plate” style sliders provide a flat stepping surface that can be used for vehicle entry and exit, while still providing the protection and strength of a true rock slider.
Two tread plates are welded to each slider, in a position that corresponds with the front and rear doors. Each tread plate has punched holes with raised “dimple die” patterns, that present a stepping surface with good traction, while also increasing the rigidity of the sliders.
The Dimpled Tread Plate sliders extend approximately 5 inches out from the square tubing beneath the rocker panels.
Three Support Angled Up Sliders
The “Three Support Angled Up” style sliders extend out and up at a 30-degree angle. This angle makes for a more compact slider, as compared to the dimpled tread plate style.
The angled sliders have three tubes that are welded perpendicular to the square tubing, and evenly divide the “hoop” area of the sliders into quarters.
Although they don’t have a tread plate, the angled sliders can still be used as a step.
The Three Support Angled Up sliders extend approximately 4 inches out, and 2 inches up from the square tubing beneath the rocker panels.
- Bare steel
- Powder Coat
Both slider styles are available in three finishes – bare steel, black powder coat, and textured black powder coat.
Choosing bare steel is a good option if you want to paint and touch up the sliders with a rattle can. It also reduces the default cost of the sliders by $65.
Standard powder coat
The standard powder coat is a nice, satin black. A black textured powder coat only adds $5 more to the price, and this was my choice. It not only looks great, but it also provides some extra grip, which is especially helpful on the angled style sliders. The quality of the ShrockWorks powder coating is impressive.
ShrockWorks also offers powder-coated steel rocker trim panels that can be installed on SR5 and Limited 5th Gen 4Runners, for a clean and finished look when rock sliders are installed.
Cost, Availability & Shipping
ShrockWorks typically has their rock sliders for 5th gen 4Runners in stock, and ready for shipment. If they are out of stock, it’s not usually for more than two weeks.
Sliders can be shipped at a cost of ~$80-$100, anywhere in the continental United States.
They can also be picked up at the ShrockWorks shop in Houston, Texas from 9:00am – 5:00pm CST, Monday through Friday.
Items Needed for Installation
- 3/8” ratchet
- 3/8” socket extension
- 12mm 3/8” drive socket
- 13mm 3/8” drive socket
- 14mm 3/8” drive socket
- 14mm combination wrench
- Flathead screwdriver
- Adjustable pliers
- Electric drill
- 3/8 drill bit
- Metal file (optional)
- Floor jack (optional, but recommended)
- Adjustable jack stands (optional, but recommended – 2, 4, or 6-ton capacity stands, for install height that depends on vehicle height)
- Thread locker (optional, but recommended)
Installing the Sliders
If possible, perform the installation of the sliders with a minimal amount of fuel in the gas tank. I suggest this because some of the gas tank retention hardware will be temporarily removed, and in doing so, the gas tank will dropdown.
A floor jack can be used to support the gas tank, but since gasoline weighs approximately 6 pounds per gallon, a mostly empty tank will be a lot lighter than a full one.
The ShrockWorks rock sliders include a bag full of 10.9 grade metric and standard bolts, flat washers, lock washers, and “stick nuts”. This is all the hardware that is required to install the sliders.
The stick nuts are standard nuts which have a thin, sheet metal “stick” welded to them. The stick portion is bent in a manner that allows the nut to be fished through a hole in the frame and then attached to a bolt that fastens the rock slider mounting plate to the frame.
You might have heard that stick nuts are difficult to deal with. I didn’t find that was the case, and I’ve installed two sets of ShrockWorks sliders now. Stick nuts require a little thinking when it comes to the angle of the dangle (i.e., bending of the “stick”) that is required for the nut to line up with a bolt when it is inserted into the frame. The number of stick nuts required is less than half of the total fasteners, with the other bolts going into threaded inserts that are already in the frame from the factory.
Installing the Driver Side Slider
STEP 1. GAS TANK SKID PLATE AND TANK STRAP REMOVAL
Starting on the driver side, use a ratchet and 12mm socket to remove three bolts from the gas tank skid plate, which are highlighted in green:
Place a floor jack under the gas tank, and lift the jack so that it is just snug against the tank.
Use a 14mm combination wrench to loosen the bolt that secures the gas tank strap.
Slowly lower the floor jack a few inches. The gas tank will drop with the jack. Remove the tank strap bolt. It helps to pull down on the gas tank skid plate, to allow enough room to remove the strap bolt.
STEP 2. PUT THE SLIDER IN PLACE
Place the square tubing of the driver side slider on to two evenly spaced jack stands. Slide the jack stands and slider under the 4Runner, and close to the spot on the frame rail, where they’ll be bolted up. Adjust the height of the jack stands so that the sliders are near the installed height.
The front leg of the slider will line up with the cross-member of the frame, while the rear leg will bolt to the frame right above the gas tank strap/bolt.
STEP 3. REMOVE PLASTIC PLUGS IN FRAME RAILS
Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the round plastic plug from the frame, which is located beneath where the front mounting plate will attach to the side of the frame. This plug won’t be reinstalled.
Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the oblong plastic plug from the frame, which is located beneath where the rear mounting plate will attach to the side of the frame. This plug is right above the previously removed gas tank strap bolt. This plug won’t be reinstalled.
Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the round plastic plug from the frame, which is just in front of the oblong plug that was removed in the previous step. This plug will be reinstalled.
STEP 4. FASTEN MAIN LEGS OF SLIDERS TO THE FRAME
Move the rear leg of the slider into place against the frame. Put a few drops of thread locker on the original gas tank strap bolt, and insert the bolt into the hole of the strap.
Use the floor jack to gently raise the gas tank back up, into position, and then hand tighten the gas tank strap bolt. Once you’re sure that the bolt is going in easily, and not cross-threaded, use the 14mm combination wrench to completely tighten the bolt.
Put your thinking cap on, and bend two stick nuts so that they can be fed into the hole that is in front of the rear leg, and lined up with the holes in the rear mounting plate. It may take a little trial and error in order to get the bend just right.
In the lowest hole of the rear mounting plate, use one of the silver-colored bolts, with a flat washer and lock washer on it, along with a few drops thread locker, and a 14mm socket to lightly tighten things together. The top bolt will be installed in a later step.
Move to the front leg, which is secured by three of the gold-colored bolts. Before threading the bolts into the existing threaded inserts in the frame, add a few drops of thread locker, a flat washer, and a lock washer to each. Start with the bottom bolt on the angled portion of the mounting plate, and tighten all the bolts with a 13mm socket.
STEP 5. FASTEN ANGLED BRACKET TO FRAME AND SLIDER
The hardware bag that comes with ShrockWorks sliders includes an angled steel bracket, with two holes in it. This angled bracket is for the rear leg of the driver side slider, and connects the side of the frame to the tab on top of the bracket, as a sort of bolt-on gusset.
Use one of the stick nuts and a silver-colored bolt, washer, and lock washer to lightly fasten the bracket to the frame, with a 14mm socket. Don’t forget the thread locker.
Attach the other end of the bracket to the slider using a silver-colored bolt, washer, lock washer, and standard nut. A 14mm socket, 14mm wrench, and thread locker should be used here.
Firmly tighten the two silver bolts on the flat portion of the rear mounting plate, which were previously just lightly tightened.
Put a few drops of thread locker on the three bolts that hold the gas tank skid, and use a 12mm socket to reinstall them.
If desired, use a pair of pliers to bend and push the free end of the stick nuts used to fasten the rear of the slider, completely into the frame. Re-insert the plastic plug that was previously removed.
That completes the installation of the driver side slider.
Installing the Passenger Side Slider
STEP 6. PUT THE SLIDER IN PLACE
As with the installation of the sliders on the driver side, place the square tubing of the passenger side slider on to two evenly spaced jack stands. Slide the jack stands and slider under the 4Runner, and close to the spot on the frame rail, where they’ll be bolted up. Adjust the height of the jack stands so that the sliders are near the installed height.
STEP 7. FASTEN FRONT LEG OF SLIDER TO THE FRAME
The front leg of the slider is fastened to the frame on the flat portion of the mounting plate using two gold-colored bolts, flat washers, lock washers, and a few drops of thread locker. These bolts are lightly tightened using a 13mm socket.
STEP 8. DRILL FRAME & FASTEN BOTTOM OF SLIDER FRONT LEG TO FRAME
The bottom, angled portion of the mounting plate is fastened to the frame using a silver colored bolt, flat washer, and lock washer, along with a stick nut. There isn’t a hole in the frame that lines up with this fastener, so one must be created.
Use a drill and 3/8” drill bit to drill a hole in the frame, using the center of the elongated slot in the angle portion of the mounting plate as sort of a guide/template.
Insert a stick nut onto the square hole of the frame that is closest to the newly drilled hole, then thread a silver-colored bolt with flat washer and lock nut into the stick nut. Lightly tighten the bolt with a 14mm socket.
STEP 9. REMOVE AND CLEARANCE PLASTIC FRAME PLUGS
The rear leg of the passenger side requires three silver bolts and stick nuts to fasten it to the frame.
The stick nuts can be bent and fished through the frame in two different spots – both of which are normally covered by plastic plugs.
Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the plastic plug immediately to the right of the where the mounting flange will be connected to the frame.
I decided that I wanted to reinstall this plug, but because the mounting flange partially covers the hole, the plug cannot be reinstalled without sanding/filing off one edge of the plug head. If desired, the plug can be left out – the frame has plenty of other, open factory holes in it already.
I used a belt sander to trim the plug, but a metal file or sanding block could be used to do the same.
STEP 10. MODIFY, FEED & FASTEN STICK NUT HARDWARE FOR REAR LEG TO FRAME
I determined that it was going to be tricky to bend/fish the stick into position for the lowest bolt hole, so rather than doing that, I popped the plug out of the underside of the frame, which was located right next to the bolt hole. Because this is a smaller hole, the square head of the stick nut wouldn’t pass through it. My belt sander made quick work of rounding the head of the stick nut and reducing to a size that would fit through the hole in question.
Bend three stick nuts in a manner that they can be fished through the holes in the frame, apply a few drops of thread locker to each bolt, and thread them into the stick nuts, with each bolt having a flat washer and lock washer.
Use a 14mm socket to firmly tighten all three bolts.
Use a pair of pliers to bend and push the free end of the stick nuts completely into the frame. Re-insert the plastic plugs that were previously removed.
Use 13mm and 14mm sockets to firmly tighten the bolts in the front leg of the slider.
That completes the installation of the passenger side slider.
Nice instructions. Just finished installing the painted dimpled tread plate on a 21 TRD Pro. Your write up was just what I needed. start to finish in under 2 hours. Satisfied customer of the Shrockworks product.
Just wanted to say THANK YOU for this install guide. Just had my shrockworks sliders delivered yesterday and this was super helpful in conjunction with the factory instructions.
I dropped a stick nut in my frame. FML.
Frederick, if you haven’t already done so, you might try popping out one of the nearby plastic frame plugs, and using a flexible magnetic pickup tool to retrieve it. These magnets inexpensive, and handy in lots of situations. You can pick them up at most auto part stores (O’Reilly, AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts, etc.). Your local hardware store may have one too.
Thanks for the tip! I initially tried that but of course it managed to fall all the way back by the shock mount. I’m going to have to find a longer/stronger magnet to grab it. If I didn’t have bad luck, I’d have no luck at all.
Would also like to know if these are compatible with KDSS. Still hasn’t been answered. Thanks!
I *think* the Shrockworks sliders are KDSS compatible, but I’d call them to get confirmation.
I don’t have KDSS on my 4R, but believe the left rear mount has a removable brace, to allow KDSS lines to run between it and the flat part of the mount that sits against the frame.
Also, this thread speaks to installing the Shrockworks sliders on a 4R with KDSS. Quite a few replies, and it seems like folks have done it without issue.
Can someone kindly confirm that these are KDSS compatible?
Sorry for the late reply, Matt. See my response to the post above yours.
Hello, can I get some images of the different look of the black powder coat vs black textured powder coat finishes? On the install thread, what finish is on the blue 4runner sliders? Can send to email below
Hey Luke. The angled sliders on the blue 4R (mine) are a textured powder that I had done locally. When I got the sliders, they had the Shrockworks non-textured black powder coat finish. Looked like a nice, satin black. The pics of the non-angled sliders in this article have the textured powder coat, as it comes from Shrockworks, if you choose that option. Either way, both of the powder coat finishes that Shrockworks offers are very well done.
The one question I can’t find answered anywhere is the material type for these sliders. Many sliders have moved to DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel) steel rails as opposed to the HREW (Hot Rolled Electric Weld) version which isn’t as strong. The cost of these rails is significantly better than many others and I can’t help but wonder if the lesser material is being used. Did you ask Shrockworks about this? I don’t see the material type/properties advertised on there website anywhere.
This is my top choice based in part on price, but I don’t want to skimp on quality.
Thanks in advance.
This is from the Shrockworks “2010-2020 4Runner Rock Sliders, 5th Generation” listing on their site:
“ShrockWorks rock sliders are extremely strong. They are constructed of 2″ square tube with a 0.1875″ wall and 1.75″ x .0.120″ wall DOM round tubing.”
This should settle the matter as it’s from the official source!
Hey Chris. The Shrockworks sliders are manufactured from ERW tubing. While DOM is technically stronger, and is dimensionally consistent with regard to wall thickness (required by some racing sanctioning bodies), ERW is stout too. Take a look at https://youtu.be/buu3Ytubp1s for a good comparison of the two, which shows similar strengths until there is more than 48 inches of unsupported tubing.
I would guess HREW. I installed a pair of the dimple tread plate ones on my 4runner last weekend. There was no evidence of weld line or any other defects visible through the powder coating though.
I think HREW / DOM is mostly a non issue for this application. They are plenty strong enough to hold humans standing on them and plenty strong enough to keep rocks from crushing your rocker panels / lower doors if you miss a line. My only point of concern would be the attachment to the frame rails. The square tube and brackets are sufficiently beefy, but it’s just 3/8″ and M8 bolts holding it to the frame (like 5 – 6 per side). If your frame gets really rusty (why should it?) you might tear out one of the nuts. This is likely an issue for all non welded sliders in this application.
For comparison, my last vehicle was a similarly weighted Jeep JKU. I put HREW sliders on that, and used them as part of the suspension often… Other than scratching up the powder coating there was no damage to them, i.e. no denting or deflection of the tubes.
Thanks Chris P
I actually heard back from Mark Wottlin at Shrockworks and he confirmed your suspicions. The round rails are HREW. This was his response:
“Chris, we use 1.75” x .120” HREW round tubing. You’re right in that it’s not as strong as DOM but the difference is minimal and our rock slider design puts the majority of the wear on the 3/16” wall square tube. We’ve had great success with this design. That said, if you want DOM, I’m happy to make them for you.”
He went on to answer more of my questions, but based on my anticipated driving needs and his advice, I agree that the HREW will be just fine for my needs. When I can, I’m going to get a set.
Hi eric I also too have the dimpled tread rocks rail I just recently, about two days ago had them installed. The question I have is after you installed them did you notice any change to your gas mileage? And also do you notice that the truck seems heavier with them installed ?
Hi EJ. I have the angled Shrockworks sliders that are on the Cavalry Blue Pro in the pics, while the dimpled tread versions are ones that I helped a buddy install on his Off Road. They’re similar in weight, and I didn’t see a noticeable drop in gas mileage, or driving feel. Even if there was a slight difference, I think that is greatly offset by the protection that the sliders provide.
I have a 2019 TRD Offroad with KDSS. Do these work with KDSS-equipped 4Runners? Also, most sliders seem to come at 20° angles where these are 30° I believe. I am looking at the three tube version (true slider). Overall I think they look great, but those stick nuts are my main hesitation on these. Does the stick portion just stay down there flopping around? Seems like it would rattle around and drive me crazy. Also is the logo a sticker, painted on, etc? Thanks for the great write up.
Joshua, the “angled” sliders from ShrockWorks are angled up at 30°. I have this style on my 4Runner (the Cavalry Blue one in the article photos), and like the fact that they’re more “compact” than the flat style.
The metal that makes up the “stick” on the stick nuts is fairly thick, and takes some effort to bend. I tucked mine up into the frame holes, and it doesn’t make any noise.
The white ShrockWorks logo in the pics is just a sticker, and doesn’t comes on the sliders.
Nice write up. I bought the Shrockworks slider with the dimpled tread plate and installed it a few weeks ago. I have a 2017 Limited, so I opted for the trail rocker panels too. 2 of the stick nuts really sucked to install, but overall the rockers and sliders were a simple install. The slider works great as a step too as my wife and kids all think it is easier to get up into the 4Runner now. Only real complaint I had was on the trail rockers and the lack of some sort of rear cap. It looks odd without it.
Thanks, Jeraf. I don’t have any experience with the trail rockers, so I can’t speak to that, but have now installed two sets of ShrockWorks sliders, and found them to be a pretty easy install. They’re also very nicely made and fit/function well.