Wireless Charging Station For Apple + Andriod Devices Setup + Step-By-Step Install For the 5th Gen 4Runner
Have you ever taken a trip or gone to work only to realize you forgot to grab your charging cord?
Maybe you just hate having cable clutter in your 4Runner. Well, if you’re one of those people, then this easy modification is for you.
Today we’ll be covering how to add a wireless charger to your T4R using some simple tools and accessories. Some of the benefits of having this would include not having to worry about forgetting your charger and being able to charge a variety of devices (must be able to charge through induction).
There aren’t necessarily any negatives to adding a wireless charger since it will not be visible and would always be there when you need it. And it can all be done in a single afternoon, with simple hand tools and under $50.
Compatible Smart Devices For Wireless Charging
- Apple/iOS: iPhone 11/ XR/ X/ 8 + AirPods with wireless charging case
- Google/Andriod: Pixel 4 + Pixel 3
- Any other device that fits inside the little cubby section with wireless charging
Required Parts + Tools You’ll Need For Setup
- Wireless Charging Transmitter Module (3 Coil Model): Check Price
- Meknic Car Dash Cam Hardwire Kit: Check Price
- Phillips #2 Screwdriver
- Double-Sided Tape
- Zip Ties
Optional Items For Install:
Step 1. Remove Side Trim + AC Controls
The side pieces should be easy to remove.
Simply pry them off using a bit of pressure, or you could use the trim removal tools. You can pull straight out on the sides of the dash panels using the palms of your hands and tips of your fingers to remove the 4Runners dash.
Once they have been removed, you can simply remove the AC controls by pulling from the sides with slight pressure. Exercise caution and do not pull too hard, as it will have a single connector on the back.
Once removed, release the connector and set it to the side.
Step 2. Remove Center Console Shift Section
As shown in the picture above, carefully remove the center console.
Start by removing the shift knob and cup holders section first, then move on to remove the small filler piece towards the front of the center console.
Step 2A. Shift + Cup Holders Section Removed
For the second step, the section with the shifter and cup holders has to be removed.
If you have an SR5 model, you can get away with only having to rotate it 90 degrees. Manual transfer case models have to be fully removed.
Begin by removing the shift knobs by turning them counter-clockwise, then lifting them off.
Step 2B. Remove Filler Piece On Center Console
Once you have the cupholder section moved out of the way, there is a small filler piece right in front that you have to remove by pulling back and up.
Step 2C. Remove Head Unit + Power Outlet Tray
Now that the filler piece has been removed, it’s time to remove the two screws holding the head unit connectors and power outlet tray in place. Once removed, simply pull on the sides to release it.
Once it is free, disconnect the AUX/USB connector for the head unit, and the connector for the power outlet. Then you can proceed to fit the induction coil to the bottom side of the tray.
Double-sided tape is a great way to adhere it to the underside.
Ensure the coils are facing towards the plastic side, while also leaving about half an inch on the side where the micro-USB plug will connect to the coils.
Step 3. Set-Up & Route Wiring
Now that the induction coil has been attached, it is time to tackle the wiring side of the project.
You will need to find a keyed switch ignition circuit if you want it to be on when the car is on, and off when its off. If you prefer to keep it constantly on, then you have to find a constant on a circuit or wire it directly to the battery.
In this case, it will be a keyed switch ignition.
Step 3A. Access Fuse Panel Under Driver’s Side Dash
You will want to access the fuse panel under the dash on the driver’s side, shown in the image above.
You will need a micro fuse circuit tap. If you purchase the wiring kit in the link above, it has you covered. Also, with the fuse tap, the fuse cover and index will not be able to go back on; so it will have to be kept somewhere you can access it later on.
Step 3B. Route Newly Circuited Fuse Tap To Center Dash
Now that it has been added to the circuit, it must now be routed to the center of the dash.
It is a straight shot; you can use zip ties to secure the wiring to the existing wires under the dash and feed it through the opening in the middle of the dash.
You can also add a zip tie to secure all of the excess cables.
Step 3C. Connect Ground To Bare Metal Surface On Unit
Once it is routed; you will have to connect your ground to any bare, unpainted metal surface that attaches to the body or a grounding point.
Then you simply connect the micro-USB plug to the induction coils, then pop the tray back into the dash.
At this point, the wireless charger can be tested to verify that everything works. Simply turn your key to the ignition “on” position, and check to see if it starts charging your device.
Step 4. Reinstall AC Controls + Trim
Once you’ve verified that it works properly, everything can now be put back together.
Step 4A. Reinstall Filler Plate Onto Center Console
Begin by putting the filler plate on the bottom back in place. Then reconnect the connectors on the bottom of the shifter and cupholder piece. Then it can be snapped back into place as well.
Shift knobs can then be screwed back on. Once they start getting snug, simply position them back into the correct orientation.
Step 4B. Reinstall Head Unit + Power Outlet Tray
Next, the two screws that were removed can be reinstalled.
Note: Be careful not to over-torque them (they’re going into plastic, which runs the risk of cracking if over-torqued).
Step 4C. Reinstall AC Controls
Next the AC controls can be installed.
Simply reconnect the single connector on the back, and then align the four clips in the back and press it into place.
Step 4D. Reinstall + Replace All Cover Panels + Screws
The last step to putting everything back together would be popping the side cover panels back on. Simply make sure the back corners are sliding in between the dash in the back.
Finally, to help keep your devices from sliding around, you can also get a small piece of rubber matting, and trim it to fit. Then simply use some adhesive to adhere it to the piece to keep your device in place.
In summary, this is a great addition to any 4Runner.
Not only can it be done using basic tools, but it’s also great to have when you are in a pinch without a charging cord. It’s such a cool hidden feature to show off and hear people ask how you did it.
After a short few minutes the wireless charging stops. Is this because of a possible time out occurs after ignition and now power is no longer needed to that fuse and turns off?
doing this mod right now. one thing i wanted to mention is that the link to the dash cam hardware kit has the wrong connector so i had to cut it out and solder a micro usb i had at home
It looks awesome. Does that works with apple car play?
I can’t wait to do this. GREAT JOB!!
Do you lose the use of the AUX port with this install?
No you don’t
Awesome! This is going to be a GREAT install. Thanks again!
Is that just a flush USB 12V charger or did you remove the 12V outlet and replace it with a USB charger? WANT.
Nevermind. I found it on Amazon.
I replaced the 12v outlet and replaced it with that one so I could have more USB ports and see my battery voltage.
Would definitely like to see a write up on this one too!
I can make one if y’all want
Paul! Did you land the positive ring terminal somewhere or route this to your fuse panel?
I’d love to see one! I have something similar from amazon but can’t figure out how to get the factory outlet out.
Could you provide a link to this?! or possibly a write up? Very interested
This looks super cool and for a really good price and not much install time either! Just FYI to those considering, I have an 8 Plus and it has trouble fitting all the way in with no case on. The curved portions in the back prevent it from being inserted all the way inside, though it will still rest on the shelf and does so a majority of the way in. I’m going to install this ASAP and see if it will still charge. I have some ear buds that charge wirelessly and plan to upgrade to an 11 soon so I expect the 11 will fit fine since the 8 is so close. The 11 pro max and other large phones might have similar fitment issues.
Thanks for the write-up!
were you successful with getting the 8 Plus to charge even though its sticking out? I have the Xs Max and its also sticking out. Would love to know before I spend the time on this install
I finshed my install of this this weekend. It’s not perfect, but it works. First, the things that didn’t work for my install: The iPhone 8 plus doesn’t charge. It is as I suspected, the phone is too large and prevents it from sitting flush enough. However, as I mentioned, I’m planning to upgrade to an 11 and I tested my wife’s 11 and her’s worked! Also, my wireless earbuds charge as well.
One of the lessons I learned from my install was that the micro USB jack head that comes with the package is really thick. This caused me to need to double stack my double sided tape (which is about 1/16 inch thick) to make sure I wasn’t bending the board. I’m going to be looking for a USB cable/dongle with a thinner head. That way I can remove one layer of the tape to hopefully get the coils closer to the tray. This might make it to where the 8 Plus would charge. Regardless, the closer you can get the coils, the better.
Also, it wasn’t completely clear to me what was done in the fuse box for this install. I’m going to ask the author about this in a separate comment, but I don’t know if a fuse that was indicated was removed for the fuse tap or if an open slot was used. The indicated slot in the picture was in use. I used the adjacent unused slot (didn’t test before) and it turned out to be an ignition based fuse. Also, the dash cam kit included a 5 amp(?) fuse for the tap. I kept it in the tap, but nothing was mentioned in article about what was done with this and if it was necessary. It works, but I am a fuse-novice and don’t know if I did this correctly or not.
Thanks for taking the time and following up, deeply appreciated.
Yes, you do need a fuse. If you have one that is included in the dash cam that’s fine, if you end up with two fuses (one from the dash cam, the other from the tap a fuse), that’s fine as well.
Next, the exact slot in the fuse box is only determining whether you choose an always on slot or a fuse slot that is on only when the car is turned on. There are other spots in the box that run only when the engine is on, either use a voltmeter to see whats always on or test it using the tap a fuse by inserting it into various slots and see which one is always on and which one is not. Good luck
Paul, hey man good write up.
1. What phone are you using right now and how long does it take to charge?
2. You mentioned a pad to prevent the phone from sliding around. Which pad did you use and do you think it reduces charging time?
Hey, currently I’m using an iPhone X and an iPhone XR. Also any little rubber liner I simply used tool box liner to keep things from sliding around, also I don’t think it would reduce charging times by much.