Updated Cuts on Skid Plate – There is no material left on the sides, it’s a straight cut.
5th Gen 4Runner TRD Skid Plate Install With KDSS Suspension (Cutting TRD Skid Plate to Fit KDSS)
The TRD skid is not the only option for KDSS. There are many other fabrication companies and manufacturers that make perfect fit options for KDSS. I personally wanted to see how difficult it was to mount the TRD skid on our 4Runner with KDSS.
Check Out the TRD Skid Plate
- TRD Skid Plate: Check Today’s Price
Tools Used for Cutting Skid Plate
- Jig Saw with blades: The Jig Saw we used
TRD Skid Plate without KDSS?
If you are an SR5 owner, then you are clear to grab this skid plate and bolt it on in about 30 minutes, TOPS, no cutting required.
Removing the factory skid plate takes a couple 10mm bolts and 12mm bolts and then off it comes in two separate pieces. Bolting it back on is pretty quick as well. It just takes a jack to lift into place or two people to throw it on and then bolt down with 14mm nuts. You can do it by yourself, though. It might just be a littel more difficult to line up the bolts.
TRD Skid Plate with KDSS?
In this post, we wanted to point out exactly what you need to do to chop and mount the TRD Skid Plate successfully. There are many different ways you can cut into the skid plate as we pointed out in a previous post.
Some people cut the TRD Skid Plate in a strict U shape on the driver side and cut in a very wide U shape on the passenger side. The choice in how you cut your TRD skid plate is entirely up to you. I personally did not like the U shape on either side and wanted to have cleaner lines on both sides of the skid plate going down.
TRD Skid Plate Protection (With KDSS and Without KDSS?)
If you are on some serious rocky terrain, here is something to consider. If you are getting close to a large rock in the middle of the road, that is coming close to your KDSS suspension, the U shaped cut on the TRD skid plate is not going to protect anything.
Regardless, that large rock or obstacle is going to hit your KDSS suspension either way. The TRD skid plate does nothing to protect the KDSS suspension bars on either passenger or driver side. Let’s just hope you don’t get into that situation.
Let’s move onto the actual process of installing the TRD Skid Plate on your 4Runner with KDSS and cutting the TRD Skid Plate to fit KDSS.
Step 1: Remove Factory 4Runner Skid Plate
Just below the radiator, you have a filler piece of a plastic that acts a small debris skid. You can remove this and set it to the side. Remove the 10mm bolts and 12mm bolts that are holding your factory skid plates on.
After that, you will have a somewhat free (lose) factory skid plate. There are two metal tabs that latch up into the frame that you need to pull out.
To pull the factory skid plate off, just bend the factory skid plate down towards the ground and pull towards the rear of the vehicle. The factory skid plate will come right off. There is a second plastic piece attached to the skid plate for extra protection. This piece will come off at the same time.
Throw away factory skid plate.
Step 2: Unbolt and Remove Support Brace
This support brace that goes around the KDSS might look like it is welded on. It is not. You will need to remove the support brace that the old factory skid plate was mounted to. If you do not remove the support brace, you will not be able to suck the TRD Skid Plate back up and into location, to bolt on. There is a bolt on each support brace that is holding them on. Save this OE hardware, you will be using this to mount back on the new TRD Skid Plate (KDSS ONLY).
By removing these support braces, you have officially lost weight and your 4Runner might go 1mph faster on the freeway. Kidding but seriously, you don’t need them and they are extra weight.
Step 3: How to cut TRD Skid Plate for KDSS
Like we said before, there are a few ways to cut your skid plate and it is all personal preference. We started with one line and then just ended up chopping the rest of it off. So, our end result in cutting the TRD Skid Plate for the KDSS looks something like the above image. This is obviously not exact and you will be the judge of how you want to cut your skid plate.
It looks much cleaner this way as a final skid plate when mounted. In my opinion, I would rather have this look than the U shaped cutouts some owners have. Again, to each their own on this part of cutting the Plate.
Step 4: Mounting TRD Skid Plate
After you have made your cuts on the TRD Skid Plate for your KDSS and everything is looking good, you are ready to mount. If you have a jack, you may want to set the skid plate on a jack and jack it up into place. If you do not have a jack, use another person (one on each side) and align the TRD Skid Plate into place. Using provided spacers and hardware in the kit, bolt the top portion of the skid plate on. Using the OE hardware from unbolting support brace, bolt the rear portion of the skid plate down.
Step 5: Checking Clearance From Skid Plate to Frame
Checking the clearance on your skid plate is pretty important if you are running this skid plate. The TRD Skid Plate was not designed for KDSS. If you do not shave the top portion of the skid plate this is closest to your frame, you may touch. If you do not shave the top portion on your skid plate and it does touch the frame of your 4Runner, you may have an uneven skid plate.
I bought the TRD and cut it down for the KDSS and it still hits. I have fabricated some brackets, from angle iron, to move the plate forward about 2 inches. Now the KDSS piston doesn’t hit. With all the time and effort i put into this I should have bought a purpose built plate. 🙁
https://cartrimhome.com/Bumper-Skid-Plate-Protector-Guard-For-TOYOTA-4RUNNER-2014-2021
Car Trim Home now sales a black version as well. Just ordered black (skid plate) on black (lettering) for my blacked out 2018 ORP w KDSS. Have made several purchases from CTH so I’m comfortable with their quality components and am looking forward to putting this on.
*Back in stock
I have a 2019 4Runner TRD Off Road and made the mistake of buying the basic skid plate. I assume the plate you’re cutting is the basic skid plate? If so, I thought about cutting to fit but it looked as though the back bolt holes don’t line up with to the stock position. I didn’t think about removing the braces up front though. I have read about chasing the threads but mine are very clean, so that isn’t the problem.
man, i am so bummed, i want skid plate but 1) took my 4runner to the Toyota dealership, they got the skidplate then said it won’t fit because of KDSS. Took my 4runner to a custom shop. They said the same thing, skidplate won’t work, KDSS. Yes I am an idiot but the skidplate looks hot on a 4runner. Apparenlty a a skid plate is possible for a 4runner with KDSS. If you know how to chop it up and make it fit.
How is it holding up with the trd skid plate with the KDSS now?
Mine has been on (with KDSS) exactly as described above for over 5,000 on and off road miles. Not a single issue. No running, bumping or clearance issues at all.
You said you removed the plastic debris skid at the beginning. Did you put it back on?
Hey Ron, I just did this today. No, the forward most part of the skid plate takes up the space that the plastic trim was in. Hope this helps
What are the correct bolts sizes to attached skid plate 2015 4 runner pro
Will removing the cross braces have any negative impact on the structure of the truck
No. They are only there to help hold the OEM skid plate
This week I put the TRD skid plate on my 2020 SR5 P NO KDSS, it was easy. I only have basic skills and it took 30 min. The only issue I had was that bolt four went in a bit wonky. The instructions say to tighten front two bolts first, I did it a second time as recommended below, two threads on the front bolts, line it up and it all went on straight. Thanks!
Are you able to use trd skid plate if car hs 6in lift?
Why would you? With a 6” lift you’re obviously invested in off roaring. Get yourself a good steel plate. Aluminum is for looks.
Thanks Brenan for the detailed instructions! I just ordered a TRD skid plate for my 2020 ORP and plan on having it powder coated black and install the tufskinz white lettering to match my super white 4R. I’m going to cut the skid plate down and leave no lip just to be safe. I read that people were having issues with bolt contact on the inside of the skid plate. Is this something that you all have run into? If so, any luck with a very small spacer (washer) to provide an extra 1/8-1/4″ clearance on the underside?
Might be a little late but I’ve encountered this and I’ve allowed the bolt to make a few dings to the inside of the skid plate and did a counter bore roughly in the center of the ding cluster halfway thru the skid plate. I would not recommend putting a washer between the skid plate and mounting points. Because the crossmember brace (the black steel piece) needs to make contact with the cross member for support and its also the center front jack point.
Hi Brenan,
I just bought the TRD skid for my 2016 Trail. I’ve been reading about employing a tap at the rear end of the plate. Is this recommended for all installations? I haven’t seen any specific instructions for it, except this thread here.
Also, I don’t have a jack so I was hoping to use the street curb as my only method of gaining enough clearance to lift the front end securely for the install which I’m planning for this weekend.
A reply would be appreciated. Advance thanks,
A tap?
Yes a Tap to line up the rear bolts on the skid plate. Your comment — “don’t forget to run a tap through those rear holes. Makes the install much easier. You can also reuse the OEM rear bolts just fine.”
Also I don’t have a jack so I was hoping to use the street curb as my only method of gaining enough clearance to lift the front end securely for the install which I’m planning for this weekend.
There are thread cleaning taps and dies that you can use, I have a set of Snap-on both Metric and OEM that I use for everything including my wheel studs. They’re different then threading tap and dye sets that only clean/straighten the threads and do not actually cut the metal.
Hey Alex, thanks for your feedback. I’ve been looking and can’t specifically locate “cleaning taps”. I think you mean “thread chaser”? Your timing is funny because it seems a few wheel studs could use some love after rotating my wheels today. If you could point me to the product that would be appreciated. Thanks!
Thanks for all the great 4Runner info. I followed all your instructions (I have a TRD ORP with KDSS); cut my new TRD Skid plate (a little more than you show in your photos); but has anyone else had this issue? I started the two front bolts; but I’ll be damned if I can get the rear two bolts to line up with the threads; I can get the drivers side threaded; but on the passenger side the bolt is at an angle and there’s no way to get it to thread; it’s that far off. I think I”ll pull it back off and cut a narrow channel in the skid to allow a sight bit of adjustment for that bolt.
Very common issue. The top of those bolts get really dirty so many people report the same problems as the bolts get gummed up. There are vids about tapping new holes which is totally unnecessary. Just get a bore cleaner (gun cleaning brush) put some oil on in and clean out the bolt holes and threads. Don’t force them – just clean holes, oil bolts and they’ll go right in.
That shouldn’t happen. Did you leave all of the other bolts very loose? I installed my front bolts first, and they only caught a few threads, then I lined up the rear and tightened everything down. Two of the holes on the skid are slotted to allow some wiggle room during the install. Don’t forget to run a tap through those rear holes. Makes the install much easier. You can also reuse the OEM rear bolts just fine. They are chamfered a bit to help get them started.
TRD Pros don’t have kdss. I had same problem. Between the cutting and then the rubbing… and looking like every other 5th gen here in Colorado… I went with new version CBI skid. (aluminum) Almost went with RCi but liked the look of cbi over RCI with kdss. Super stout/ easy install, so sick! Honestly, Wish I wouldn’t have wasted the $ on the TRD. Good ole hindsight!
HI, thanks for the article and info. I installed the TRD skid plate on my 2018 TRD Pro using your cut down guidelines. Initially I left a small lip on the edges. The sway bar has been contacting this lip and I have been progressively trimming it down. It is down to less than 1/4 inch in height and now I’m getting the front bolt head of the where the sway bar is attached (driver side) gouging into the flat surface of the skid plate. Looks to be only a few millimetres deep right now. All this to say hat there is a lot of travel in that system and by tucking the skid plate up in tight (old radiator brackets crated some extra space) at he bottom, there just isn’t enough room to accommodate the full KDSS travel in the sway bar. Instead of modifying the skid plate more I’m going to add a washer or two between the skid plate and the frame to create the extra space. Hopefully that is enough. Will update if completely solved. Thanks
Geoff
So I have the same problem. I used some fat fender washers and still have the KDSS gouging. Did 2 washers fix the problem for you?
Sorry, had a couple of beers that night…… 2018 TRD Off Road, not a Pro. Lol
Awesome. Thanks, Brenan. I’ve already added the skid plate to my amazon 4Runner wishlist. Thanks for the link.
Great article. Increbile site. I have been looking at skids for weeks and weeks, without finding a clear leader. I had not thought about putting the TRD skid on the 2014 TEP with KDSS I own, and I think the skid plate sets have been grabbing my attention. I am extremely intrigued by this, as the metal cutting seems tricky. Brenan is the play to take it to a shop and cut all the way down on the edges to account for the travel of the components? Would an updated dotted line pic of the original pic be possible? Your insight is trusted and very much appreciated! Keep up the great work.
Travis
OverUnder4x4
Travis, yeah I will update the post probably next week. Nothing with this cut has caused us problems yet but I would take it all the way down to the edge, yes. There are quite a few ways its been cut before. You can see a few different types of cuts on this page for reference.
Thanks Brenan.
Brenan – thank you so much for all of this information – great work! I ordered the TRD skid plate for my 2018 off road premium before I realized it was not compatible with KDSS. I plan to make the modifications you suggested – the TRD skid plate makes more sense than all the parts it replaces.
I’m still a little concerned about removing the radiator braces – however it does look like they really provide little if any support for the radiator. Before I start cutting the skid plate – do you have any more updates/information? Any insight to your personal experience would also be appreciated.
Mike
Mike, yeah I would cut the skid plate differently so the KDSS does not come close to rubbing AT ALL on the edge of the skid plate. The KDSS suspension bar on the driver side will droop, and if the skid plate has a lip on the edge, it may rub. Instead of leaving that lip, I would take it all the way down.
Thanks for the input. I ended up going with newest model from CBI. Looks amazing/ super stout & fits with kdss. Had to remove brackets & 2 factory skids, but super easy process to install. Used the bolts from braces.
Ok, the 60mm bolt fix is NOT real. The radiator support brackets curve downwards, and longer front screws do nothing to fix this. The skid won’t even move into position without removing them. The rear screws can’t even seat with that brackets installed, much less the front.
Maybe someone without KDSS was sent the wrong screws and used 60mm screws as replacements?
Again, confirming that using 10mm-1.25x60mm screws do not mitigate the need to remove the radiator supports.
Installed on 2016 SR5 with member brace with no issues. Tried it without and fitment was fine as well. Left braces on as instructions did not state to remove.
ALOHA,
I was wondering if anyone verified “using 60 mm screws for the front two bolts”
or not? I am referring to the comments on September 29 and October 31st.
Mahalo
Recently just did this to my TRD off road and chose to cut straight lines instead of the U option. To be in the safe side I left the support brackets in and got 60 mm screws for the front 2 bolts. At first glance it doesn’t look like there is any running occurring, diffidently something I’ll be keeping an eye on.
Hi Mark,
Just to be clear, do you mean that you installed the TRD skid plate to your 4runner Trail Edition?
Using 60 mm screws for the front 2 bolts was enough to give room for the support brackets to be left in place? I’m very surprised, I’ll check it out real soon.
Thanks
*4Runner trail Edition with KDSS
Hi Jean-Philippe,
Was curious about the 60mm question… have you installed skid over support brackets???
Thanks,
Jess
Great help here was able to cut it within mms of the sway bar and fit on the first shot! However I am wondering when offroading and the KDSS engages and retracts the sway bar it seems like it will get even closer to the skid plate. Seems like a good bit more needs to be cut that what has been shown. I am powder coating the whole skid plate so I was planning on removing and refinishing anyways but it is something to take into account. Has anyone else encountered any contact between the sway bar and TRD skid plate? Hope this helps the next guy to make sure they have a better gap than I did on the first shot!
A jigsaw is great however in my shop, I taped a guideline then used a cutting wheel to cut about 1/4-1/2 way through the metal to give my sawzall a followed guide to make a perfect cut. Sawzall went right through like butter!
Also for strength consider the TRD skid plate is much stronger than the KDSS plate that has been replaced. It will hold everything a lot better than you think even tho not as good as the structural braces that have been removed.
Happy modding to the future guys!
5th Gen 4Runner W/ KDSS
–> About the support braces that need to be removed.
I’m always been grateful for those who take a minute to write problem/solution online, so I’ll take some of my time to do so.
I just finished installing the OME skid plate. Cutting & installation went well, cheers to this post.
*Note: this post doesn’t mentioned the bolt tread that as to be cleaned/slightly adjust. Please make SURE you read this: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/239833-if-you-have-trd-skid-plate-read.html
About the support braces that need to be removed, it is mentioned up here in the comments that they are meant to hold the radiator framing. I agree but after taking a good look at their curved shape, I believe(I’m no expert) they mainly and most importantly 1.Hold up the framing(same one for the radiator) on which the recovery hooks are mounted / 2. protect the swing central bar of the KDSS
One would say that the new OME skid plate will offer the longitudinal and vertical strength that the removed braces was giving. Yes, but looking at the structural size of the braces, the plate will offer lower rate, that’s for sure.
So, final words to my beliving;
1. The radiator framing is wayyy strong enough to be hold without the braces
2. The recovery hooks will have less ‘safe working load’ , which I’ll keep in mind while using them
3. The KDSS central bar will be protected by the plate instead of the braces
4. Even so I would suggest going for other options(that I haven’t looked), I’m still satisfied with the plate + it looks bad with the TRD letters and the plate being painted with black pick-up bed liner paint
Totally correct on everything, though I have to say, after removing the braces, they don’t seem nearly as “heavy duty” as the trd skid plate. The braces feel like hollow tubing. The skid plate is one solid piece of metal. After cutting one side using the same “design” as Brenan (which for me, turned out to be the easiest way to cut, I went through 4 metal jigsaw blades because of the rounded corners) one piece just happened to fall off after finishing the cut and that small piece landed on my wife’s booted foot. She wasn’t too pleased, even that piece was very solid. 🙂
Awesome post!
Question in regards to this comment: “There are many other fabrication companies and manufacturers that make perfect fit options for 5th Gen 4Runners with KDSS.”
Do you have a particular one you recommend? Will this one you recommend provide any better protection to my 5th gen KDSS 4Runner over the modified TRD Plate?
Jason,
Yeah, good question. There are a few. All of these fit the KDSS:
ARB Skid Plate
Shrockworks Skid Plate
Budbuilt Skidplates
RCI Skid Plate
Savage Off-Road Skid Plate
There are a few more out there but this is a good start.
What did you guys use to cut the TRD skid plate?
Zak,
We cut the plate at my buddies shop. He uses a JIg Saw to cut all odd shaped pieces of metal like this. He uses this Jig Saw at his shop but there are other cheaper options out there. The link is a bundle with blades that will cut through the powder-coated aluminum on the Skid Plate.
Thanks man!
I have KDSS and was looking forward to doing this mod until I heard that the support braces also need to be removed. Now I’m not so sure. Toyota put them there for a good reason I would think, do you know why? Also I’m curious, does the Pro have them in it’s stock setup?
Shane,
We removed our KDSS brackets and everything is fine. Why exactly does Toyota put a lot of parts where they do? We will never know. I am not a Toyota Tech and don’t have incredible insight on this one. From what I remember those brackets link the front 4Runner frame to the radiator support. As we were looking at this, we noticed there were multiple supports all around the radiator support to protect the undercarriage (including the new skid plate) and protecting the radiator. Once we removed the support brackets, we saw no need to put them back, nor would they fit, as everything was clearly supported all the way around. Also, some parts on a 4Runner just go a little far. There are hundreds of rigs out there with much less than a support bracket, and they do just fine. I wouldn’t worry about it but to each their own!
Let us know what you decide to do!
I just installed this myself and yeah, you do need to remove those braces, however, the bolts you remove to take the braces off is also where you bolt the skid plate into place. So in essence, the skid plate becomes the new brace which is probably actually stronger than the original.