Low-Profile Drawer Storage Solution DIY Install Guide For Non-3rd Row Seating For 5th Gen 4Runner Models
I bought my 5th Gen 4Runner in 2015.
I was upgrading from a 2011 Subaru Forester and spent many hours on Toyota.com building my dream set-up. The rear sliding deck was always an afterthought. I opted to forgo it to save some money (unaware it could not be added afterward as a plug and play kit) and unfortunately, that decision has haunted me ever since.
There are guys in the forums who were able to convert the SR5 cargo area into a Trail Edition Premium or TRD Off-Road/Pro but that requires drilling through your floorboard in order to access the factory bolt threads on the 4Runner. Not that this is necessarily a difficult mod, the general process is not for me. If you are interested in converting the SR5 cargo area into a TEP or TRD cargo area with the slide tray, take a look at this post in the forum.
The Problem With 5th Gen 4Runner’s Rear Cargo Area
When the back seats are down, there is a 5” downward slope from the flat seatbacks to the cargo area. This can be incredibly frustrating when you’re packing the truck or if you need a flat surface for sleeping.
I was determined to come up with a solution and started to research pre-made drawer systems along with drawer plans and options currently available on the market. I found that they were all much taller than I wanted and way more than I was willing to invest.
My 4Runner is my daily driver/mobile office and did not want to sacrifice too much of the current height of the cargo area. I also had promised my fiancé that I wouldn’t start any pricey mods until the 4Runner was officially paid off.
In a perfect world of low profile drawer systems, take a look at the systems made by Truck Vault. They are known to make one of the highest quality low-profile drawer systems for the 5th Generation 4Runner on the market. They can be customized and fully optioned with power, slide tables, multiple drawer configurations, gun organizers, high-end security locks, and so much more. Take a look at Truck Vault for a wide variety of drawer systems and custom rear cargo applications for the 5th Gen 4Runner. If you can afford it then I would highly recommend looking at the truck Vault drawer system.
For my personal build, I decided to DIY my own platform/drawer set up. Below you’ll find my supply list and step-by-step instructions to create your own
Let’s get started!
Low-Profile Drawer Storage Solution Install Overview
The photo above shows the starting dimensions for the area:
38 ½” deep (to hinge of rear seats) x 43 5/8” wide (wheel-well to wheel-well) x 3” high (bottom to level with rear seats)
Tools & Materials:
- 1 1/2” Sheet of Plywood
- 2 1×4”x8’ Whiteboard Lumber (Supports)
- 2 1×3”x8’ Whiteboard Lumber (Drawer Frame)
- Wood Sealant
- Bed Liner
- 1 ¼” Wood Screws (~30)
- 2” Hole Saw Bit
- Drawer System Carpet
- Carpet Spray Glue
- Solid Grip Easy Liner 20” X 12Ft Shelf Liner
- Richelieu 2-Pack 20” Drawer Slider X2
- Dewalt Cordless Drill
- Ryobi 10” Miter Saw
- Blue Hawk ¼” Braided Polypropylene Rope
- Optional Handle Upgrade: Kayak Grab Handles
- Optional Handle Upgrade: Folding T Handle Latches
- Optional: Drawer Organizers
- Optional: Turnbuckles for tightening drawers down to factory tie-downs.
Step 1. Platform Assembly
I started with a 1/2” sheet of plywood. I’m still in the process of setting up a proper woodshop at the house and had to rely on the local Lowe’s for the longer cuts that my miter saw couldn’t handle.
Once I had the entire platform cut to size (38 ½” L x 43 5/8” W), I measured for the factory mounting points directly behind the rear seats. I wanted to ensure that I wasn’t limiting any of the functionality of the cargo area.
Using 2” hole saw bit, I made two holes in the rear of the platform, 7 ½” in from the sides in order to retain the functionality of the factory tie-down points that are provided in the cargo area.
Cut Platform Legs
Next, using 2 pieces of 1”x 4”x 8’ lumber, I cut the platform legs.
I cut 3 legs measuring 33” long and mounted them to the bottom of the platform using the 1 ¼” wood screws. The outside legs sit 1 ½” inside of the outer edge. The center leg sits 21 ¾” to the center from the outsides edge.
Add Carpet & Mount D-Rings (Optional)
Now you have the main structure for the project.
The 1×4” supports are vital to give enough room to incorporate a drawer and allow for clearance of the gear being stored.
The last thing to do is to add the carpet to the top. I wanted something that resembled the factory carpet and at Lowe’s, I found that the marine/boat carpet was the best.
Lastly, to add even more functionality, I added surface mounted D-rings at all four corners.
Step 2. Drawer Build
Throughout the years I’ve put together my fair share of IKEA furniture. I used that experience to build the drawers. Using the 1×3” lumber, I cut the frame for the drawers and used the 1×4” lumber for the face of the drawers. Then attached the 20” drawer slider.
Choose Your Handles For Sliding Drawers
For the handles, I was originally thinking of using metal handles but decided to use the rope for a more nautical look and feel. I drilled two holes into the face using a 5/8” drill bit, cut the rope to length, burned the ends to prevent fraying, and knotted them at the end.
Add Some Lining To Your Drawers
Lastly, for the lining of the drawers, I wanted something that would keep items in the drawers from sliding around but allow for easy cleaning of sand or dirt. I landed on the Duck Solid Grip Easy Liner from Lowes.
Final Thoughts
I’m really stoked on how this project turned out. I was able to flatten out the rear of the truck, create storage, maintain a clean look, and maximize the usability of the cargo space. The items in the drawers might evolve over time but for now, this will be a perfect place to store my off-road recovery gear, while still allowing me to keep my essentials for work on top of the platform.
Eventually, my hope is to convert the rig from a daily driver/mobile office to a full adventure set up. Stay tuned!
When the seats are down can you sleep on this? Or is this a large gap for a foam mattress to be on?
How do I get a copy of the building drawings for the two drawer storage unit for the back storage area for a 2022, 4Runner TRD Off-Road? I just need this unit to fit in the back storage area when the back seats are up. Looking for a low profile unit. depth of drawers inside about 4 to 4.5 inches. Can you help??
We’re you able to find exact 1x4s and 1×3 or did you have to cut down a larger size
Thanks. This is a great starting point for a project. Working on a sleeping platform, drawer unit after I get the carpet.
Looking at making a variation of this over the weekend to accommodate my dog kennels above. Im going to have to modify pretty heavily – but this post was amazing for me to try and figure that out:
Looks awesome and I’m glad it helped! I’d love to see how it turns out!
updated picture wont post/
You have done exactly what I’m looking to do, with a single dog box on top of one shelf. Can you send me pics of your finished product?
Finished mine tonight. Went with 1x5x8 and 1x4x8 instead of the 1x4x8 and 1x3x8 in the directions though.
//:0
Nice!! how’d it turn out?
It won’t let me post the pictures on here, but I’ve posted them to IG if you want to check it out.
Finished photo
Damn, this looks killer. Well done.
So good, killer man.
I plan on tackling this build tomorrow. Is it designed to fit flush with seatbacks in up position? If so, is there a gap when seats are lowered? I really like the simplicity and functionality of the design. I hunt a lot with dogs and this is perfect to have kennels on top and all dog electronics, leashes, collars, etc in drawers below. I’m considering something like a flex-seal spray coating to drawer fronts or any exposed wood to protect it. Anyone here have experience using that on wood?
Hey Scott, yeah it sits flush against the back seats when they are up and there is roughly a 1″ gap when they are down. I made sure that the platform covered the entire rear area (basically to the gap where the rear seats hinge) but measure from the end of the downslope to the plastic at the rear door for the legs. Since I used the 1×4 instead of the 1×3 for the supports, it does sit a bit taller than the rear seats. That was the best option for getting a set of drawers in.
I don’t have any experience with the flex-seal product but I’d love to hear how it does.
Good luck!
I JUST finished building this system! Flex seal spray paint works GREAT and looks matte finished – just gotta apply it very lightly so it doesn’t clump up. Still considering methods to hold drawers closed – but I used the full length, soft close slides and they seem to hold it well. If need be, I think I’ll just use small magnets mounted inside so it looks clean.
Oh, and I used same indoor/outdoor carpet that I covered top with inside drawers and it looks clean! Had a few issues with slide installation (user error!), but otherwise I LOVE IT! Thanks for the design and all the info!
That’s awesome!! It looks great! I’m so glad the article helped!
This is a great simple build. If you don’t mind, what’s the max height of items you can put in the drawers? For clearance I would think right at 3″ if you only have 3.5″ from the 1×4’s
Any issue clearing the plastic trim at the end of the floor? I know on my 4th gen it’s raised a little bit there.
Hey Brent, Thanks for the feedback! For clearance on the drawers, anything 3″ and under fits perfectly. It looks like there is a total height of 3 1/16″ from the bottom of the drawer to the platform bottom. For the plastic trim on the end, I don’t have any issues because mine seems to drop off toward the rear. There is a slight slope down with the carpet before the plastic trim starts. Hope this helps!
It does, thanks for the reply!
Perfect setup. I’m thinking about doing something like this as well. I just have to find the space to do it. I hope Home Depot would be willing to do all the cutting for me, lol.
Hahaha thanks!! I had the local home depot cut the platform and the bottoms of the drawers. The other pieces can be done with a table saw or a circular saw.
I noticed there is no mention of when and what you did with the wood sealant and bed liner. When and where did you use them? I’m a novice at wood work.
I’m not sure what you’re referring to. This platform sits on top of the existing carpet in the truck. I didn’t use any sealant on the wood.
Oh ok, it is listed in the article under the ‘tools and materials’ section and has a link to it on Amazon. I’m not sure if it is needed since the platform would stay in the vehicle for me.
Oh sorry about that. You can definitely seal the wood for extra protection and a basic polyurethane would do but if it’s staying in the vehicle at all times, you don’t necessarily need it.
Quick question on the draw bottoms. What wood did you use? Thanks.
Hey Alex, I used the thinnest plywood I could find at Lowe’s, 1/4″ cut to the outside measurement of the drawer frame. it’s lightweight and inexpensive.
SO this provides you with obvious storage, but a level sleeping platform as well? Looking to do this with mine. I want storage and a level sleeping platform so i can throw an air mattress in back for an upcoming camping trip.
Hey Rayne, with the the rear seats down, the top of the platforrm sits about an 1″ above the level of the rear seats but would be a lot better than the drop from before. if you want a true flat surface you can always use the 1″ X 3″ for the supports instead of the 1″ X 4″. If you do that you’d have to forgo the drawers but you will have 2″ under the platform to store anything you need.
How much space between drawers and the hatch when the hatch is closed?
It goes right to the edge of the carpet so Id say about 3″ between the front of the drawers and the hatch.
Very nice, I have been looking at doing this in my 4Runner Trail ever since I got it. This is a great jumping off point for a basic setup. Very cost effective way to boost organized storage without loosing everyday flexible cargo space.
Thanks! That’s exactly what I was going for
Hope you’re strapping that thing down somehow. You don’t want it in the back of your head in the event of a collision or rollover. Otherwise, nice economical build!
Thanks!! I’ve strapped it down in the back to the factory mounting points but I’m going to add some mounting points to the sides to make sure it’s secure.
Can you let us know how you strapped it down? Would be great to update the article. Thanks!!
Hey Stan, I’m currently using a bungee in the back to strap it down using the factory mounts through the holes in the rear. I’m planning to install turnbuckles on the front and back to secure it down. Thanks!
Nice build! I have long contemplated going for the low profile storage / sleeper conversion, but decided that I wanted to keep it simple and level for now. For your drawer bottoms did you just brad nail them from the bottom or do you have a table saw that you can cut dados?
Thanks Charles! yeah for the bottom I just used some nails from the bottom. 5 or 6 on the sides and 4 or so in the front and back.
Nice work!
You certainly want locking slide latches on the drawers. Otherwise the drawers will bang against the hatch. Know this from unfortunate experience
Thanks for the feedback Jeff! Yeah I was definitely thinking of ways to keep them from opening and closing while driving.
Great point!