Complete List of Suspension Torque Specs For the 5th Gen 4Runner
Do you use “good and tight” as a torque spec? It’s a common practice, but should be avoided. Here’s why!
We use torque specs to tighten bolts to ensure the proper clamping between parts. Too loose and you run the risk of the bolt backing out and major malfunctions can occur while driving. Cranking down on a bolt can cause over-tightening which could lead to breakage or bending of the bolt head. Incorrect clamping pressure is avoided by using the correct torque specs.
Torque Wrenches:
- GEARWRENCH 1/4″ Drive 120XP Torque Wrench 30-200 in/lbs
- GEARWRENCH 3/8″ Drive 120XP Torque Wrench 10-100 ft/lbs
- GEARWRENCH 1/2″ Drive Torque Wrench 30-250 ft/lbs
If you don’t have a torque wrench, invest in one!
If you can’t decide on which torque wrench to buy, the 1/2″ drive is going to cover most, if not all of our bolts/nuts. I would start with a 1/2″ drive if you have to choose one and then the 3/8″ drive as a secondary. The 1/4″ drive is nice for tight spaces but is not really needed for the work we do on our suspension. The 1/2″ and 3/8″ should cover everything.
Why Torque Specs are Important?
I had just finished building my new 4Runner after a devasting accident with a deer that totaled my previous 4Runner on an Overlanding trip to Canada. And the last task was installing my new RCI lower link skids.
This requires taking out the rear lower link bolt, fitting the skid, threading the bolt back through the skid/link and then tightening the nut on the bolt.
That weekend, I took my newly built truck on her maiden voyage to Ouray, CO. Blackbear Pass, Engineer and Ophir topped my list of epic passes I was able to explore. On my way home to Denver, my truck kept doing a weird side pull, almost like a massive gust of wind was pushing the truck to the side which isn’t uncommon while driving on I-70 and through the mountains. I stopped and briefly checked it out but didn’t find anything weird.
The next day, my upgraded rear springs arrived (Dobinsons 749’s) so my fiancé started jacking up my truck to begin the swapping process.
He bent down to see if the rear tires were off the ground yet and his jaw dropped… “Oh, my, gosh” he muttered. I dropped down to see what he was looking at, and both lower link bolts had backed out and were being held on by threads. That, my friends, would have been a 2nd totaled 4Runner had they backed all the way out while driving 70mph through tight mountain passes.
These bolts were never torqued, and this is proof that “good and tight” shouldn’t be used or trusted.
Use this torque spec sheet as reference points when you are working on your truck. Do yourself a favor and print it out now for when you start working on your truck later. You won’t regret it.
5th Gen 4Runner Torque Specifications
Item | Torque Spec (ft lbs) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Wheels (Lugs) | 85 | 21mm |
| Front Sway Bar Bolt | 30 | 20mm |
| Sway Bar End Link | 52 | 19 mm |
| Rear Lower Control Arm (Link) | 96 | 19mm |
| Panhard Bar | 96 | 19mm |
| Rear Upper Control Arm (Link) | 59 | 17mm |
| Lower Shock Bolt Front | 70 | 19mm |
| Lower Shock Bolt Rear | 70 | 17mm |
| Inner Tie Rod | 57 | Specialty Tool |
| Outter Tie Rod Castle Nut | 67 | 27 mm |
| Upper Ball Joint Castle Nut SPC | 45 | 22mm; SPC instructions |
| Upper Ball Joint Castle Nut OEM | 82 | |
| Top Ball Joint Nut | 150 | 30 mm; SPC instructions |
| Upper Control Arm Bolt | 85 | 19mm |
| Oil Drain Plug | 30 | 14mm |
| Rear Diff Drain Bolt | 36 | 24mm |
| Rear Diff Fill Bolt | 36 | 24mm |
| Front Diff Drain Bolt | 48 | 10mm hex |
| Front Diff Fill Bolt | 29 | 10mm hex |
| Transfer Case Drain Bolt | 27 | 24mm |
| Transfer case Fill Bolt | 27 | 24mm |
| Axle Nut | 174 | 35mm |
| Lower Ball Joint Nut | 103 | |
| Lower Ball Joint Bolts | 118 | 19mm |
| Lower Control Arm Cam Bolt | 129 | |
| Steering Wheel Set Nut | 35 | 19mm |
Torque Specs: Front Suspension
- Front shock absorber with coil spring x Chassis frame: 47
- Front shock absorber with coil spring x Tube: 18
- Front shock absorber control tube bracket x Chassis frame: 21
- Front shock absorber x Front support to front shock absorber nut: 18
- Lower suspension arm Shock absorber: 70
- Skid control sensor wire clamp x upper arm: 9
- Upper arm x Steering knuckle: 82
- Skid control sensor wire clamp x Steering knuckle: 9
- Upper arm x Chassis frame: 85
- Wire harness Bracket: 71
- Lower suspension arm x Chassis frame: 129
- Lower suspension arm x Front lower ball joint attachment: 103
- Steering knuckle x Front lower ball joint attachment: 118
- Lower suspension arm x Front shock absorber: 70
- Front stabilizer cylinder x Chassis frame: 96
- Front stabilizer cylinder x NO. I front stabilizer control tube: 33
- Frame apron seal bracket x Chassis frame: 21
- Front stabilizer cylinder tube bracket x Chassis frame: 21
- Stabilizer bar link x Chassis frame: 103
- Stabilizer bar link x Front stabilizer lower bracket: 30
- Front stabilizer cylinder x Front stabilizer lower bracket: 30
- Lower suspension arm Front stabilizer end bracket: 55
- Front suspension member brace x Chassis frame: 22
- Stabilizer bar x Stabilizer bar link: 52
- Stabilizer bar x Stabilizer bracket:64
- Steering knuckle x Stabilizer bar link: 52
- Front NO. I stabilizer bracket Chassis frame: 36
Torque Specs: Rear Suspension
- Hub nut: 83
- Shock absorber x Chassis frame: 18
- Shock absorber x Axle housing: 72
- Shock absorber tube x Tube: 18
- Shock absorber bracket x Chassis frame: 22
- Rear flexible hose x Flexible hose: 11
- Upper control arm x Chassis frame: 59
- Upper control arm x Axle housing: 59
- Lower control arm x Chassis frame:
- Lower control arm x Axle housing: 96
- Lower control arm x NO. 3 parking brake cable: 9
- Lateral control arm x Chassis frame: 96
- Lateral control arm x Axle housing: 96
- Stabilizer link x Chassis frame: 74
- Stabilizer control cylinder x Chassis frame: 74
- Stabilizer link x Stabilizer lower bracket: 33
- Stabilizer control cylinder x Stabilizer lower bracket: 33
- Stabilizer control cylinder x Stabilizer control tube: 51
- Stabilizer bar x Axle housing: 81
- Stabilizer bracket x Chassis frame: 33
- Stabilizer Link x Stabilizer bar: 52
- Stabilizer Link Chassis frame: 11
KDSS
- Stabilizer control with accumulator housing assembly x Bleeder plug: 73
- Stabilizer control with accumulator housing assembly x Frame: 21
- Stabilizer control with accumulator housing assembly x Front stabilizer control tube: 33
- Stabilizer control with accumulator housing assembly x Rear stabilizer control tube: 33
- Stabilizer control valve protector x Frame: 21
- Front stabilizer control tube x Frame: 21
- Front stabilizer control cylinder x Front stabilizer control tube: 33
- Front stabilizer tube protector x Frame: 21
- Front stabilizer control tube insulator x Front stabilizer control tube:
- Rear stabilizer control tube x Frame: 21
- Rear stabilizer control cylinder x Union bolt: 51
This is a work in progress. If you have an exact torque spec or would like us to update this list, please comment below.
Thanks!
This is exactly what I was looking for! I just installed new UCA’s and Coil overs and my search for torque specs found this. Thank you Heather 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Hello anyone know torque specs on BRAKE HOSE LINE BANJO BOLT TO BRAKE CALIPER
REAR oem TOYOTA 2018.
2018 4 runner oops
TKS! I’m working in the front and rear suspension and this table helps me a lot!
Thanks for this makes life in the driveway a little easier. lol
Panhard and all rear links need to be torqued from the bolt side.
Rear lower links that should have been.
Is there a list like this for the 4th gen ?
4th gens have an 95% identical chasis. I would think you could follow this.
So the 3 nuts on top of the front coil over to the frame is torqued to 47lb-ft?
What is torque for the 2 12mm bolts that hold the brake caliper on 2011 4runner!
look at this DIY video,
(578) 4Runner Front Brake Job – YouTube
91 ft/lb
Ah NO NOT 91lbft
This is a start but not the specific vehicle value.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/metric-bolts-maximum-torque-d_2054.html
This list is great, I was referring to it today while I was replacing the passenger axel oil seal. I caught a typo, the outer tie rod castle nut is 17mm, not 27.
Thank you for the concise easy to use guide.
Cheers Mike
Fucking baller!! This is among the most helpful webpages I’ve stumbled across in my time as a 4Runner owner. I would buy you a beer if I knew how.
Can we get pictures…. lol
I need specs for replacement on lowers engine oil pan
Torque tips suggestions (your responsibility to do your own research) I am just sharing from my experience.
-Paint pens are your friend. When you are done torquing you can make a mark with a paint pen across the nut and whatever stationary surface it is on so that you can see if it starts to back off. **Note you want to mark the nut not the bolt head. The only exceptions are cam bolts, or bolts that thread into something, for example the front LCA cam bolts on a 5thgen, or the lower bolt for the panhard bar.
-When torquing make sure you are turning the wrench **slow and **smooth to ensure you hit the proper torque spec. Fast jerky motions can give you improper readings.
-Check/hit the torque spec and get the click/beep a few times.
-When bolts and nuts are off the car make sure to check for stretching (the bolt deforming, google some pic to get an idea of what to look for) and the threads to sure they are in good shape. Damaged threads can cause false torque readings.
-For damaged threads you can trace the threads with a flat head screwdriver or a pick to clear the threads. When you think you have the threads cleared, grab a nut and by hand or with a wrench see if you can go over the damaged threads with the nut.
If you can’t go over the threads with the nut by hand or with the wrench I would suggest replacing the bolt. If the threads on the nut are damaged the nut should be replaced.
*Some damaged threads are only a concern for the areas of the bolt/threads that get used by the nut. For example the lower bolt/nut on the front shocks may have some smashed threads in the middle of the bolt, however you only use the threads on the end, so be smart about it.
-I know a lot of us buy tools on the cheaper end, however torque wrenches are not the place where you should cut corners. Spend the $$ and get a proper torque wrench.
-When torquing be sure to check the setting a few times to ensure that it has not moved. I am sure most of us don’t use a digital torque wrench (super nice). Most have the dial on the handle, which can sometimes move, and you can easily under or over torque something, which can both be bad. Under torquing can have obvious results, however over torquing can stretch, snap, and even strip the threads.
Hope this helps someone
And thank you OP for this post as I used it myself for specs.
God Bless
Thank you for compiling this list!
I’ve seen two different torque specs for wheel lugs in 2016-2020 4Runner Repair Manual:
Aluminum – 76 ft lbf
Steel – 83 ft lbf
photos for us newbies would really be top tier!
Can you add nm torque settings as well?
Some of these torque specs are hard to understand exactly what they are for…some seem wrong.
Copied straight from the owner’s manual chad. If you go to each section in the TOYOTA owner’s manual, you will find each torque spec. Which Torque spec are you questioning? We went through over 500 pages of the manual to create this post. We could have one mixed up. Exactly which one are you questioning? I can jump in the manual and double-check. Thanks!
How about brake system torque specs?
How accurate are these torque specs ?
On Toyota’s website for maintenance some of the intervals listed for while towing or driving on dirt roads to “torque nuts and bolts on chassis and body.” Which of these specs take care of this? Thanks.
Awesomeness! THANK YOU. Coming from the big diesel/RV world we had torque specs down. Now after that chapter is over and with all the up-fitting I want to do on my TRD ORP, this article was perfect timing.
I’ve been in the same scenario with one of my lower link bolts backing out. If that sight doesn’t make your stomach drop, I am not sure what will. I would also suggest that with each of these torqued bolts, especially with suspension components, that a “witness mark” be added to make sure that they aren’t moving once torqued. They make it simple to do a once around when you’re done for the day and in camp.
Very helpful for those of us who like to work on our own rigs. Thank you..
Thank you!
Awesome article Heather!