Lower control arm (LCA) skid plates are often the most overlooked, even though they sit adjacent to the front engine plate. This is likely because any impact great enough to cause damage to your lower control arms would be beyond what a skid plate could protect against.
LCA skid plates do however still provide protection against rocks and gravel that can chip away at the paint and contribute to rust. Some people even refer to them as the poor man’s upgraded LCA because, at first glance, they look similar to a true aftermarket one; but hey, no judgment here!
Note: The Cali Raised Lower Control Arm (LCA) skid plates are only offered in steel and come powder-coated.
Weight
- Steel: 15lbs
Find It Online:
- Lower Control Arm Skid Plate: Check Price
Table Of Contents
Product Overview
The Cali Raised LED LCA skid can be purchased separately. When you buy the entire full belly skid plate set, they are included.
LCA skids are an important piece of armor that add the final touch to the comprehensive coverage that this skid plate set provides. I do wish that they were offered in aluminum to match the rest of my kit, but that’s just me nitpicking. In reality, it’s a relatively small piece of armor. Even if offered in aluminum, it would yield marginal weight savings.
Since it is the lowest point on the front end of the 4Runner, it’s probably best that it’s made out of steel anyways.
Install Overview
Tools Needed
- 11mm & 14mm socket
Installation should take no more than 15-20 minutes for both sides. All you need are a couple of sockets and a ratchet. If your LCAs are excessively dirty, it may be a good idea to quickly clean them before installation.
Step 1. Prep Hardware
Cali Raised LED supplies hardware for both the Tacoma and 4Runner. You’ll want to use both the silver carriage bolts (14mm) and the longer brass-colored bolt (11mm).
Step 2. Install Skids
Install the two larger diameter bolts in the two holes closer to the center of the vehicle. Then, install a washer and nylon lock nut on the top side of each. The short bolt will install into the forward-facing hole and the longer one in the rear-facing one.
The third (smaller) bolt is installed towards the wheel with a washer and nylon locking nut.
Step 3. Tighten Nylon Locking Nuts
For the two carriage bolts, you shouldn’t need to hold the bottom side with a wrench. Just keep them pushed up into the square holes of the lower control arms. The third, smaller bolt will need to be held with an 11mm wrench while you tighten the nut on the topside.
Final Thoughts
Your LCAs are probably the lowest point in terms of ground clearance aside from your rear diff. I’m actually pretty surprised that I don’t see more people using them.
Unlike the rest of your underbody protection that can be elevated by either suspension, body lift, or tires, LCAs can only be elevated with tire size. Sure, their angle increases with a suspension lift, but the point that attaches to your wheels remains static.
I don’t do any extreme rock crawling, but I am concerned with rust and corrosion over time since the LCAs are steel. I’m not sure how mud getting caked into the crevices over time will play out, but that can be said about skid plates in general. I bet a pressure washer would clear them out fine.
For their affordable price and easy installation, they’re excellent peace of mind for a little scratch and dent protection. Plus, they don’t look half bad. We can’t all afford those glorious long-travel LCAs, right?
Do these fit with the OEM TRD skid plate?
These should have no compatibility issues with the TRD skid!