Prolong Your Engine Life With The J&L OSC (Oil Separator Co.) 3.0 Catch Can: Maintenance Modification For The 5th Gen 4Runner – Overview & Detailed Installation
Oil is supposed to be an essential lubricant in a properly running engine, right? What some people may not realize, is that oil in the wrong places can also have detrimental effects. The J&L Oil Separator (Catch Can) aims to mitigate some of that risk by capturing oil vapors deposited in said wrong places.
Brenan and Jensen previously covered the JLT Performance Catch Can, and although this post is similar, it’s got an entirely new brand and logo on the actual catch can itself. JLT Performance has officially changed its name to J&L OSC (Oil Separator Co.). The name change came after the oil separator side of the business grew into it’s own brand, but the newly branded catch can look the same as the last one aside from the logo on the can. With all that said, let’s jump into the install, review, and overview.
Find It Online:
- J&L Oil Separator (Model 3107D): Check Price
Oil Catch Can for 4Runner
Why Would You Need An Oil Separator?
In short, engines operate by creating combustion and using that energy to drive your vehicle. During this process, pressurized gasses are created and get passed into the crankcase. The pressure in the crankcase is then vented by the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve into the intake manifold and then back into the combustion chamber to complete the cycle.
The PCV valve’s role in this cycle is to prevent these gasses from mixing with the engine oil. Over time, the intake valves and other places collect trace amounts of oil and fuel in the gasses. This build-up eventually degrades engine performance and is precisely what the oil separator “catches”. Above, you can see the video that Brenan covered before the rebrand.
About The J&L Oil Separator
Inside, the oil separator contains a filter made of a fine mesh stainless steel screen that traps the tiny oil vapors. Once the droplets are heavy enough, they fall down into the catch can through two additional honeycomb filters to prevent the oil from being sucked back up.
If your engine is functioning correctly, you should expect to empty the catch can every 2000-3000 miles, and it still not be full.
Features:
- 3oz Capacity
- Solid Billet Aluminum Construction
- OEM Style Quick Connect PCV Fittings
- Multi-Stage Filter
Find It Online:
- J&L Oil Separator (Model 3107D): Check Price
What’s Included?
Included in the box is everything you need for installation, with the exception of a little automotive grease that will be required to attach the provided hoses to the oil separator.
In The Box:
- J&L Oil Separator
- Mounting bracket and M4 screws
- PCV valve hose (long)
- Intake manifold hose (short)
Installation
Tools & Materials:
- 10mm deep socket and ratchet or wrench
- Phillips screwdriver
- Grease
- Painter’s tape
Step 1. Remove Engine Cover
First, pull up on the large plastic engine cover to remove.
Step 2. Remove Hose Connecting The Intake & PCV Valve
There is a single hose with retaining clips on each end. Pinch the clips and pull each end of the hose off of their valves.
The PCV valve hose in the back of the engine can be a little tricky to reach but comes off in the same manner as the intake side.
Step 3. Reinstall Retention Clips
Next, reinstall the original retention clips on the new hoses provided, with one on each 90-degree bent end.
Step 4. Reinstall New Hoses
The longer of the two hoses will connect to the PCV valve in the rear of the engine bay, with the shorter hose going on the intake valve. Note that the ends of the hoses with the 90-degree bend and clips are the ones being used.
For easy notation in Step 7, I marked the PCV valve hose with blue painter’s tape.
Step 5. Install J&L Oil Separator Bracket
To install the bracket, use a 10mm deep socket or wrench to remove the ball-head screw. Line up the non-logo end of the bracket with this hole and reinstall the screw to secure it.
Step 6. Install J&L Oil Separator & Connect Hoses
There are two small screws provided in the box to secure the oil separator to the bracket.
You will need to use any type of automotive grease to lubricate the inside of the hoses before connecting them to the oil separator valves. The PCV valve hose will connect to the left side, or “O” side of the oil separator. The intake valve hose will connect to the other side.
Finally, Replace Engine Cover
Align the engine cover with the ball head mounting screws and press down to secure.
Final Thoughts
Overall, this was a straightforward mod, and I can always appreciate mods that are fundamental to your vehicle’s performance and maintenance.
The install itself took maybe 15 minutes; I probably spent that same amount of time just making sure I understood the directions. I’m looking forward to seeing how much oil is caught in the J&L Separator, especially when my rig is no longer in its infancy years.
An oil separator is not one of the flashier ones where you see instant results but instead an investment if you plan to keep driving your vehicles for many years down the road. 4runners are already notorious for their longevity. Hopefully, this mod will take that reputation even one step further!
Just picked this up. Thanks for the article. 👍
If anyone in CA is looking to get one, I saw it on Amazon for the same price.
Might want to check it out.
Sorry, disregard that. There is a small fine print on amazon that said they will cancel your order if it is placed to ship to CA. 🙁
With the oil that is collected in the can, is it ok to just pour it back into the engine oil fill location, or should you just get rid of it ?
Dispose of the fluid as you would used brake fluid, transmission fluid or engine oil.
I did this mod the other day. Build quality nice etc. Could you get the new hose seater 100% of the way up on the intake manifold? I could not so I got it up as much as I could and clamped it.
It was pretty tight. I used a dab of bearing grease. As long as the clamp is over the tube, it should be good.
I’ve been running this for a bit over a year with no issues (back when it was JLT before they were bought out by S&B and renamed). Just cleaned the filter for the first time using brake cleaner. Catches about 1.5-2 oz every 1000 miles or so. Yes, it’s more effective and beneficial on DI engines but I’ve got a bottle in the garage with over 10 ounces of oil/water/gas that would’ve gone back into the engine without it
Nice thanks for sharing. I am going to upload some pics here soon once I pull mine off.
I do think that this product improves engine life, because every 100 miles or so, I pour out a few tablespoons of motor oil.
I’ve tried to buy this, but you can’t buy them in California, so unfortunately for many of your readers (including me) this isn’t an option unless you find a way to get it shipped.
Question, since this motor is a V6 shouldn’t there be a breather on both valve covers. I see the one you’re using, but what about the other one on the passenger side that goes in to the intake before the throttle body?
From what I’ve read, these catch cans are great if you have a direct injection engine where the injectors put fuel directly into the combustion chamber. However, they’re not really necessary if the engine is port injected. For this type, the gasoline is sufficient enough of a solvent that deposits don’t form on the valves. The problem I’ve had is that I can’t tell if the 1GR-FE engine in our 5th gens is port or direct injected.
This install shouldn’t hurt a thing, but if there is port injection, then I wonder if this install is necessary. It’s a bit pricy if it isn’t necessary IMO.
Thanks for the article! I was just researching these last week. lol
Regardless or port vs direct injection, consider oil still gets deposited on the intake and makes its way into the cylinder. Checkout how much oil is on the intake runners of the 5th gen 4Runner in this post when considering whether that’s enough reason to not get a catch can.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2811554-post9.html
5th Gens are Port injection…