After weeks of anticipation, the installation of the Icon Stage 2 Suspension didn’t go as smoothly as we hoped. Everything was fine until we encountered a problem with the strut spacer. When we tried to line up the lower strut bolt, it wouldn’t go through. Initially, we thought we misread the instructions, but it turned out that Icon Vehicle Dynamics (IVD) had sent us the wrong part. The spacer was 1.2mm too narrow for the OE bolt to fit.
Since it was a Saturday, our options were limited. We needed to resolve the issue that day or risk being without the car for the week. Our solution was to bore out the spacer with a 9/16 drill bit, but after searching several stores, it took hours to find one. Once we got the drill bit, we modified the spacer to match the correct dimensions, and the installation went smoothly from there.
However, the day was largely wasted, and IVD didn’t respond to our inquiries until two days later, which was frustrating.
Amazon:
- Stage 2 Lift Kit (Full Suspension): Check Price
YotaMafia:
- Icon Stage 1: Check Price
Table Of Contents
Install Video
KDSS Accumulator Assembly
You do not need to remove your KDSS sway bars. Just loosen the shutter valve bolts 1.5-2.5 turns maximum. Do not go further than this. Once you have the shutter valves open, you should have more flexibility with the KDSS.
1. Jack Up Truck, Remove Tires
2. Remove Cotter Pin
Start by removing the cotter pin that connects the OE bolt on the bottom of the Heim Ball Joint Pivot Pin. You will not be reusing the cotter pin, so set aside and save if you wish to.
3. Unbolt UCA & Knock Spindle Loose
Once you have the cotter pin removed, unbolt the Ball Joint Pivot Pin from the spindle. Once the bolt has been removed, just knock the spindle loose. It’s really tight. You may have to knock a few times, and hard.
4. Unbolt ABS Bracket from UCA
While the spindle is still connected to the upper control arms, unbolt the small nut that is mounted to the ABS bracket. Just set to the side. You will not be using the OE hardware, so just set aside and save if you wish.
5. Remove Spindle
Completely remove the nut that is holding together your upper control arms and your spindle. Once your spindle is free, shove back into the wheel well and zip tie down your wheel assembly.
6. Remove Engine Splash Guards
Pop off the plastic push tabs that cover access to your upper control arm bolt. You may need to use a pair of needle nose pliers for this as they are pushed in there pretty tight. Once you have access to the upper control arms, find your hardware and get ready to remove your upper control arms.
7. Unbolt Bracket
This is an optional step, you may need to remove the bracket and line that is blocking access to the Upper Control Arm bolt. If you find that you do not need to, don’t worry about it.
8. Unbolt Upper Control Arm
On the lower end or towards the rear of your 4Runner, remove the nut on your upper control arm bolt and save the OE nut. You do not need to save the OE washer as Icon Vehicle Dynamics provides nice shiny brass ones for you. But, you may want to save them just in case.
9. Remove UCA Bolt
Once your hardware has been removed, you are ready to slide your upper control arm bolt out of the assembly and up into your engine bay. There is not enough room to pull the bolt out of the well, just leave it sitting up in the engine bay as you are going to need to slide it right back down through the new Upper Control Arms.
10. Remove Upper Control Arms
Remove your upper control arms and set them aside. It is now time to remove your shocks.
11. Remove Coilover Bolts
Remove the three nuts that secure your shocks to the shock housing. There are two nuts to remove in the front and one in the back. You can see we used a socket for the front two and an open end wrench for the nut in the back as there was not enough room to fit a socket in the back.
12. Lower Strut Bolt
The strut bolt is really tight so you will need to knock it out with a hammering pin and a rubber mallet. You may need to hit it more than once.
13. Unbolt KDSS
If you are one of the lucky 4Runner KDSS owners, this step is for you. Unbolt the KDSS bar bracket that is connected to your lower control arm. You will need to unbolt the bracket here and in more location, located almost directly under the vehicle. Just follow the KDSS bar up and you will see it. You need to unbolt these KDSS brackets holding on your KDSS Suspension in order to lower the lower control arms.
After you are done, you can push down on the lower control arm to remove the shock. Or, you can jack up the opposite side of the vehicle to force the lower control arm and wheel assembly down. This second option is much easier.
14. Install Coilovers
Throw in those new pretty Coilovers! Make sure you align the bottom of the strut so it is aligned with the lower control arm strut bolt location.
15. Coilovers Bolts
Using the provided hardware in your stage 2 kit, thread the bolts down through the open holes and into the Coilovers. Hand tighten them for now.
16. Mount Lower Control Arms
You will be reusing the OE bolt. Once you have the Coilovers in (with new spacers), slide the OE bolt through the strut and thread the nut back on.
KDSS INSTALL NOTES: You need to reconnect your KDSS. This was kind of a pain in the ass. Because the new Coilovers pushed the lower control arm down, the KDSS was not lining up. You may have to play around with jacking up your lower control arm on the opposite side of the 4Runner in order for the KDSS brackets to line up again.
17. Grease Upper Control Arms
Clean off your UCAs after you insert the bushings.
Step A: Pull out your grease gun for this one, things are going to get messy. Using rubber gloves, grease the inside palm of your hand with some grease and go to work on the bushings before you pop them into your new Upper Control Arms. You can never have too much grease all the way around, just make sure you do not get any grease into the center, where your OE bolt is going to slide through.
Step B: Now is also the time you need to drop in your Ball Joint Pivot Pin into your Upper Control Arms. To remove the nut on the top of the ball joint pin, we used an impact driver, and it popped right off. Try this the first time. We tried everything before and it was not coming off. The impact drive takes it off in a flash. Once you have the nut off the top of the ball joint pin, slide it into place and rethread the bolt back into place.
You are now ready to install your Upper Control Arms.
18. Install UCAs
Grab your Tubular Uniball Upper Control Arms and set them into place. The only tricky part about installing the Tubular Uniball Upper Control Arms is getting the washers to stay in place when sliding the OE upper control arm bolt down.
19. Slide OE Bolt Through Upper Control Arms
Start with the first two washers at the top. Once you have the first two washers in and the bolt halfway through your upper control arms, move to the third washer and then the fourth (washer on the end). Thread on your nut and bolt down to spec.
20. Connect Ball Joint
After you have the upper control arms bolted into place, we want to connect the upper control arms to the pivot arm with the new ball joint pin. The ball joint pin in the Upper Control Arms is TIGHT. Really tight.
Take a rubber mallet and knock the pin into place until it lines up with the OE pivot arms. Slide the ball joint pin into place and thread on new nut provided in your kit.
21. ABS Bracket
In your kit, they provide the hardware to reconnect your ABS line. Simple enough. Nut down and get this thing installed.
22. Apply Loctite
After your Upper Control Arms are in place, we have one more step before we lower the vehicle. Grab the Loctite that Icon provides in your kit and apply it to the Ball Joint Pivot Pin bolt. Using your socket, bolt it down.
After you are finished with the Upper Control Arms and the Extended Travel Coilovers on both sides, throw your tires back on and lower your 4Runner. Double check all nuts and bolts to ensure everything is on tight and not just hand tight. Once you have all nuts and bolts on, you want to double check any nuts and bolts that need to be torqued to the 5th Gen 4Runner specs.
Done with the Front Suspension, let’s move to the back.
24. Unbolt lower Shock Nut & Unbolt KDSS
25. Unclip the Trackbar
26. Unbolt 2nd KDSS Bolts
27. Remove Top Shock Nut
28. Loosen KDSS Bolt
29. Install Coil Springs
30. Rear Coil Spring Fitment
31. Connect KDSS
32. Installing Rear Shocks
33. Tighten KDSS & Check all Nuts/Bolts
I just purchased the Stage 2 from ICON, is there any gotcha’s I should worry about? I have a 2020 TRD Off Road. Such as extended brake lines, sway bar links, spanner wrench, ETC? I just wanted to make sure I got everything?
You do not need to remove your KDSS sway bars. Just loosen the Shutterfly valve bolts 1.5-2.5 turns maximum. Do not go further than this. Once you have the shutter valves open, you should have more flexibility with the KDSS.
About to do this with 6112s in the front, my question is when you loosen the shutter valve,I’m assuming you turn tighten them back up after everything is done?
Thanx for a awesome website, it has helped me out alot and the directions and pictures. KEEP IT COMING!!!
Hi Brenan,
Good morning, I don’t know if this thread is done. I really appreciate you sharing your projects. I recently got Icon Stage 5 installed by a shop, since I dont have the proper tools. The front sits at 2.75” and I have 275/70/17 BF KO2s installed. I thought there will be no rubbing issues with the size tires, Im having major rubbing issues when reversing to the right, is this an issue with the install? I really apprecite your help. Thank you!
I’ve read more than a few bad experiences with leaking shocks and horrible customer service from Icon. I wonder how much this same kit would cost to piece together using King and TC UCA’s instead.
I have the King/TC setup with Icon 2” springs. You’re looking at $3,500-$4,000. Well worth the cost, however I do have infamous the drivers side lean which I’m trying to figure out if its weight related.
Are the 2” icon springs the same size? I know there is that issue about the drivers lean. Does icon make these springs different sizes?
Hey Brenan just wondering what is the torque specs for the TrackBar, Rear KDSS the 2 bolts and the lower bolt for the shocks im doing the same setup for my t4r w/ KDSS
KDSS sway bar bracket – 33 ft/lbs.
See this article on the forum.It’s in the REAR section under step 9. We need to write an article on this.
I just had the Icon stage 2 installed on my ’18 ORP 4runner with SPC upper control arms. I noticed that the wheel gap in the front is about an inch lower than the rear. Any suggestions how to level this out? I am looking for the stance to be as level as possible. I had the ProComp level kit on it before but the ride sucked so bad. Thanks for the great site.
I had the Icon Stage 2 Installed on my 18 4Runner Off-Road Premium back in June. This suspension has a great ride and minimizes the Sway side To Side, Nose Dive when Breaking and Squat when Excellerating. Wash Board dirt roads and Pot Holes are actually better at speed than going slow. The Icon also has a vey nice highway ride as well.
I added the Upper and Lower Links with the Adjustable Trac Bar to the rear, the Sway Bar Relocation Brackets and the Differential Drop Spacers.
I have Toyo 285/70/17 ATIIs installed on Method 17×8.5″ Con 6 Wheels with 4.75 BS and NO rubbing at all.
I could not be happier with the Icon Suspension. Highly Recommended!
I am curious your thoughts on the SPC adjustable UCA versus the IVD for the stage 2 suspension system. I’m leaning towards the IVD UCA, but the local dealer is heavily pushing the SPC.
I bought a 2016 4runner Trail Kdss to use as my Hunting truck. I’m not an avid offroader but do read these blogs occasionally to find useful information, Suspension, gear reviews, trail reviews, & Diy installs etc. Everything on my SUV was setup to get deep the woods on mainly fire roads, jeep trails etc to get in deep enough to get away from the other hunters then hike in further. Bought the Icon 2.5 external resi shocks 5k total for the suspension and installed them when the truck had 9k miles, fast forward ONE hunting season 20k miles later. Front Shock leaking like hell, Had that rebuilt by Icon approved service centers. Since they don’t service their own products anymore. Paid 1200 dollars to DC shock services (ICON approved service center). To remove rebuild and re install the shocks and also bought stiffer front springs. Picked up the my Suv, Been a month now found a ripped ABS sensor wire electric taped back together a two weeks back. Yesterday went to install shock boots to protect the rear shafts from pitting/seal damage leading to leaking noticed the rear passenger shock wasn’t secure at the bottom. Bolt is tighter than sh1t but there is play. I can move it slightly back and forth.. lubed and backed the bolt out as carefully by hand and bolt is stripped to hell. Simple fix for the ABS sensor harness 40 dollars. Mechanic is working on the stripped bolt and going over every bolt to make sure. Moral of the story buy any other brand suspension. I’m probably going Kings they are local to me and service their own product. Maybe back to Radflo’s had that on my old Truck no issues season after season.
John, thank you for sharing your experience. Noted for sure. We have not had any problems so far after 12 months/10K miles. We will see what happens in the coming months. Thanks again.
Thanks for the response. What about the bumper bar on the grill under the Toyota emblem? Did you wrap that as well?
I love your guys site… I read it daily! I’ve got an ’18 4Runner OFP (non-KDSS) and I have a Pro Comp level kit on it. I am not totally happy with the way it drives so I am thinking of going to the Icon Stage 2 lift kit. Just a few questions. 1: On this 4runner what size tires are you running? I have BFG KO2 285/70-17 on Pro Comp Vertigo 17×9 but not sure if I’ll need spacers or bigger tires for that “bulldog stance” I have now. 2: On the grill of this 4runner, did you wrap the front valance and the grill bar black? Thanks for the info. FYI, I used your list of LED replacement bulbs to do my lights from Xenon Depot. Installing them on Friday
Thanks Nick! The tires are Toyo Open Country AT 2 – 285/75R17. Spacers will give you the stance you are looking for but plan on some trimming. We wrapped our valance. Here is an overview on that.
So I’m looking at doing the icon stage 2 lift on my 2018 with kdss. Do you know off the top of your head what spec is for tightening the hardware back up? Or where I could find that information?
Thank you for a very thorough write up!
Good call, The torque specs are in the installation instructions that come with the kit.
Awesome. One more dumb question…which grease did you use on the UCAs?
Thank you!
The zerk fittings on the UCAs take a grease gun. Here is an example of one. Any grease gun refill will do. Head to home depot, plenty of options.
I just installed the Icon stage 2 on my 2016 Trail premium with KDSS a week ago. My question is has anyone installed a front diff drop (lowering the front differential) and is it recommended?
I called up MetalTech a while ago to help me decide whether to get KDSS, which I ended up doing, and now I am starting to think about lift. But I remember them saying it is tricky doing a lift in that you have to make sure it is “clamped” it in place to do the suspension work or it can be damaged. Did I miss something in the above? it seemed like an unbolt KDSS and rebolt later was all that was done in what I read here. Please clarify. Thanks!
Coyote,
Clamped into place? So, yeah when we did this suspension, we were unaware of the KDSS tricks of the trade. You do not need to remove the KDSS sway bar like we did in the post above. Instead, you want to follow this method:
Step #1: Hoist vehicle, and allow wheels to hang freely.
Step #2: Locate the KDSS accumulator assembly positioned under the vehicle, just beside left chassis rail.
Step #3: Remove steel protective shield.
Step #4: Locate shutter valve bolts on side of accumulator. Unscrew shutter valve bolts 1.5 – 2.5 turns MAXIMUM. DO NOT REMOVE SHUTTER VALVE BOLTS OR UNSCREW ANY FURTHER THAN THAN ADVISED.
Step #5: The KDSS shutter valves are now open, allowing full movement of front and rear anti-roll bars. It is now safe to remove and install suspension components. DO NOT START OR OPERATE THE VEHICLE WITH SHUTTER VALVES OPEN.
Step #6: When suspension works are complete, lower vehicle onto level ground, then close BOTH shutter valve bolts fully by turning clockwise and tightening. Reinstall protective shield.
So you should have all wheels off the ground and not just the fronts and then the rears in that order?
So the proper procedure would be to locate the KDSS accumulator assembly and proceed with the instructions you gave instead of taking off KDSS bar or using a heavy duty ratchet strap to hold in place, correct? You have done this way and not got KDSS lean? Thanks!
The first part, yes. The second part, yes and no. In another post, we dialed out the KDSS accumulator and had some luck. We did not have to remove the KDSS anti-roll/anti-sway bar from the front driver side but we did on the front passenger side in order to fit our Icon coilovers in. I think it was because our preload was maxed out along with the double stacked shims on top of the coil. That didn’t help. We were close. Without the maxed out coils and shims, the coilovers would have fit nicely, without removing the KDSS anti-roll bars. In the back, we threw in the Icon overland springs, and those too are much taller than the 2″ springs. So, same situation there. Icon 2″ springs dropped right out. For the 3″ springs, we had to disconnect the KDSS. In most cases on a 3/2 lift, this will work. If you are going higher, it might or it might not. It really depends on your setup.
Don’t forget to do a proper wheel alignment after the install. I forgot that step and the car was all driving funky. After the alignment it drove perfect.
William,
Indeed. A good alignment is needed for sure. We had new tires and wheels put on shortly after our suspension was put in and they aligned it. It does make a huge difference.
I have noticed that my 4runner is setting lower in the front after the Icon Install. Maybe an inch or two? Im not sure where to measure as a reference point. Do you know of I can just adjust the spring preload to lift the front end a little bit? I have the right tool.
Thanks for this! My son and I did the front install a few days ago and I have to echo the frustration with the KDSS. We followed your written instructions, not the video (which I just watched) and coincidentally ended up using a similar method to line it up. Question… I’m about to do the rear. Wondering if I need to disconnect the sway bar if I loosen the dampening bolts for the KDSS first? In your KDSS update it reads like you don’t need to disconnect it. Fingers crossed that’s the case as I don’t feel like dealing with that same headache again.
I read the rest of the thread and think I answered my own question 🙂
Got the 33in(285-70-17) BF AT KO2’s on today and unfortunately I have rubbing in the front tires in the back of the wheel well when turning sharply. Looks like it will be an easy trim or hopefully just a loosening of some bolts and moving the fender around to gain some more room. I’ll find out tomorrow when I have time to play around with it. I’m rolling these tires on my 2012 4runner Trail Edition with the Stage Two Icon suspension lift.
James,
Thanks for the update. Icon say’s that their suspension can fit “up to” 33″ tires without rubbing. So, it is interesting to hear you are experiencing rubbing. For the 34″ tires on mine, I had to completely remove the rear well plastic pop-out. That piece didn’t look like it was doing much anyway. Let us know what you had to remove or trim.
Thanks!
I had to trim off about 1/2in of plastic along a six inch section of the inner wheel well. I now have a little more than 1/2 of clearance between the tire and some big ol metal brace that comes off the main body. I’m really hoping I don’t rub on metal when flexing!! I’d rather not be taking a grinder to my car. I’d post a pic but it’s not letting me?
Jay,
Yeah, I am familiar with that metal brace that comes out. Ours is clearing now after hefty trimming, so not sure why your 33s are that close. Did you bring your suspension to 3″ all the way around? I saw the picture you sent, it looks totally different than our 2014 4Runner wheel well. That big plastic piece you made cuts on looks much bulkier than ours. There is another guy that has a 2012 and has some serious mods. I can introduce you. And yeah, I am looking into a solution for questions and answers on the site. Something like a forum but not full forum software.
James,
Yeah, that was weird on ours as well. The passenger side of ours sat much lower than the driver side. All you do is adjust the coilover and level at the front and rear rocker panels. That is what a local 4×4 shop told me. I took my 4Runner in after we installed the suspension and they tuned it for me. They measured level at the front rocker panel on both sides. Are you talking about lower on both sides or lower on one side?
I’ve not done any measuring yet just eyeballing it. The front of the vehicle looks to be an inch or two lower than the rear of the vehicle. It looks even if comparing passenger and drivers side looking at it straight on. I’m getting new BF AT KO2’s put on Monday and then I’ll get it in my garage and do some measuring and adjusting of the front coils.
Thanks
Jay,
Yeah, you need to have the suspension tuned for sure. The coils do not come maxed. It will sit lower for sure out of the gates. You need to have the coilover key or take it to a shop that has one. They can get everything tuned up for you. So weird, my passenger side was about an inch lower than my driver, and ICON didn’t send a key. You would think if you spend $3000 on a suspension, you would get a free $20 part. lol.
Well I installed the Icon Stage 2 suspension system over the weekend. It took me 1.5 days with my 10yr son helping me with a few things. Other than the F%$king KDSS, it all went smooth. Got it aligned yesterday and had a little bit of time to take it out on some washboarded fire roads. I was expecting the new suspension to ride stiffer but I found it to be smoother and much more controlled everywhere. I was still getting rattled pretty good on the real heavy washboard crap like braking into corners but I wasn’t getting kicked around like before. But all the small and medium sized stuff just kinda melted away and this will make the miles of fire road I drive sooo much more tolerable. I assume it will only be better aired down.
I wanted to ask you another question. From your experience have folks been ok running 33s with no rubbing? I’m looking at the BF AT KO2’s. I’d rather not get into body mods and trimming.
Thanks for putting the energy into your website! I would have NEVER attempted this install without your video and step by step instructions.
Thanks, dude!
Man, thank you for the kind words. I highly agree with the KDSS. That was rough right!!
You will be totally fine with 33’s. No rubbing will occur on normal use. The only rubbing that might happen is completely flexed and then cranking your wheel. But, even that, I would highly doubt. But, if you go with 34’s that would be a different story.
Thanks for the follow-up. It’s emails like this that make me keep pushing. Thank you!
After talking to Brenen, I went ahead and got a stage 2 for my 5th gen. Took it to a shop to install it since I don’t have proper lifts. The whole install took the shop roughly a day. My comments for the suspension is that it rides so much better than stock. Cruises though highways and pot holes effortlessly. I didn’t take the truck heavy off road yet beside some fire roads and it handled alot better at higher speeds.
I did want to mention to add on some shock boots to the rear shocks. Mine didn’t come with any and dirt/debris can mess up the rear shocks fast.
My truck is pretty leveled front and back without any rake.
I also added the icon track bar that they recommended for KDSS models. Not too sure if it was a necessity, but I got it anyways just in case.
This is such an educational post and video. Thanks you both Trail4R and Snail Trail 4×4 for the info! Looking forward to my build and will certainly be using this as my main reference point!
You guys rock.
Did you have to buy extra pieces because of the KDDS?
Mike,
No, KDSS does not require any additional parts for the install.
Boomer!!
Thanks man, really appreciate the comment and the support. If you have any specific questions about the Stage 2 Icon Suspension or any other stage Icon Suspension, shoot us a direct email. We can help you out and point you in the right direction. #cheers! Also, on behalf of SnailTrail4x4, he says thanks!
Damn, this is impressive. Thanks for putting this together, we are in between suspensions right now. Either going KING or Icon. After reading your other post, it looks like both suspension are a good fit for the 5th Gen. If we go Icon, this will definitely help as we are running KDSS as well. Everything is always so different on our KDSS suspension.
Jason,
Awesome, glad you like it. Hope it would at least help someone out there with the KDSS. Let us know what you decide to run with for your 4Runner and how the install turns out.
Both KING and ICON make great products, so I don’t think you will have a problem going either way. Shoot us an email after you finish your suspension, we would love to see the final product.
Thanks!
“Also, we sent Icon Vehicle Dynamics an email, called multiple times and it took them two days to get back to us.”
Hi Brenan! We hope you are enjoying this setup and getting some use out of your 4Runner. While we understand your frustration in having a small part hold up your install, please let it be know that you contacted us on a weekend, and we overnighted the part out to you as soon as your messages were received by our sales team. Should you have any issues in the future don’t hesitate to reach us right away at 951-689-4266!
Thank you,
ICON Staff
ICON HAS THE WORST CUSTOMER SERIVCE AND TERRIBLE QUALITY SHOCKS… TRUST ME I INSTALL SUSPENSION FOR A LIVING ANF HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS WITH ICON… ABOUT 4 DIFFRENT ISSUES ALL SEPERATE PROBLEMS. STAY AWAY FROM THIS COMANY
Mike. I am new to this site, and to 4Runners in general. I am fully invested into the overlanding experience. I could not decide between King or Icon, but their response provided sufficient resolve.
An ICON STAFF member chose to browse Trail4Runner.com for this article, wrote an unapologetic [PR spin] discouraging response, and vilified their sloppy quality assurance/customer relations:
“….please let it be know that you contacted us on a weekend, and we overnighted the part out to you as soon as your messages were received by our sales team.”
Please let it be know (not known). This feels like an attempt to inform other potential customers that Brenan was a liar.
… as soon as your messages were received, but the ICON STAFF member provided no dates, or times. This in contrast to Brenan’s well documented form post.
Reprehensible.
Icon,
We understand things happen. As we mentioned above, the frustration was that we called several times on Monday, to which we did not get an answer. We left a few voicemails and emailed again, to which we did not hear back. Then comes Tuesday, we called again to which we did not receive any answer. Again, we sent another email and then finally on Tuesday we got a response. No hard feelings and again, I understand that these things can happen. Thank you for sending out the replacement part, which I think is not asking a whole lot. The issue was not even with the wrong part, it was really just the response time and level of customer service. The response time was almost 48 hours into a work week, which you have to admit, is a bit long for a company of your size and caliber.
Also, just kind of a bummer because I have to pull apart the suspension again to swap in the new part. As you know, it doesn’t take 10 minutes.
In any case, we plan to upgrade many components of the suspension. So, moving forward hopefully we have a better response time if it get’s to that point.