Off-Grid Engineering / Blue Sea Auxiliary Power Outlet Panel + Voltmeter: Constant Power On the 5th Gen 4Runner
Constant power at the flick of a switch.
The 4Runner has power outlets everywhere, even a 120 volt A/C connection, but none of them work when the vehicle is off.
Sometimes all you need is just an auxiliary power outlet to charge your phone, run a fridge, or power some lights while camping.
To provide constant power, Off-Grid Engineering offers a professionally constructed wiring harness from 10 gauge wire, providing a hardline connection the battery, allowing you constant power, when you need it, even when the vehicle is off.
The kit features a highly weather-resistant Blue Sea 4356 Below deck panel with locking 12-volt cigarette outlet, dual USB outlet, LED voltmeter, on/off switch with a 15 amp fuse.
Auxillary Power Outlet Install
- Disconnect the Battery
- Remove Passenger Side Trim
- Remove Passenger Side Rear Weather Stripping & Carpet
- Remove Wheel Well Tray on Rear Cargo Area
- Run the Wire Through To Engine Bay
- 5A. Run Wire Through Passenger Side
- 5B. Feed Wire Into the Rear Cargo Area
- 5C. Run Wire From Cargo Area to Tail Light
- Modify Passenger Taillight Panel Cover
- Reconnect Battery
Find Part Used:
- Off-Grid Engineering: Blue Sea/OGE Auxiliary Power Outlet System with Voltmeter: Check Price
NOTE: The included wiring harness is designed to be attached directly to an auxiliary fuse box with a 15 amp fuse. If you do not have an auxiliary fuse box and are planning to install this accessory directly to your battery be sure to add the “inline fuse” option.
- 10mm Socket Wrench
- 14mm Socket Wrench
- Wire Chase
- Dremel Tool
- Panel Tools
- Install time: 3 hours
STEP 1. Disconnect the Battery
Always remember when working with your vehicle’s wiring, disconnect the battery.
STEP 2. Remove Passenger Side Trim
Using a panel tool (or fingers) remove the passenger side front threshold.
Continue by removing the passenger side kick well cover by unscrewing the plastic nut, gently pull away and disengage the factory clips.
Remove the passenger side rear threshold with a panel tool (or fingers). Then, remove the seat belt trim cover as well as the 14mm seat belt anchor bolt.
Gently pull away from the passenger side weather stripping.
Gently pull away and remove the passenger side B-pillar trim.
Unfasten the grey and white carpet clips with a panel tool or flathead screwdriver.
STEP 3. Remove Passenger Side Rear Weather Stripping & Carpet
Remove the 14mm bolt holding in the middle row passenger side seat belt.
Then, gently pull away the rear weather stripping closest to the door latch. Next, you’ll need to carefully pull the carpet from underneath the interior trim piece.
Then, pull the trim piece away from the body, allowing yourself extra room to run the wire into the cargo area.
STEP 4. Remove Wheel Well Tray on Rear Cargo Area
Pull up on the passenger side wheel well tray, breaking the internal clips.
This will be the easiest way to run the wire within the body to the tail light. The tray will still be able to clip back into place on its own after.
STEP 5. Run the Wire Through To Engine Bay
Locate the rubber grommet on the passenger’s side of the firewall in the engine bay.
Then, feed a wire first though the grommet, attached with the female ends of the power wire.
TIP: Dish soap can be used as a lubricant to help this wire feed through the grommet hole.
STEP 5A. Run Wire Through Passenger Side
Run the wire along the passenger side of the vehicle, in the door channel, towers the rear of the vehicle.
Next, clip the wire down in place utilizing the grey factory clips.
STEP 5B. Feed Wire Into the Rear Cargo Area
Run the wire between and though the plastic interior trim and the body of the vehicle.
The wire should emerge above the wheel wells in the cargo area.
STEP 5C. Run Wire From Cargo Area to Tail Light
Using fish tape (I used coat hanger wire taped together) feed the wire through the tail light access panel towards the front of the vehicle. The wire will emerge through the cavity above the wheel well.
STEP 6. Modify Passenger Taillight Panel Cover
Using the provided guide from Blue Sea, measure the placement of the cutout on the taillight panel cover.
After the placement is finalized, use a sharpie to mark the cutline on the panel.
Drill out the (4) pre-marked holes in the guide.
Cut out the mounting location into the taillight panel using a Dremel, then file clean.
Attached is the (4) screws to hold the panel into the cover, and connect both positive and negative terminals of the OGE wiring harness to the Blue Sea panel.
STEP 7. Reconnect Battery
Before reconnecting the battery, make sure the eyelet connectors are secured to the terminal connectors of the vehicles battery harness.
Anyone can purchase a Blue Sea auxiliary panel with a voltmeter, however, what makes this a professional product is Off-Grid Engineering’s wiring harness.
I was very impressed with the quality of all the connections and cabling used to build the auxiliary power harness.
Even the length is cut to perfectly (21’) to complete its run from the battery, front driver’s side, to the passenger’s side all the way to the rearmost point of the cargo area.
Although this Blue Sea aux panel can be mounted anywhere. I chose to mount it the passenger side taillight cover.
This gives me the flexibility to not only cut the part outside my vehicle but allows me the option to cheaply replace a small cover, if I decide to remove it from the vehicle in the future.
With the aux panel high up high, and to the furthest corner of the cargo area it is least likely to be blocked and is easily accessible.
The harness has ample length to connect to the battery on the driver’s side, and the 10 gauge wire gives me the confidence of running power over such a long distance.
With running a fridge in my vehicle this mod became a must and Off-Grid Engineering’s wiring harness made that project simple and easy for me to complete.
Now, I’m able to power my fridge, charge my phone or possibly run solar back into the system with this vehicle independent direct connection.
Off-Grid Engineering (OGE) was a great help during this process and promptly responded, over Instagram (@offgridengineering) to any questions that I had during this installation.
With OGE you get a quality product, as well as get access to their amazing customer service, and installation know-how.
Just installed one on my 2017. easy install, 3 hours time. very nice addition.
Hi Frank- thanks for the write-up — one thing that appears to be omitted from the article is the issue of not being able to rotate the voltmeter display 90 degrees when wanting to mount/orient the panel vertically, as us 4Runners would want to. Because that panel hole is not perfectly round (it has two sides with squared edges), the shaft of the voltmeter only rotates in 180 degree increments, meaning unless I’m missing something about being able to freely rotate the head of the voltmeter, the only way to solve for mounting vertically is to use a cutting tool to round off the squared sides of the panel hole for the voltmeter to freely rotate to whatever orientation we’d like.
Is that indeed what you did? If so, may want to throw that into the article.
Late to this thread but that’s what I did. Didn’t have my Dremel with me at the time, but used my pocket knife to round off the squared portion of the housing so I can rotate 90 degrees and have it sit vertically as pictured in this thread. The locking ring on the back is strong enough to hold it in place on the housing in this position.