This marks a pretty big milestone for Trail4Runner.com, our first official 6th Gen 4Runner installation guide and review. I can’t believe it’s been over 10 years since we started Trail4Runner.com. And now, here it comes, the 6G 4Runner. I’ve built an awesome relationship with so many of you over the years via the 5th Gen 4Runner, and I’m hoping you guys stick around for the 6G.
Love it or hate it, the 6G is here to stay. I recently wrote a post on the Hybrid Vs. Non-Hybrid, and the new generation 4Runner really is an amazing platform. We plan on taking the new 6G as far as we’ve taken some of our 5G builds in the past, and maybe even further. I hope my 5G fam sticks around to enjoy the ride.
That said, today we’re installing the new ARB Brushless Compressor (got ours from Mudify.com) using the Slee Off-Road compressor bracket on our 2025 TRD ORP Hybrid 4Runner.
You guys know the name SLEE. They have been around since before the days of Trail4R.com and feature some of the most practical, innovative products out there. Let’s take a look at their new bracket + ECU relocation for the 6th Gen 4Runner, 4th Gen Tacoma, and 250 Land Cruiser.
Find It Online:
- Slee Off-Road Multi Mount Compressor Bracket (2025+): Check Price
- New ARB Brushless Twin Compressor: Check Price
Table Of Contents
Product Overview
This bracket fits a wide variety of products, including the ARB single and both twin compressors (classic and brushless). It’s a simple bolt-in stainless steel mount with the brushless compressor bolt pattern (plus many other patterns for other accessories), and all the hardware is included. You can use this tray for a wide variety of 12V accessories like switch systems, RED ARC accessories, Blue Sea Systems 12V stuff, and many other components. The bracket relocates the factory ECU and the TCU (transmission module), providing a flat surface to mount whatever accessories you want.
SLEE does recommend using the ARB manifold when using the ARB pump kit, which is technically recommended for all twin-compressor setups; however, we’re just running an 18″ line from the compressor to a QD ARB coupling. We’ve run setups like this many times in the past and it’s been fine but if you want to do it the “right” way, then grab the ARB manifold. The manifold helps to prevent the compressor from overheating when running the ARB compressors at the peak 100% duty cycle specs.
The 4th Gen Tacoma and 6th Gen 4Runner both require aftermarket hood struts due to hood prop interference.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN – DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL ON YOUR BATTERY.
Step 1. Remove ECU Bracket
Start by removing the ECU bracket. There are four 10mm bolts holding the ECU bracket in place. Then remove the ECU from the bracket.
Retain the 4 x M6 ECU factory hardware for reassembly.
Once the bracket is removed, you can disconnect the ECU.
Step 2. Remove TCU Bracket
Disconnect the TCU from the bracket and unplug it. This hardware will not be reused.
Step 3. Insert All Clip Nuts
Install all the clip nuts into the rectangular holes on the brackets. The clips of the clip nuts go onto the longer sides of a hole. This ensures proper fitment and adjustability. There are 14 x 1/4” Clip Nuts. Install all of these clip nuts now before moving forward with the install.
Bolt the ECU to the ECU side mount bracket using the bolts removed from the factory bracket.
Step 4. Loosely Assemble Bracket (3/4″ Hardware)
Dry-fit the bracket using the 1/4” x 3/4” bolts threaded into the clip nuts. Once assembled, check that the assembly is square and then tighten the ECU bolts. This is a dry fit only. You will need to disconnect the ECU from the base bracket in the coming steps.
For these steps, use the 1/4” x 3/4” flange bolts. It’s important to note that there are 1″ long bolts. Do not use those yet.
Step 5. Loosely Assemble ECU To Bracket
Here is what the bracket looks like with the ECU temporarily in place.
Step 6. Mount Small Brackets
Mount the two smaller leg brackets in place.
Step 7. Mount ECU Base Bracket
Now, disassemble the dry-fit bracket with the ECU and mount the ECU bracket base in place.
Tighten the four M8 bolts that hold the BASE SUPPORTS to the inner fender.
Step 8. Install ECU Bracket
Now you can slide the ECU into place, plug it back in, and line up the holes for the next step. Make sure your ECU harness is not getting caught on any edges. Zip-tie the harness to another harness below or to the desired location away from the bracket.
Step 9. Install Top Mount Bracket (1″ Hardware)
Bolt the adapter flange to the ECU side mounts with the 1/4” x 1” bolts threaded into the clip nuts on the base support legs. Now tighten all 6 bolts.
Step 10. Clip OE Wiring Harness
Slee Off-Road provides slots in the bracket to re-clip your factory harnesses. Nice touch!
Step 11. Mount TCU Bracket
Install the TCU using 1/4” flange bolts into the clip nuts. Route the cable as shown above. When installed, the harness can be zip-tied to the holes on the mounts to ensure that it stays secure and does not chafe on the edge of the bracket. Torque all 1/4” bolts to 8 ft-lbs.
Step 12. Mount ARB Compressor
Because the compressor will potentially collide with the windshield washer reservoir inlet, make sure to mount the compressor bracket with enough clearance. Double-check your mount points and clearance before fully bolting the bracket down.
Step 13. NPT – JIC Fitting
Wrap the NPT end with some sealant tape and thread it into either one of the provided ARB ports. I choose to install it on the bottom.
Step 14. JIC Fitting Elbow
Install your JIC-4 elbow.
Step 15. Install Pressure Switch
ARB provides an NPT pressure switch. Install that and orient your prongs to the desired position. You can see mine in the final photos section.
Step 16. JIC ARB Coupling
The JIC-4 ARB QD (quick disconnect) fitting comes with a locking collar – unlike the NPT ARB QD fitting. The JIC-4 ARB coupling is preferred for this bracket. It allows you to tighten the coupling to the bracket much more easily than the NPT fitting.
Step 17. JIC ARB Braided Line
To secure a wrench on the lower collar, insert a QD fitting into the ARB coupling for the top collar to raise slightly. With the top collar raised, you will have a bit more room to fit a thin wrench or some vice grips.
Step 18. ARB On/Off Switch
Now we need to wire the switch.
Wire the ARB brushless compressor switch as pictured above.
Step 19. Cover Unused Lines
If you’re not using a front/rear locker, cover your locker leads with a piece of braided sleeve and Tessa tape.
Step 20. Zip Tie Harness To Cutouts
The great thing about the SLEE compressor bracket is that it provides zip-tie points for all your wiring harnesses.
You can see my ARB rocker switch in the loom and the locker switches (not used) in the braided sleeve.
Step 21. Ignition & Dash Illumination Leads
Run the ignition and dash illumination leads along the main harness into the fuse box. Remove the plastic clip that locks the harness into place and covers the end of the fuse box.
Step 22. Add-A-Fuse Slots
Once the harness cover (fuse box end cap) is removed, locate your desired add-a-fuse locations and finish this portion of the install. I used all waterproof connectors and heat shrink to finish the add-a-fuse tap leads.
- Red/Yellow Wire to IGN Fuse
- Blue/White Wire to AUX NO.4
Refer to 6G4R forum for fuse box locations & diagrams: https://6thgen4runner.com/threads/2025-6th-gen-4runner-fuse-box-location-replacement-steps.585/
Step 23. Add-A-Fuse Final
Replace the fuse box end caps/harness cover. Super clean leads straight into the fuse box, and you’re still able to use your fuse box lid from the factory. No drilling, nothing sketchy. I really like this about the 6th Gen fuse box.
Step 24. Negative Terminal
Wrap your negative leads in heat-shrink and braided sleeve, then add a new end terminal.
Step 25. Switch Harness Lead
Finish the installation with your ground and switch leads as seen above.
Step 26. Positive Lead & Fuse
Run your power lead over to the passenger side in a braided sleeve and heat shrink, then connect the lead to the ARB positive fuse.
Step 27. Positive Lead To Terminal
You may have to remove your airbox to zip-tie a few leads in place. You will also need to remove a portion of the fuse box on the driver’s side and slightly modify the end cap so it can seat back in place properly.
Final Thoughts
This is the only compressor bracket on the market right now that’s built specifically for the 6th Gen 4Runner, 4th Gen Tacoma, and new 250 Series Land Cruiser… and it works for the hybrid and non-hybrid models. The fitment is perfect all the way around, and the clip nut hardware provided is very convenient (no messing with nuts, bolts, and washers in tight spaces). The install instructions are super clear. Slee provides a very detailed PDF install guide for the first portion of this install.
It’s not the cheapest bracket out there, but you’re paying for ease of install on this one, stainless hardware, and a design that solves multiple problems at once with these new gens: ECU relocation, clean compressor or switch mounting, and organized cable management.
Slee killed it. Very nice bracket.
Also worth noting: excellent customer service from Slee. This was the first time I spoke with them on the phone about general mods, install stuff, and parts. The knowledge and response time they bring to the table are pretty refreshing. With so many random dropship companies and resellers in the industry now, it’s nice to know you can actually talk to someone about the details. If you want next-level detailed information when it comes to phone support, call Slee. These guys have an insane wealth of knowledge.
