
Perry Parts has created something brand new to the industry… A modular bump stop, offering people the opportunity to modify and scale their setup as the build grows and changes.
Their previous-generation MK2 bump stops were designed to be a solid OEM upgrade at a great price point. Perry changed the game by building these bumps from specialized materials with 3D printing. But don’t be misled, this isn’t your amateur desktop 3D printer that does the work. Thousands of them have been tested for years and concept is beyond proven now.

The brand new MK3s took it to a new level and implemented modularity that we haven’t seen before. A system of base plates, spacers, compression stacks, inserts, and extenders. No more one size fits all, but a level of fine tuning and higher performance.
These feature a Yoshimura Polyhedra inspired design that distributes stress evenly and improves compression. Its new geometric shape also eliminates the potential for buckling by providing predictable energy dissipation. The internal chamber is now 4 times bigger than its predecessor, increasing damping. Perry Parts thought of it all, quite frankly. They rigorously tested and concluded that it had a 500K-cycle life with no performance loss. This gives us the peace of mind that these will last as long as our Toyotas. Also, the MK3 comes with an 8-year warranty.
Perry Parts has been in the off-road market for 4+ years, and they continue to elevate their parts and the market. They provide their customers with high-grade 3D-printed parts and consistently push the bar. They use pellet extruders to directly 3D-print using injection-molding urethane. It is refreshing to see a company that makes a mold, perfects it, breaks it, and creates something even better. The MK3 bump stops are just that; they can now be spec’d to your liking. Doesn’t matter if you have long travel suspension or a daily driver that doubles as a weekend overlander.
Table Of Contents
MK2 Vs. MK3

Ask yourself this… Am I going to continue upgrading my truck and suspension setup?
If you know without a doubt that you will mainly use your 4Runner as a daily, the MK2 is a solid choice. Proven performance, super affordable price.
If you have a goal of a moderately to completely built adventure rig that will benefit from flexibility and demand something even better, the MK3 is for you.
Don’t get me wrong, plenty of people have run the MK2 version hard with positive results. But all the added features of the MK3 make it undeniably better. Like you often hear, buy once, cry once. If you’re not on a budget, the new ones are well worth it as (effectively) a lifetime part.
Features & Specs

What’s In Each MK3 Box?
- Pair of front or rear compression stacks
- Base plates (with receiver for stacks)
- Hardware
- Lubricant
Optional Accessories/Add-Ons
- Stacks: different compression heights for different lift types and geometries
- Inserts: easy to swap open-cell inserts for changing stiffness
- Extenders: adjust for height in 1″ increments, up to 4″
Installation

Tools Required:
- Socket wrench
- Pipe wrench
- Rust penetrant spray (optional for stubborn bolts)
Rear

Looking at the image above, you don’t need to be an expert to see how much bigger (and ultimately better) the MK3 is over factory. They literally tower over them. Every part is noticeably beefed up.
The install time on the rear should take no more than an hour. Fun fact… Perry Parts took it a step further and had a QR code linking you to the installation guide imprinted on the base plate. I simply slid underneath the rear of the truck and proceeded to get them on my 4Runner. If you don’t want to get down and dirty, you can always jack the rig up and remove the tires for easier access; this will ultimately take a little longer.
You begin by removing the old bump stops with a socket wrench. Depending on how old your truck is, you will probably need some elbow grease to get them off. I know mine required some extra force to take off. That is probably the only reason why I would’ve wanted to remove the tire.

Once you remove the old bump stops, you’re ready to assemble your new ones.
First, connect the metal base plate and compression stack receiving end with the provided hardware. Don’t overtighten it. Then, you can install the whole base onto the frame. The brackets are shaped to correspond to either the driver or passenger side and are clearly labeled.

The bracket’s curvature should face inward towards the spring. If installed incorrectly, they will affect your suspension because the bracket interferes with the spring.
Once the base is on, lubricate threads on everything and screw the compression stack to the frame mount until it’s nice and snug. Pretty straightforward!
Front

Installation for the front bump stops will take just as much time as the rear, but can be a little quicker.
Start by lifting the rig and removing the tires. You can also install without lifting the rig, but it’s much more difficult because you have less room to work. As you raise the rig, the lower control arms droop, giving you ample space. You will need a pipe wrench to remove the OEM bump stop.

Once removed, screw the base of the new bump stop on by hand, then use a socket to finish tightening it.

Once again, apply the provided lubricant to make it easier to screw on. As you screw on the stack to the base, make sure it’s fully seated.
Off-Road Performance

Perry Parts thoroughly tested the MK3, putting it through hell and back in this year’s 2026 King of the Hammers event. Their all-new design definitely worked exactly like it was supposed to. It took a beating and kept performing.

If you’ve ever bottomed out your truck, you know how harsh and uncomfortable it can be. Not to mention the potential for damage. With the MK3s, it’s the closest I’ve felt to a bottomless suspension feeling. They really improve on the compression damping on big hits. The ride is noticeably smoother. They also help reduce noise going into the cabin and allow you to focus on other things that might actually fail. During high-speed compression, the bump stops immediately return to their original shape, supporting the longevity of your shock absorbers. After each trail run, I inspect them for any wear and tear; they are solid. No signs of deformities, cracking, nothing. I have yet to test them during winter conditions to see if cold temps affect performance, but I have high hopes. Especially compared to the stiffness of OEM rubber.
Final Thoughts

After running the MK3 bumpstops for a few months, I realized that I should have upgraded them the moment the new suspension went in. They are, in fact, one of my favorite mods – an easy install that benefits the 4Runner long term. Their performance on and off the trails is a night-and-day difference from OEM bump stops.

Having the 8-year no-questions-asked warranty is a plus; knowing me, I’ll still have the 4Runner. I recently upgraded to 35” tires from 33s; I am looking forward to seeing how the MK3s perform and handle. For those of you on the fence, know that Perry Parts backs its parts and, most importantly, rigorously engineers and tests them before releasing them to market.

I am going in a different direction with Your Water Port 5 Gallon Tank.
I just ordered the same tank for my setup. I want to mount it vertically up top on my Gobi rack with the Platform Rack Mount with Universal Mount Plate Bundle, wedging it between my iKamper Mini and my Pelican Bx55s cargo case to use while overlanding.
I can see that you have yours mounted on the rear driver’s side molie panel.
Are you concerned with the weight on the glass, or is that really not an issue?
Do you have any issues with the hose or pressuring the tank up?
Also, how do you like using the 5-gallon Water Port tank in general?
Thank you kindly for your feedback on your 5th Gen 4Runner setup.
Best regards,